Dumb Utility Trailer question

Image a dumb jerk has a Tacoma. that dumb guy now has dumb trailer questions.


I just bought a raft for family float trips and I am wanting a Utility trailer to help haul gear. Most trips will involve long drives(10+) hours. I am looking at 8’ or 10’ trailers. I feel there is a big difference in quality and build between box stores and manufacturers. I’ve never owned a trailer, have only pulled a U-Haul trailer with the Tacoma.


so, I have some basic questions. I would guess trailer would only have about 500 pound max load in it(boat/gear/coolers).


1. I’m assuming you get what you pay for, currently looking at cheap trailers (like at lowes) and trailer manufacturers. I’m assuming both are road certified/safe?

2. Wheel size, for long drives should I try to be finding something with 15in tires or can 13 do just as good of a job. Seems like all of the Lowes trailers have small tires on them.

3. Cheap trailer at Lowes weigh around 600 pounds vs a trailer company's are betwen 8-900 pounds. how much can you expect the extra weight to affect gas mileage? Stupid question, I know. If I usually get about 19-20 on hwy with empty truck will a utility trailer kill mpg?

4. When Buying a utility trailer is there anything specific I should be looking for? Do you test drive to make sure it pulls straight? I'm also looking in the used market.

5. Best advice to prevent the trailer from breaking down on a road trip? I know to carry tools and a spare for it, but anything else?

Thanks for trying to make this dumb guy a little less dumb.

 

I would buy a trailer from a trailer manufacturer, I have a 5x10 ramp gate trailer made by Suretrack. It weighs 900 lbs. has a 3000 lb. axle with a 2100 lb. payload.
New with a spare tire it was 1800$ out the door.
Built better than a box store trailer. Rampgate is easily removed.
I've towed it on several six hour one way trips with no problems.
I always carry a spare. Thinking about getting spare wheel bearings but I've never needed them.
I always keep an eye on bearing grease and tire air pressure.

 

Good trailer tires are a critical item to avoid failures. Also wheel bearings need regular maintenance.

I though I'd save some $$ on less expensive trailer tires on our pop-up camper. Well, less than half way into our trip the 2nd flat happened. Only had 1 spare and it was already in use from the first flat. Long sorted story, short version, spent 2 hours locating a tire.....from an old Pinto resting in a junkyard, paid $50 for it......trailer sway was insane above 40 mph. We were on Texas interstates....... I ended the ordeal with 3 new expensive good trailer tires. In the end the total cost was pushing $1000 (2 sets of tires and a limp tire)

The lesson. Don't bother with bargain trailer tires. They ain't a bargain.

 

I would not be afraid of box store trailers. I have one from 2006 that I have pulled at least 4000 miles without incident (once from Los Angeles to Chicago). It has 13 inch tires and about a 1500 pound payload. I also have a jetski and trailer with 13 inch tires that has well over 10,000 miles. It had a wheel seal leak on a trip from Los Angeles to North Carolina. I was able to add more grease to the bearing each time I stopped since I had way to add grease with a Bearing Buddy grease nipple. Leaked from Arkansas to North Carolina where I fixed it. So 13 inch tires are not a problem.

 

1. Yeah, you get what you pay for but all new trailers have to meet minimum standards.
2. Wheel/tire size matters, especially driving many hours at a time. Larger diameter tires mean less heat and wear, especially under load. Thirteens are probably fine for your stated use.
3. All trailers affect milage. From my experience a light trailer is going to use almost as much extra fuel as a big one.
4. Trailers are mass produced and it would be odd if any one of any specific brand was different enough to be better than another.
5. If you are worried you can check the wheel bearing/hub temps with your hand when you stop for gas. If you get the trailer in water you may want to regrease the bearings using boat trailer grease.

The cheap trailers you are looking at will usually carry a light side by side ATV, so 500# is no problem. I like to get trailers with 2" ball capability. As long as you do that you don't have to own multiple balls/recievers.

 

Sams Club sells these. I've had mine 5 years now and have pulled it from GA to as far north as Kokomo Indiana and as far south as Miami. Multiple trips to the Charleston SC area. I paid $1300, but I think they are closer to $1400 now. It has been great

6 x 10 ft. Steel Utility Trailer | Karavan Trailers

It is very versatile. The sides and front fold down to load from the sides, or you can even remove them to have a flat bed. Mine weighs about 900 lbs with a 2000 lb payload. I'm know for a fact it will easily carry more weight, but that is to keep GVWR below 3000 lbs so it doesn't need trailer brakes.

I volunteer with a group that searches for missing people. Several times a year my wife and participate in a search using out ATV's I can load one from the side and the other from the back.

 

I’d get a 6.5-7 x 12-14 aluminum w/ aluminum deck. If it has a rear ramp, get a bifold

torsion axels are well worth the price over springs, especially on long trips

definitely get radial tires

single axel is fine for what you’ll be hauling but definitely take a spare tire

you definitely get what you pay for. I’ve had zero issues and my trailer still looks new after 5 years and a lot of miles. I’ve got friends that went cheap and have had issues (usually electrical) or it’s rusting like crazy after a year or two

 

So many things come into play.

First How heavy is the ramp ? Can it be removed east to load a pallet from the rear?

Does it come with tie down points or just using the side works

I would get a larger size tire ideal would be the same size as the truck

Just how much use will it see in a year?

you do get what you pay for

 

Agree on the Aluminum.. Can cost double the price of a steel trailer but worth it.