Driving along then she just quit! 1/3 of electrical gone?

Greetings, I need some help. Since 1999 when I bought my tacoma I've done all work myself. I had just installed new front axles and cv joints last week.
I thought all was up to snuff until today...I was driving about 30 mph and came to a stop light. I hit the brakes and the engine quit. The engine still cranks but power to the odometer, clutch override button and it seems the ignition system has no power.???? My first thought was the spark-coil had burned out again. I replaced this last year. But then seeing that the odometer power was out and the system to the clutch override too.
I have checked just the fuses so far, they all are OK. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS? THANKING YOU IN ADVANCE, George

 

Did you check the under hood fuses too. Or it could be a bad ground.

 

Hi, yes I checked the fuses under the hood, but not the relays yet. Also, I checked all the ground points at engine, starter, alternator and, battery.

 

You might pull the fuse panels out and see if there is a short behind them. Other than that.... I'm out of ideas....

 

Appreciate the suggestions. Sunday when the sun comes up and warms things up a bit I'll have at it again. I need to find an accurate wiring diagram for my '99 too.

 

George, you might want to reseat the fuses, relays and connectors first. If no joy, then pull the ground connections off, and thoroughly clean the terminals and corresponding attachment points with a wire brush to bear metal. Corrosion, oxidation and rust can create a high resistance connection that is consistent with the problem(s) you have explained. Looking for voltage drops with a voltmeter and help you troubleshoot the problem, if cleaning the grounds does not fix the problem.

 

Nice.

It's been my experience that unexpected funky electrical problem can be a grounding issue. Check different grounds. Tough to find. Good news is costs nothing to fix.

Once found a frikken crazy problem was due to a poor ground at regulator. Mechanics were predicting they'd have to replace electrical system. Final cost for me to fix was $0. My favorite price.

 

Thanx Guys, I'm out in the cold tryin' to find the problem now. I really appreciate any input thanx again. I'll let you know what I find in a couple of hours.

 

4cyl or 6cyl? They are very similar.
Just happen to have these handy. It's a 2000 V6 but it's the same as my paper 99. I have the 4cyl diagrams, just not as handy.

 

If you can start it. Check the alternator output voltage and amps.

 

OK guys, I have been trying for a week now to find what happened to my ,99 Taco. I entered a thread under " 1/3 of power gone" about 10 days ago. I've got the 2.,7 4 cyl. sr5. The truck was running great, came to a stop light and it just quit! Engine cranks just fine but won't fire. Power is out to the clutch lock-out switch and to the odometer. I think everything else works.
I have replaced both battery clamps with new marine grade brass. I have taken out and tested every fuse in both fuse blocks including the relays. I looked under the engine fuse block for shorts or bad connections. I haven't done the underdash block yet. As of now the truck STILL WON'T START!!!
Does anyone know if there are any fusable links??? And if so where are they?
Also, does anyone have or know of FREE schematics for the '99 2.7 4-cyl.??
Any other suggestions that I may not have thought of???
Please help!!! Especially with schematics.............Thanx, George

 

OOPS....PS I forgot to mention that I checked both coils and they are not getting any power. George

 

Disconnect / clean carefully / reattach the wires to the ECM. Only thing I can think of offhand

 

the most common cause of this kind of stuff is corrosion caused the main cables to go bad so use jumper cables from positive battery terminal to alternator and test the positive side and next use jumper cables from negative battery terminal and ground to engine and check in more then one place.

its usually one of these two or the wiring harness itself has a bad main positive or ground wire but sometimes its the computer itself.

it is a PITA and takes time but go from battery to main components one at a time until you find it.

voltage readings don't mean anything because bad wires still can read 122v but not allow current (amps) to flow