Driving a Tacoma around the world

Georgia


Mountain camp, Stepantsminda

Georgia was a fascinating and easy place to travel. You could feel the unique blend of historic influences from past occupations by the Persian, Turkish and Russian empires alongside European culture. The country had stunning dramatic mountains in the north, the charming and cosmopolitan capital of Tblisi, and a lush wine region in the south (Dawn was happy). The hiking and wild camping was spectacular, and the cultural sites intriguing, many stemming from early Christianity. The people are independent, maybe a little bit gruff, but once you got under their outer skin, a delight to talk to.


Our nearly 2000 km route through Georgia

We entered Georgia after a slightly stressful rush across Turkey - long driving days without much of a break because we had to get the truck out before it ran out of time and could possibly get impounded. All this to say, we were happy to enter Georgia and crash in a seaside hotel in Batumi.


Our first night in Georgia, long border crossing from Turkey so we landed in a sweet hotel in Batumi - luxury. (But free for us on credit card points)


Public art on the promenade in Batumi


Beautiful architecture in the old town square of Batumi. It was hot so Andy took the opportunity to stroll into the fountain.


Beautiful old facades in Batumi


The Georgian language was a complete mystery to us - we have never seen anything like it. Google Translate was not at its best here.

After our relaxing hotel night it was time to camp again, we worked our way up the coast to a paid campground (our first in a very long time!). We had lots of company with Russian tourists beating the heat.


Warm welcome at a campground north of Batumi - just us and mostly holiday makers from Russia


This would be the alternate universe Instagram photo that makes it look like we are alone.


Adding our Georgia sticker to our chaotic sticker wall - 78th country in the truck! But who is counting . . .

Our first foray into the Georgian mountains was heading north into the Svaneti region anchored by the village of Mestia. The roads were rough but doable - we stuck to the often broken and potholed pavement rather than venturing onto the rugged 4x4 routes.


Driving along the beautiful river gorge on the way to the Svaneti region





Pealed off on a brushy lane to what we hoped would be a great wild camping spot


It was! Amazing grassy field with mountain views, the only visitors were a few horses


With the bonus of a nearby hike to Georgia's tallest waterfall


Hiking along the glacial melt river





Crossing the sketchy bridge


Taking in the snow capped mountains


Shudgra Waterfall - biggest in Georgia, maybe not as big as some of the Icelandic ones, but idyllic and private


Another beautiful Svaneti wild camp - this one on the way to a glacier hike


Another sketchy bridge! (consequences on this one a little more drastic with gaping holes down to a serious fall but we made it)


Chaladi Glacier - worth the hike!


Village of Mestia - with its ancient watchtowers still standing

One thing we quickly learned about driving in Georgia is that domestic animals completely owned the roads. Cows, horses, sheep and pigs used the roads alongside traffic. Respect for vehicles was non existent.


Cows glaring balefully at us as we dared to want to cross their bridge


Don't even think of trying to disturb the napping pig

Having successfully navigated the farm animal obstacle course with no casualties, we came down from the mountains for our first major cultural site visit in Georgia - and probably our favorite-Vardzia, a cave monastery and city carved out of the cliffs in the 12th century. The site was also built during the reign of Georgia’s famous King Tamar - one of the most powerful monarchs in the country and also a woman (the word “king” in Georgian is not gender based) She governed over the most extensive territory that Georgia ever held, uniting principalities and developing a national identity based in Christianity.


Parked across from the cave complex at Vardzia


Homes, places of worship, food storage, libraries and wine cellars all carved into the cliffs


Walking our way up the cliffs to explore


The carved rooms are immense








Beautiful frescos in the church


Found a great riverside camp after a busy cultural day


Private enough to use our outside shower! Andy saving you all from the x-rated version.

