Driving on 1-foot snow

Gearing on the automatic transmissions is so high that the top speed in 4Low is theoretically around 90mph.

 

I'd never even want to go that fast in my Taco.
My Vette is different.
Got home from a vacation one time and had to charge the battery.
Went for a ride on our local 6 lane and couldn't understand why everyone was going so slow.
My speedo showed 100 which I thought was in KM/ Hr.
Got home and realized I had not changed speed from MPH to KPH
I was doing 100 MPH by mistake. ha ha

 

The ECM locks out 5th and 6th gears in 4lo. So 6500 rpm / 2.57 low range / 3.91 final drive / 682 revs/mile stock tire x 60 = 57 mph. The manual has all 6 gears available, so it's faster

 

If you NEED low range you don't need to use any gears other than 1st or reverse. 2nd gear low range offers no advantage over 1st gear high range.

Not really. They made 4X4's for almost 50 years before locking hubs even existed. They should really be called un-locking hubs. Prior to the late 1940's there was no way to unlock the hubs. You just shifted into and out of 4X4 as needed. Prior to WW-2 civilian 4X4's were almost non-existent. After the war returning soldiers wanted them and they wanted to unlock the hubs for primarily highway driving.

I drove 4X4's with manual locking hubs for 30 years before getting one with electric locking hubs. If there was even a remote chance of needing 4X4 the hubs were locked before I left home and stayed locked until there was no longer any need for it. I just shifted into and out of 4X4 as needed. Your fuel mileage will take a hit, and if done for 100,000 miles you'll wear out parts sooner, but otherwise it doesn't hurt anything to drive in 4X2 with the hubs locked.

And I've found electric locking hubs to be just as reliable. If you use 4X4 regularly to keep everything lubricated and only use 4X4 on loose surfaces so you don't damage components you won't have any trouble. And that applies to both electric and manual hubs. Use either wrong and you'll have issues.

 

It's going to depend a lot on what tires you have and if you have an OR/Pro. I've plowed straight through 1.5 feet of snow up pretty steep roads with the rear end locked but without it locked I was SOL. Also the KO2's were never good in snow for me. Duratrac A/Ts were good when they were new but turned to shit very quickly. Falken A/T4W's have been great and hold up very well to the point that the Duratracs felt dangerous to drive on in comparison as they wore down.

 

As mentioned earlier you are only engaging the soft traction control disable. You have to hold it while stopped for 10 seconds or so to fully disable traction control.
Secondly the k02 has to be the worst winter tire I have ever ran. Duratracs or yoko G017's are my current go to for a winter AT. Also if there's that much snow I drop a bit of air pressure even city driving. Typically at 32 ill drop to 22 if it's really bad out and I'm not on the highway.

I was pushing moderately heavy over the fog lights in drifted areas thst day without any real effort 12 psi 4lo in drive traction control off

 

The Honda S2000 didn't even get into its power band until around 5500 rpm, and had a red line of 9000 rpm stock.

Are you trying to be serious, or maybe the 3rd gen is different, but in 4 low my 2nd gen will do about 40 in 5th before I don't want to rev it any higher. Not at redline quite, but a long way from 90 mph. I've only done that once and it was a stupid idea. My FJ40 would do about 25 in 4Lo 4th gear. Wound tight in 4 Lo 1st you could walk faster than it would go.

 

M85 doesn't know what he's talking about, because the 3rd gen automatics are capped to 4th gear in 4lo.

 

I said theoretically, as in if you just calculate the speed based on gearing, redline in 6th gear. I'm not surprised to hear there's an electronic limitation.

Edit: just like it can theoretically do 244 mph in 6th gear, if I did the math right. Or on 35's you could do up to 275mph.