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Driving with rear shaft removed

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by anthony250f, Mar 17, 2018.

  1. Mar 17, 2018 at 5:44 PM
    #1
    anthony250f

    anthony250f [OP] Well-Known Member

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    San Diego, CA
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    I removed my rear shaft to do some work on the carrier bearing and left the truck in 4hi

    When I went to move the truck forward the truck just starts and dies...I tried several times


    Any idea what’s going on?
     
  2. Mar 17, 2018 at 5:48 PM
    #2
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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    It ain't got no gas in it.
     
  3. Mar 17, 2018 at 5:56 PM
    #3
    desertrunner24

    desertrunner24 Well-Known Member

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    Some
    :rofl:
     
    b_r_o and Muddinfun[QUOTED] like this.
  4. Mar 17, 2018 at 5:58 PM
    #4
    megillet

    megillet Resident Badass

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  5. Mar 17, 2018 at 5:58 PM
    #5
    desertrunner24

    desertrunner24 Well-Known Member

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    Parking break released? I know it most likely is but I gotta ask
     
  6. Mar 17, 2018 at 6:06 PM
    #6
    mootiger49

    mootiger49 It’s mine, not yours!

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    At?
    The rear diff might be locked?
     
  7. Mar 17, 2018 at 6:50 PM
    #7
    Bajatacoma

    Bajatacoma Well-Known Member

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    No idea but reminds me of a buddy of mine in high school in the 80s who broke his rear drive shaft in his K5 Blazer while off-roading. He didn't want to tell his dad what he'd done so he removed the rear drive shaft and drove it around that week in 4wd; after school he searched for a similar year K5. The next weekend he went and procured himself another rear drive shaft. I know, it's a terrible story and a horrible thing to have done but back then we laughed about it and what the poor fellow who lost his must have been thinking when he went to drive off only to find his drive shaft missing.
     
    freddy2923 and TacoMitch93 like this.
  8. Mar 17, 2018 at 7:58 PM
    #8
    JCBigler

    JCBigler Well-Known Member

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    The fuck? You mean he just stole some guy's drive shaft? Instead of going to a junkyard and buying one for $50? What a douche...
     
    Bobcdn, CMD-KY, jmaack and 4 others like this.
  9. Mar 17, 2018 at 8:00 PM
    #9
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    It should start and drive fine. Driven mine 8hrs without it. There ain't no sensors checking to see if it's there.
     
  10. Mar 17, 2018 at 8:10 PM
    #10
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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  11. Mar 17, 2018 at 8:44 PM
    #11
    Bajatacoma

    Bajatacoma Well-Known Member

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    Yep, totally uncool but one of those stupid things high school students do. This was back in the mid '80s so that Blazer was probably only two years old so parts were still expensive. He was one of those dudes that would have rather spent his money on party supplies.
     
  12. Mar 17, 2018 at 8:46 PM
    #12
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    Yup +1 not one single issue over an entire weekend with my rear shaft out driving around town in 4hi.
     
  13. Mar 17, 2018 at 8:49 PM
    #13
    anthony250f

    anthony250f [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hm it’s a automatic

    I put it back in 2wd and it was fine


    Also I’m completely stuck doing the u joints


    1 u joint I cannot get out and another one I think I screwed up install
     
  14. Mar 17, 2018 at 8:56 PM
    #14
    desertrunner24

    desertrunner24 Well-Known Member

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    A ball joint press is a life saver for u joints if you have one
     
  15. Mar 17, 2018 at 9:10 PM
    #15
    anthony250f

    anthony250f [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That’s what I’m using. One of the caps is seized and then I started pressing one new one in and somethings messed up.


    Also I put the truck In 2hi then back to 4wd and everything is FINE now
     
    b_r_o likes this.
  16. Mar 17, 2018 at 10:01 PM
    #16
    ABNFDC

    ABNFDC Well-Known Member

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    Clean the parts of the yoke and shaft where the u-joints get pressed in. Edit to add-clean of rust/dirt/shit/etc. A bit of oil or run a dab of grease around helps smooth things out as you press the cup as well.

    Also make sure the needle bearings are up against the side of the cup when pressing in. Sometimes a dab of grease in the cups will help hold the needles in place. If one was out of place and you forced the cup in, you might have to buy a new u-joint.
     
  17. Mar 17, 2018 at 10:13 PM
    #17
    anthony250f

    anthony250f [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I think I may need a new u joint


    The problem I’m having is the inside of the u-joint hits the inside of the drive shaft before the cap comes all the way out....so the u joint is kinda just “stuck” in there
     
  18. Mar 18, 2018 at 4:17 AM
    #18
    ABNFDC

    ABNFDC Well-Known Member

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    So you're still trying to remove?

    Once you press the old one out as far as you can, just put a big set of vise grips on the exposed cup and wiggle it out. I've used a little heat and oil to help, but it's not always required.

    *note. I consider U-joints disposable, so whenever I pull them out I replace them.
     
  19. Mar 18, 2018 at 7:43 AM
    #19
    anthony250f

    anthony250f [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I finally got them removed!! Old cap was stuck but I was able to get it...I was replacing all 3

    Here why my new spicer wouldn’t go in properly :anonymous::annoyed:
    F7636A65-E5C5-45E9-BC05-C7E846E3F451.jpg
     
  20. Mar 18, 2018 at 5:06 PM
    #20
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    Been there, done that. It may not be kosher, but clean it out really well, repack the needles with new grease and borrow a roller from your old u-joint if there's one that's in good shape.
    It's not the best solution but I did it years ago and it worked. OR you could buck up for another new one.

    Your mileage may vary......
     

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