Entering our fifth year on the road, we still try to maintain some basic level of fitness, mostly through walking. If we are not heading to a hiking or walking destination, We scan our daily route looking for trails or walking paths. These random stops have created some enduring memories along the way - opportunistic encounters with villagers or cultural activities along local walking paths. On this day we stopped by Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park since Dawn saw some trails on the Gaia app we use for finding hikes. We ended up on a two hour jaunt through gorgeous forest and found out it was actually the first national park in the Caucuses and one of the largest in Europe - we barely scratched the surface on our drive by hike.


Hiking break in Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park

Our final stop that day was the base of the road up Albano Pass - an iconic Georgia scenic drive. The day we had planned to drive to the top dawned rainy and cloudy - not a good omen.


River camp on the way up Albano pass


Road to Albano pass - mostly single track gravel


One hour in and Dawn is not feeling it


Where it is paved the road is literally dropping off the cliffside


Definitely beautiful though

Well, the fact that we have no picture at the top should tell you something . . . We arrived at the top of the mountains socked in by blowing clouds, barely able to see the edge of the parking space. We had planned to head down the other side to Omalo to hike but in the end we were cold, tired and not feeling like the weather was going to cooperate so turned back. Some days are like that. Even in Georgia.


Fresh marking on the hood map as we enter year five


Impossible to imagine we have been living together in a truck camper for over four years. We often say to each other that neither of us could imagine doing it with anyone else. Not every day is unicorns and roses but we are still thriving.

The weather continued to challenge our hiking plans so we decided to take a wine country break. Georgians are proud to claim being “the birthplace of wine” based on evidence from archeological sites (verified by scientists from the US). We later found out that the Armenians beg to differ. But either way the culture of wine making in Georgia is ancient, culturally ingrained and unique.

It was on our way to the vineyards that we encountered blinker-gate and Andy’s first legitimate ticket in years. Police were hiding along a stretch of highway which made a logical turn, although you could have gone straight. We were issued a $15 ticket because he did not use his turn signal and watched as others were similarly pulled over - which at least made us feel like they weren’t targeting tourists. We were told we would have to go to a bank and pay before we left the country. Luckily we did, as at the border it came up connected to our license plate and they wanted to see our receipt of payment. It was interesting to us that in the course of the routine traffic stop in the middle of the day they had Andy blow into a breathalyzer (which he had never done before.) It was enough of a caution for him to drink lemonade at the winery - not a hardship for him since he is not a fan. Dawn happily drank his share.


Visiting the vinyards





Touring the history of wine at Shumi Winery - ancient clay pot - Georgians bury them in the ground for the fermentation process


Map depicting Georgia spreading wine making to the rest of the world

Still finding ways to entertain ourselves that didn’t involve trekking in a rainstorm, next we stopped by the enchanting old town of Sighnaghi, perched on a hill in Kakheti.


Wandering the old streets of Sighnaghi


Hill top view of idyllic Sighnaghi


Complete with ancient castle walls and turrets





The truck always looks a little out of place in old villages

We stopped at one more cliff monastery - Davit Gareja. Arriving early allowed us to wander on our own, high fiving each other as we left the parking lot as tour buses started rolling in.


Davit Gareja ancient rock monastery, carved into the cliffs



Looking down on the solitary truck in the monastery parking lot

Then time for city life! As we usually do in cities, we booked into a hotel in Tbilisi so that we could easily explore on foot. (There are times we actually miss those ginormous urban campgrounds common at the end of metro lines in big cities in Europe - they definitely make it easy even if they are not the most aesthetic places.)

Tbilisi matched the country of Georgia in its intriguing blend of history and cultures. The city center held contemporary malls, regal 18th century government and museum buildings, old wooden courtyards filled with families living on topsy turvy balconies, family run bakeries and gourmet cuisine. Every corner held whimsical art surprises and graffiti depicted the country’s recent internal conflict over whether to look to the EU or Russia for fiscal and military support. Young people we talked to were clear that they were ready to align with the EU. But there was also fear with Russian tanks mustering at the border and very recent armed conflict in the north with a separatist state wanting to leave Georgia and become aligned with Russia. Similar to Armenia, it was a country on the brink of change. But the city of Tbilisi felt vibrant, dynamic, and filled with hope.

