Dynamat install on doors

Dumb question.... on my double cab I'm starting my speaker install in the rear doors. Do I stick the dynamat on the stock clear plastic liner? Or take that off?

 

Put it on the actual door/metal, some people also put it on the door panel.

 

Remove the plastic first. Some people put the plastic back on after the dynamat.

 

Dynamat or any other damper will be useless on that plastic. It needs to go directly onto the surface that needs to be treated (inner & outer door skins, door card). I sealed my whole door with damper so no need to keep the plastic liner. Sealing doors makes a huge difference BTW - especially in the midbass department.

 

Thanks all!

 

You'll want to take off that vapor barrier, and try to keep the butyl tape (or whatever that stuff is) on it. After you're done putting dynamat on the outside skin and inside skin, you can then reattach the barrier using its own adhesive. I went a little overboard and even put dynamat on the inside of the door panels to prevent other vibrations.

 

Does the whole inside skin of the doors need to be lined or can you use just a few strips?

 

Depends on what you're using. Conventional wisdom says go with 100% coverage with stuff like Dynamat. However when you use CLD tiles, you're encouraged to go for ~25% coverage over the central 50-75% (I'm using this approach in places and it works great). I'd think you could get away with less than 100% coverage with dynamat etc, but it's hard to say where to stop - all applications are unique.

 

I did 85 ish percent on inner door and 100 on the visible panel you see in pic. The other back door i dod like 25 percent on inner door and 100 on visible part(except the hole that vapour sheild used to block) and let me tell you this door is way more solid sounding now and way more deadened than the other rear, i plan to redo that door. I used the peel and stick from lowes so it was cheap enough that i decided to use it as a vapour sheild too

 

i just did one dynamat door kit per door and it's not enough. the resonance is clear and lingering.

 

Peel and stick from lowes is 16 bucks for 12 sqft

 

P&S is application specific for household roofing, as is Dynamat/Second Skin/RAAMmat/ect is for automobile application.

Use at your own risk.

 

What exactly is this stuff called? I'm trying to find it on the Lowe's website.

 

TS2F tested that stuff & found it to be worthless as a damper. IIRC there were some chemical concerns with it as well as heat tolerance issues.

 

There's plenty more of these videos on YouTube. Save your time and effort, and do it the right way the first time.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7hWDx6rt6Xc

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KzLe9eF0cIw

 

Mine isnt as flimsy as that stuff in exos roof. It was quite rigid

 

I'd be interested to hear how it holds up through a Florida Summer.

 

Ill check it out when i change the rear door speakers out. The backwall held up perfectly fine for 5 months so far. And even if it was crappy the floor should still be fine. I never had any intentions of uaing it on the roof however, i was gunna use the good stuff up there. My roof flex is bad so i plan to do some legit stuff up there

 

With the time, and effort that goes into the process of stripping, prepping and applying there is no chance I'd be using that stuff or even inferior auto specific products.