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Dueler revos, horrible balance

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by out_of_step, May 16, 2009.

  1. May 16, 2009 at 6:36 PM
    #21
    allupinsydeyou

    allupinsydeyou Well-Known Member

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    so cal / vegas
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    v8 swapped yota. dyno tuned @ 400hp
    modified total chaos uppers and lowers... king coilovers, deaver leafs, full cage, 351w motor swap, etc..
    tires as well as size. all depends on how soft or hard the compound is in the tire.
     
  2. May 16, 2009 at 6:36 PM
    #22
    Brunes

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    Both...or either. Even the same size/design tire from two different manufactures are different enuf that you can't (necessarily) use the door plate specs for a different tire. If might work out fine-but it's not guaranteed.


    You can get tires that are the same size but a different load ratings-requiring different pressures. Different sizes have different sidewall stiffnesses and can need different pressures.
     
  3. May 16, 2009 at 6:43 PM
    #23
    David Tarantino

    David Tarantino Well-Known Member

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    if that were true then the door plate would have to list each tire manufacture
    and tire psi :D
     
  4. May 16, 2009 at 6:48 PM
    #24
    David Tarantino

    David Tarantino Well-Known Member

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    if you change size then yes :D
     
  5. May 16, 2009 at 6:48 PM
    #25
    out_of_step

    out_of_step [OP] Member

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    actually it can be your preferance for pressures depending on load in vehicle if your towing and so on if set wrong wear can change drastically, but with the new TPMS system some manufactures wont let you change the psi settings without the lights going on, but this isn't the case with tacoma once set pressure and reset it light goes on after it think 4 psi loss
     
  6. May 16, 2009 at 6:49 PM
    #26
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    Best way to determine tire pressure for whatever tire on your truck is the Chalk method..

    http://www.automedia.com/Optimizing_Tire_Pressure/ccr20010801tp/1

    One simple method for finding the right pressure for your vehicle is to draw a chalk line across the tread, then drive a bit and check the line. Even wear is good, while the line fading in the center indicates over-inflation. Worst is when the chalk mark wears off at the outer edges (shoulders) first, meaning that the pressure is too low. Under-inflation lessens the tire's load capacity, can make for squirrelly handling and, most importantly, makes the tire run hotter. Hot tires tend to disintegrate, regardless of who made them. Consequently, it's better to err on the high side, even if ride quality may suffer and the tire wear pattern could be less than optimal. However, do not exceed the maximum pressure as stated on the sidewall—there can indeed be too much of a good thing.


    Once the lines wear off evenly, note those pressures for future reference. While the inflation must be identical for both ends of an axle, the front tires will often require a slightly higher pressure since they usually carry more of the weight of an unladen vehicle (most engines are up front).

     
  7. May 16, 2009 at 6:51 PM
    #27
    Brunes

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    What Chris said- Find your own numbers

    Even that setting on the door for the right tires won't always been exactly what you want. You can add pressure to try and improve mileage or lower it to get a softer ride.
     
  8. May 16, 2009 at 6:54 PM
    #28
    allupinsydeyou

    allupinsydeyou Well-Known Member

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    modified total chaos uppers and lowers... king coilovers, deaver leafs, full cage, 351w motor swap, etc..
    perfect response!!! and you can also do your own alignment in the same fashion. that is what i do... a tape measure and some chalk.
     
  9. May 16, 2009 at 6:55 PM
    #29
    Brunes

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    have you compared your chalk/ruler alignment with a real alignment rack?? I'd be interested to see how close you get.
     
  10. May 16, 2009 at 6:58 PM
    #30
    allupinsydeyou

    allupinsydeyou Well-Known Member

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    so cal / vegas
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    v8 swapped yota. dyno tuned @ 400hp
    modified total chaos uppers and lowers... king coilovers, deaver leafs, full cage, 351w motor swap, etc..
    i can show you pictures of the wear pattern on my front compared to the rear... both wear perfectly even. my truck no longer fits on a rack... so that is a wee bit difficult. lol.
     
  11. May 16, 2009 at 6:59 PM
    #31
    Brunes

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    LMAO...Fair enuf- All the talk about factory specs...I like having something to compare to.

    If you don't fit....you don't fit..Nothing you can do about it.
     
  12. May 16, 2009 at 7:02 PM
    #32
    allupinsydeyou

    allupinsydeyou Well-Known Member

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    so cal / vegas
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    v8 swapped yota. dyno tuned @ 400hp
    modified total chaos uppers and lowers... king coilovers, deaver leafs, full cage, 351w motor swap, etc..
    yea fuck them... hahaha. cheap ass pussy racks cant take my amazing long travel lol
     
  13. May 16, 2009 at 7:07 PM
    #33
    out_of_step

    out_of_step [OP] Member

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    How can you get a caster reading with chalk and a tape measure??
     
  14. May 16, 2009 at 7:13 PM
    #34
    allupinsydeyou

    allupinsydeyou Well-Known Member

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    so cal / vegas
    Vehicle:
    v8 swapped yota. dyno tuned @ 400hp
    modified total chaos uppers and lowers... king coilovers, deaver leafs, full cage, 351w motor swap, etc..
    i always give myself just a weee bit of positive caster. has worked so far. there is a way to do it with a 2x4, 2 nails and a piece of string..
     

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