We also loved the food in Georgia and had some of the best of it in Tbilisi! The bread was extraordinary - so many varieties filled with everything from beans to meat to cheese. Meat dumplings called khinkali quickly became a favorite as did their flavorful eats and stews.

Tbilisi may not have the glamor and flashiness of Paris or Prague, but it has a simple understated charm and an equal depth of history when you take the time to explore and understand its past.


Our favorite Georgian cafe in Tbilisi


Amazing chicken - flavored with grapes


Khinkali and yummy cheese bread


Classic inner courtyard with wooden balconies and washing lines


Fresh bread, its what's for dinner


Beautifully carved ornamental wood everywhere in the old courtyards


Old streets of Tbilisi


What looks like an old clock tower is actually a contemporary sculpture


The Bridge of Peace, symbolizing unity and harmony


Visiting the rug shop - yes, we did buy one, a contemporary Georgian one made in a nearby village




Wine ice cream - only in Georgia


Parked outside our guest house in Tbilisi


Tbilisi Opera House, founded in 1851


Mural painted on a private residence in old town Tbilisi


Street art depicting the Silk Road history


Dawn's favorite place - tiny bakery making loaves of crusty fresh bread for about $.30 each


More mid 19th century architecture from the days of the Russian empire. Georgia was ruled by the Russian Empire and then the Soviet Union for most of the 19th and 20th centuries, finally declaring independence in 1991.

We left Tbilisi freshly showered, laundry done and truck re-supplied with food, gas and water.


Another along the road walking break - this one taking the back road towards a hilltop fort.


Side trip out of Georgia into Armenia and back (separate blog), nice modern border


Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Mtskheta


River side wild camp along the way, just us and the cows

Truso Valley ended up being a favorite spot for us. It was one of those magical places to camp where the stunning scenery, the quiet and even the drive in all made for a fantastic exeprience.


Setting off to hike in Truso Valley

Initially, we were not sure what the road into the valley would be like so we parked in the hiking parking lot and set off on foot to explore.


Abandoned stone houses in Truso Valley


Walking along the river


Stunning hills - so green! So far the road is easy and local taxis are roaring by us.


So we decided the camping had to be better in the valley than the hiking parking lot so went back for the truck


Andy taking advantage of the shallow water crossing to wash the truck


Easy road! No problem.


Found our spot! Beautiful views in Truso Valley


One of our favorite camps - no one around after sunset

Grocery shopping in Georgia was easy, markets were huge and well stocked (even if reading labels and figuring out ingredients was sometimes challenging). Our current mini crisis - we were out of 3 of our favorite 12 spices. Garlic, onion and red pepper flakes go in pretty much everything we make.


Oh no - out of our favorite spices. But Carrefour to the rescue and we were all sorted out.


Once again able to make Andy's favorite meal - some kind of pasta with some kind of red pasta meat sauce. And cheese on top.


Random art in the mountains

Our final stop in Georgia was the Kazbegi region, anchored by the town of Stepantsminda with its iconic mountain vistas.


Even with the scaffolding the backdrop to this ancient Gergeti Trinity Church is stunning





Found our spot to camp!


Exploring the trails above town


Ever grateful to be doing this together


View from camp - it really does not get any better





And a final stop in Georgia - Dawn found one last single baker shop for her last loaf of Georgian bread (she still misses that bread)


Filling up at a free water source - preparing to cross into Russia the next morning (more on that decision in our Armenia blog)


Waterfall hike at the end of the day


Last camp in Georgia - we had been heading for a site closer to the border but it had been shut down due to border control so opted for a trailhead parking area complete with graffiti. Still mountain views though! It was also laundry night.

That’s a wrap for Georgia! It lived up to it’s reputation of having gorgeous mountains and a fascinating culture. Next we continue our route east, a little nervous about crossing into Russia and transiting as quickly as possible (only 2 nights). Driving in an American plated vehicle, we are not sure what to expect but are continuing on a wing and a prayer. Thank you for reading and following along with us.

