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DRLs in 1st gen help

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by TACOLGY, Mar 29, 2019.

  1. Mar 29, 2019 at 9:49 PM
    #1
    TACOLGY

    TACOLGY [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I had to replace my headlights on my 2003 Tacoma Prerunner v6. I bought a pair off the good ole eBay that came with side markers built into the headlight plus DRLs. The issue is how should I go about writing the DRLs up? Has anyone done this to their 1st gen?

    Thank you and please reply with helpful information.

    Screenshot_20190329-234040_eBay.jpg
     
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    #1
    zech96 likes this.
  2. Mar 30, 2019 at 3:11 AM
    #2
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Does your truck now Have Day Time Running Lights ??

    If so it should be all plug and play

    Your best bet is to get a copy of the Toyota Electrical Wiring Diagrams

    Maybe some one will post the Daytime Running Lights schematic for your year truck I would if I had it .

    Have you searched How to Add Daytime Running Lights

    It all comes down to just How you want them to work Factory specs with all the relays and switches ??

    Wired to the run side of the ignition switch so that engine running they are on all the time ??

    Maybe for 2003 The Daytime Running Light harness with assorted parts is installed my 2000 does not have that harness
     
  3. Mar 30, 2019 at 5:40 AM
    #3
    Ritchie

    Ritchie Well-Known Member

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    DRL's weren't an option in '03.
     
  4. Mar 30, 2019 at 7:10 AM
    #4
    TACOLGY

    TACOLGY [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DRLs did not come on Tacomas in 03. These aftermarket headlights I bought came with some and they have 2 wires (black & red) sticking out of headlights.

    I just don't know where to wire them. I was thinking of having a switch in the cab to work them.

    How hard is it to hook them up to the parking lights?

    Also I'm concerned anout the leds on the DRL will overheat. My buddy had that issue and melted the headlight. So I need to wire them up where there's not a lot of voltage.
     
  5. Mar 30, 2019 at 12:21 PM
    #5
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    The load will determine how much current will be drawn .

    The voltage is limited to the system voltage .

    With a failed voltage regulator you might see 15 to 16VDC at most normal not more then 14 VDC

    Loose connections will cause heat and things to melt
     
  6. Mar 30, 2019 at 1:06 PM
    #6
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

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    My take is that these are just accent light, not true DRL. True DRL LED is about 7-10W per lamp (about 900lm per light), these are probably close to 1-2W. You can wire it to ACC (for constant ON when engine is running), side marker (ON when the light switch in is tail position). For true DRL functionality they would require kind of controller that would turn them ON when engine is running (or key in and ACC position) and turn them off when the light switch is in Tail position (for night driving). But with these accent lights, you can run them day and night, nobody would care (besides you of course).

    For reference these are OSRAM LEDFOG101 with 10W LED DRL in each lamp:

    upload_2019-3-30_13-5-36.jpg
     
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    #6
  7. Mar 31, 2019 at 4:16 AM
    #7
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your explaining
     
  8. Oct 8, 2024 at 6:04 PM
    #8
    jt.fisher

    jt.fisher Member

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    How did you end up doing this? my truck has the same headlights, when i got it they where hooked up to the parking lights, but i changed it to where the corner would be my blinker and it got rid of the DRL. i got an actual blinker sorted and now i cant for the life of me figure out how to wire the DRL back to the parking lights.
     

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