 

Kazakhstan


The Silk Roads
Driving the Silk Roads had been a lifetime dream of ours. There is a mystique that surrounds the idea of retracing the ancient steps of these early explorers, merchants and warriors. We listened to historical accounts in the truck as we learned about the early East-West trading routes, what they meant to the world, seeding centuries of conflict and the beginning of commercial globalization. The names of Marco Polo and Genghis Khan evoked exotic images of camel trains loaded with silk and spices making their way across the desert. We could not wait to take our own journey along these venerable routes.


Our 3 week, 3600 km route thru Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan

The trip was well worth the wait. Each country we visited had its own personality and culture, but there were also many similarities shared by the countries often lazily referred to as “the Stans.” People were uniformly welcoming, curious and hospitable. Although little English was spoken, especially among the 40+ populace whose second language is Russian, people still wanted to communicate with us - using a lot of universal hand gestures and often Google Translate. Food and resources were easy to find on this first part of the route and the general lack of people in vast landscapes made wild camping easy. We paid for water once, but found clean free sources the rest of the month. We never paid for camping. Similar to the Arabian Peninsula, our expenses plummeted, down to an average of $60 per day for the two of us, as our main expense, gas, was generally cheap and food was less expensive than most other places we have traveled. Our route meandered in and out of countries, but we have separated each country in the blogs to make it easier (for us!).

Kazakhstan
Our first country, Kazakhstan, was in many ways what we expected of the area- initially lots of hot dry steppes. But as we made our way north, we were surprised by the transition to lush fields, forested national parks with lakes and rivers and eventually, mountains.


Our first two-humped camel siting! The Bactrian camel - native to the Central Asian steppes.

Our entry involved a (very) long border crossing - something we would get used to. Even when the line seemed short (9-10 cars) - border crossings in the region often took 4-5 hours. Processes were unclear and confusing and, as we were unable to speak local languages, took some deciphering. Luckily there were often kind locals who took pity on us and showed us the way. Usually we felt like we were on some kind of confusing bureaucratic scavenger hunt as we would be handed a slip of paper that required multiple officials in different buildings and offices to stamp. We learned to clarify upfront how many stamps we needed before we could leave so we would not be sent back. Car searches were relatively thorough and involved drug sensing dogs and often X ray scans. Luckily we do not carry any contraband so there was no stress involved, just a lot of patience needed.

Although we had a Carnet de Passage at this point, we did not use it in the Stans. Kazakhstan customs issued us a Temporary Import document for the truck, and as US citizens we did not need visas so paperwork was free. We were also easily able to buy auto insurance ($40 for a month) from a booth at the border.


Camped just over the border into Kazakhstan from Russia - woke up to "wild" life all around.

It was time to re-supply the truck so we stopped off in Atyrau, a pleasant city on the Ural river. The city displayed much of the Soviet era architecture common in the region as the Russian and then the Soviet empire maintained primary control from the late 18th century through 1991.


Walking the riverfront promenade


Ural riverfront - high rises and fishermen

Grocery shopping took much longer here. The language and alphabet is completely unknown to us. Although some words and pictures were intuitive, we have learned in the past to doublecheck with Google Translate (Dawn has been known to accidentally buy sour cream instead of milk for her coffee - a disaster that spoiled her morning in more than one way).


Kazakh spice aisle - very confusing for Dawn


As was trying to figure out how to weigh the produce!


Grateful for pictures - but it still took Dawn 30 minutes to accurately weigh 10 bags of produce - and she got two wrong to the amusement of the register clerk. (One picture of potatoes looks a lot like another)


The bakery items looked fabulous but it was a case of buying mystery fillings


MANY varieties of sausages and hot dogs. . . .all tasting pretty much the same

Grocery cabinets and fridge full, we made our way into the great empty steppes. Camping was no problem - just drive as far away from the main road as you feel like.


Our first proper night wild camping in the steppe


The next morning Andy decides it is time to change the oil


Oops - picked up a screw in the tire somewhere along the way but this kind tire shop owner fixed it for us - and then went ahead and rotated the tires.


Andy's new friends at the tire shop. The constant dusty winds in the region meant many people opted for facial scarves.


The first time we have paid for water in 4 years (last time was eastern Romania on our way to Moldova). Since it was the middle of the desert, we did not mind joining the commercial water tanker at the filling station and paying the equivalent of $1 to fill our tank.

We had researched in advance and learned that road safety in Kazakhstan was serious business. Police are out and patrolling, equal opportunity fines are applied for any offender who exceeds the speed limit or passes on a solid line. Andy was scrupulous about following the rules and we never had a problem. (Unlike the previous week in Russia where corrupt police attempted to shake us down for $300 for a made up “offense.” In that case, Andy refused to pay, joked around with them and built camaraderie and eventually they let us go). What we had heard about the police in Kazakhstan was true in our experience, they are strict but honest and even handed in applying the rules.


When there wasn't real police there was fake police


And fake farm animals

Our first cultural experience in Kazakhstan was visiting Turkestan. The beautiful architecture was awe inspiring. The Persian inspired tile work, Arabic script and signature blue dye originally imported from Mongolia was magnificent.


Mausoleum of Khawaja Ahmed Yasawi, Turkic poet and Sufi mystic, commissioned in 1389 by Timur.


The back side was equally impressive but never finished


Common road view in Kazakhstan

Then we were back on the road, covering some distance. After a few days in the dry steppes, we were ready for some green. We drove through the city of Almaty (modern but lots of traffic!) and made our way out to Ile Alatau National Park.


Visiting the Sunkar Falconry Center to learn more about this ancient regional art, humans working closely with birds of prey to hunt.




After visiting the falcon center (a little gimmicky, but still interesting) we camped inside the national park along the river. There are convenient flat spots along the river, free to camp and cement pads for cooking safely.


Riverside camp in Ile-Alatau National Park


Valley views along the hike to the lake

We decided to hike in to Lake Almaty - a classic hike in the park. Much of it was along a paved road servicing local communities





A SIDEBAR- SECURING OUR INDIAN VISAS
We are very grateful to the ongoing information sharing in a variety of Whatsapp and Facebook travel forums we belong to. We were getting new information that the Indian Embassy in Islamabad was becoming more tricky to work with in securing visas. This had always been our plan so as we heard of people waiting for weeks for visas in Islamabad and often being declined we decided to figure out a Plan B. As US Citizens, it was relatively simple for us to apply online for one-year multi-entry visas. The trick was that these “E-visas” were not valid for a land border entry, only for airports. However, once you fly into India and have the visa stamped into your passport, you are then allowed to enter at a land border.

So we flew in one day, roundtrip from Almaty to Delhi, Indian E-visas in hand to get them stamped in our passports so that we could continue our journey east.


It was a 3am start in Almaty but there were already lines, luckily for Dawn there was also already coffee for sale


Previewing the mountains we would later drive through by air


And an 8 hour layover at the airport in Delhi before we could return. Dawn trying her best to look alert, somedays even coffee doesn't work.

The next leg of our journey figured out, we returned to exploring Kazakhstan’s beautiful natural sites..


Wild camp along the way - tucked into the trees


It was fall and shepherds were busy bringing livestock down from the mountains to more temperate climates before winter comes


We shared the road


Our next stop was beautiful Turgen Gorge, it felt far removed from the vast steppes and reminded us of our home in Oregon with rolling hills, trees and beautiful rivers. Infrastructure was minimal but we used our Gaia app to find a trail and set off.


Beginning of Turgen Gorge hike. Sign was impossible for us to read, but it made us feel like we were going the right way.





Sketchy bridge. We like the fact that in this region a high level of common sense is assumed, people are expected to take responsibility for their own safety whether hiking or driving. (Rarely do you see a flagger or safety cones for road hazards here)





Excited to see our first yurt!


Local spring we used to fill our water tank


Winding our way through dry hills. In general southern Kazakhstan was not nearly as flat as we thought it would be.


Heading onto a track to find a wild camping spot at the edge of Charyn Canyon


Squeezing through rocks along the way - glad we decided not to go with the F150


Not sure where we will end up but liking the scenery and the journey


The final task when pulling into camp - leveling, sometimes with the aid of objects found around camp.


Gorgeous! One of the joys of overlanding, finding that unique, remote soul filling spot where you just look around and soak it up


As we got higher in elevation, yurts became more common, typically nomadic shepherds homes.

Our final real stop in Kazakhstan was Kolsai Lakes National Park. It was stunning, but surprisingly crowded. During our time in Kazakhstan most of the tourists we encountered were local or from neighboring countries, people would give us a second look, smile and ask where we were from. We felt like welcomed outsiders. Kolsai Lake was beautiful but our first instinct was to set off on a hike away from the instagram photo posing, coffee drinking, paddle boating crowds.


Kolsai Lake


We started on what we thought was a trail around the lake and quickly left all the people behind. We soon saw why, our two hour hike turned into a four hour expedition. Once we left the boardwalk, the trail disintegrated, taken over by tree fall, requiring clambering up and down steep cliff banks and a few unexpected water crossings.


The final leg when we rejoined the developed trail. Dawn is tired.

Overall Kazakhstan was an incredibly easy introduction to the region, travel logistics were easy to figure out and the friendliness and engaging nature of the people made it feel safe and comfortable wherever we went.


Hay loads become major road obstacles


Our final night in Kazakhstan, camped near the border in a field with mountain views.


Fall is coming, a cloudy morning for a border crossing


Our only prep for Uzbekistan was filling our Rotopax as we had heard about gas shortages. This turns out to have been very exaggerated, fuel was relatively easy to find with planning ahead and filling up in urban areas.


Discovered a leaky cap so employed a bush fix learning in Africa - seal with a plastic bag under the cap

We left Kazakhstan happy about our first “stan” country experience, ready to see what Uzbekistan had to bring.


Approaching the border with Uzbekistan

That is it for our first Central Asian Stan country - a resounding success for us in terms of increasing our world knowledge and developing our remote travel skills. Thank you for reading and hope you come along on the next leg of our journey with us!

 

Always a great right up and always love the photos. I’m really intrigued to know more about your quick trip across Russia. It sounded like there was only a minor hiccup but was fairly uneventful overall.

 

You're right we did gloss over our blast through Russia. We picked up our Transit visas in Armenia. This type of Visa limits us to a maximum of 10 days of crossing Russia which was no problem for us as we did it in 3 days and two nights. We were very apprehensive even though we don't look like your typical spies, who knows if the Russian government needed someone to trade. Russia was quite flat, even boring. We were crossing extreme Southern Russia through Dagestan which is a majority Muslim province of Russia. Roughly 30 years ago Dagestan and Chechnya fought and lost a war for independence but is still now quite restive with an unhappy populace. We went through three border checks at the beginning and and entering the Dagestan province. In all three instances we were singled out and asked to come into a plain room and have a special interview with a person , resumably from the FSB/KGB. They asked us ridiculous questions such as what do we think of Russia owning the Crimean peninsula. As if we would give them an honest answer, haha. After 15 minutes or so they let us go. In one instance we noticed a police car parked at the border crossing and after leaving 5 minutes, he pulled us over claiming that we did an illegal pass. He demanded $300. After 15 minutes of repeatedly saying via Google Translate we did nothing wrong, smiling, and pointing out our world travel map on our hood, they handed back our passports, smiled, shook her hands and let us go. Weird, don't like crooked cops, especially Russian.

We scrupulously drove below the speed limit, stopping completely at all stop signs, and using our turn signals and the rest of the trip passed without any more incidents. Both nights, we wild camped, hiding out in areas not visible from the public roads. It was nerve-racking but over quickly

 

That sounds a little more intense than I’d have imagined. Being pulled into questioning would have had me stressed out. I’m glad you all made it through ok, and appreciate you indulging my curiosity!

 

Uzbekistan




Ancient Silk road fort of Janbasqala in Uzbekistan


Our 3 week, 3600 km route thru both Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan felt like an even greater step back in history. The architecture in the cities was some of the most beautiful we have seen. We were back to desert and loved being able to clamber around old silk road forts on our own, using our imaginations to fill in the gaps.

Unfortunately, Uzbekistan also had some of the worst roads - the kind of crumbling asphalt with unexpected craters coming out of nowhere that made driving feel like a pinball course. This was made worse by seeing, as we entered, miles and miles of new highway newly completed but not yet accessible for vehicles. Definitely driving will be easier in the near future!

It was another slow border crossing (5 hours) despite the fact that there were only a few cars ahead. The most frustrating part about the borders was just waiting outside a gate for the guards to decide to let vehicles in, often for hours with no knowledge of what to expect for the timeline. Sometimes commercial trucks were being prioritized, sometimes it seems that people were either on a break or changing shifts. We learned to be prepared with food, water and kindles loaded with books. But in the end we were easily issued another Temporary Import permit for the truck (this time $2 fee), entry was free for us as US citizens and auto insurance was only $10.

However, there was some additional bureaucracy for Uzbekistan tourists. All tourists are required to be registered by an official accommodation (hotel or hostel) within a few days of arrival. You are also required to have a certain number of “proof of stay” receipts which are entered into a national database and examined upon exiting the country. The rules seemed to be a little vague, we asked repeatedly and the best guidance we got was that you should be registered “about a third” of your days in the country. Luckily, hostels were accustomed to people needing registration and many would complete the paperwork for you for about $5 per person whether or not you actually stayed there.


Our first night in Uzbekistan - camped in an empty staging area for the new road construction - not our most glamorous site but very quiet.


Beautiful above ground cemeteries dotted the landscape, with intricately designed mausoleums


A very brave car load . . .


Our second night, camped in the sandy desert

Our first cultural stop in Uzbekistan was city of Nukus and the Savitsky Museum. Nukus itself was unremarkable, a Soviet built city with broad avenues and practical architecture. But the museum was fascinating, with great value added by our young, local tour guide. Named after a Russian benefactor committed to preserving Uzbekistan art, the museum houses an impressive collection which rotates regularly. The art gives an intriguing insight into the life and historical culture of the country.


Early 20th century piece by O. Tansiqbaev


Women picking tulips


Then back to traveling the desert

Next up was a real Silk road experience - the land of 50 fortresses or Elliq Khala in Khorezm. Built in the 6th to 4th centuries BC, these ancient forts have mostly and remarkably stood the test of time. Some have had some partial renovation, others are slowly eroding into the sand.

Even our stamina could not withstand 50 fortress visits so we spent most of our time at three.


Standing on the walls of Topraz Kala


Brick walls and openings at Topraq Kala. Both a defensive fort and a royal residence, the site once housed over 2500 people and is one of the best preserved Kushan Empire (Indo-European people driven west by the Chinese) sites in Central Asia.


Dawn looking for the best angle to capture the extensiveness of Topraq Kala. A Unesco site, some of the walls in the distance are restored.


Her final picture


The next site was Ayaz Qala, with three forts spread over neighboring hills, dating back to the 4th century BC.


Driving up to the smaller fort at Ayaz Qala


Following a rough path outside the walls


Finding pottery shards everywhere. It was so incredible to be the only people wandering these places.


Looking from the small fort site across the valley to the larger site


First views of Janbasquala, our third and final fort, rising out of the desert


Walls of mud brick slowly crumbling away


Double walls with tunnels inbetween


Our fort explorations over, time to hit the road and see some ancient Silk road cities. Of all the countries we went to in the region, the historical cities of Uzbekistan were our favorite. Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand were extraordinary, blending unique and intricate ancient architecture with contemporary conveniences.


Camel on the road photo - it never gets old.


More desert


Sandy wild camp along the way - found some shade!

Although heavily renovated and somewhat touristy, the city of Khiva charmed us. Walking its streets, we could feel and sense what it must have been like to live there in times gone by. Our only glitch was that Google Maps did its best to navigate us into a non-driving area to get us to the hotel we had booked. Finally we realized we needed to park outside the gates and walk in - which actually positively added to the overall atmosphere of the city.


Walking in between the inner and outer walls of Khiva


Gorgeous old doors


Beautiful mural


The city felt like a living museum blending art and architecture





We appreciated the fact that unlike some ancient walled cities, people still actually lived in Khiva


We enjoyed a local performance in the town square, equally transfixed by our fellow local tourists as by the performers themselves





















Beautiful mosaic work everywhere














And down the side streets, people living their lives


Uzbeki weaving










Our first meal out in Uzbekistan - yummy savory bread pies and kebabs


Khiva was equally beautiful at night






Outside the walls of Khiva

Our next historic city was Bukhara. Feeling the need for another hotel registration, we camped outside a hostel close to the city center.


Our urban camping spot in Bukhara


Visiting the neighborhood baker for breakfast

After the relative quiet of Khiva, Bukhara felt like a bustling metropolis. Tourists and locals filled the streets, gaping in awe at the beautiful old architecture and conducting daily business. Although much of the city was destroyed when Genghis Khan invaded in 1220, remnants of those days remained along with some beautiful newer architecture.


Bolo Hauz Mosque, built in the early 1700's






Mausoleum built over the reputed site of Job's Well - where he struck the ground with his staff and created a well.


Central market - and more of the classic regional flat bread


And a whole room of cheese balls


Mausoleum of Ismail Samani, revered Islamic scholar. The oldest remaining building in Central Asia, it dates back to the 9th century. Not destroyed by Genghis Khan as it was buried under sand when he came through.


Beautiful Modarikhon Madrasah, school built in the 16th century






Central plaza of Old Bukhara city


Kalon Tower - from the 12th century. Competing stories for why Genghis Khan did not destroy it: 1) he looked up to the top and his hat fell off which made him bend to pick it up and he commented that never before had a structure force him to bow to it. 2) he liked throwing his enemies to their death off of it

Our last stop in Uzbekistan was Samarkand, a key Silk road trading center and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Central Asia. Not as touristy as Khiva or Bukhara, the old buildings were surrounded by pleasant walking paths, parks and contemporary cafes and shops.


Mausoleum of the ruler Timur, built in the 15th century






The women of Uzbekistan typically wore light weight colorful cotton fabrics and head scarves.


Central Registan square in Samarkand


Hazrat Khizr Mosque, Samarkand


Beautifully carved and painted ceilings






A local lunch of Plov - rice cooked with vegetables and meat, a staple


And samsas, delicious meat filled pastries

And for Dawn, no visit to the region was complete without learning more about making rugs. We visited the Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpet factory for an excellent tour, demonstration and explanation of the process.


Silk cocoons


Artist hand knotting a silk rug from naturally died silk. It can take several years to complete a rug.


Two artists working together on a complicated pattern


And of course, we had to buy one. We could not afford silk (averaging $15,000!) but found a great wool one.


Our tour guide, son of the factory owner


Throughout Uzbekistan young people enjoyed taking pictures with us

That is it for our first two Central Asian Stan countries - a resounding success for us in terms of increasing our world knowledge and developing our remote travel skills. Thank you for reading and hope you come along on the next leg of our journey with us!

 

What a great cultural experience!

Thank you for sharing.

 

Awesome truck and trip. You’re living the dream. I hope to spend a lot of time exploring once my kids are moved out.

 

Enjoy them while they're around. We didn't start this trip intil the last one graduated from college. Retirees can definitely do this!