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Dynamat Poll, yes or no? If so how much?

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Armyballer, Apr 14, 2009.

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Dynamat, do it or not?

  1. Yes, do the entire truck, it's well worth the cost for your system and needs

    85 vote(s)
    23.7%
  2. No way, your system will be fine for what you want out of it.

    48 vote(s)
    13.4%
  3. You gotta do at least the doors, that will do you fine.

    62 vote(s)
    17.3%
  4. Doors and wall behind the sub box are a must!!!

    163 vote(s)
    45.5%
  1. Apr 15, 2009 at 10:24 AM
    #21
    skierpunk

    skierpunk Well-Known Member

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    After you've installed all that are you able to tell that the cabin is noticeably quieter? $700 quieter?
     
  2. Apr 15, 2009 at 10:30 AM
    #22
    LonghornTaco

    LonghornTaco Can you pass the bailout please?

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    I'm not sure if it's $700 quieter (I've had that debate with myself a few times) but it is noticeable. Especially if you get in a truck that has nothing.
     
  3. Apr 15, 2009 at 7:42 PM
    #23
    sooner07

    sooner07 1/2 man 1/2 amazing

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    A A Ron
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    Toytec ultimate lift kit, light racing UCAs, ARB bumper and full skid plates underneath. Looking into redoing the suspension and maybe repainting the ol' Taco.
    Come over any time. :D
     
  4. May 6, 2010 at 8:55 AM
    #24
    mcampos0

    mcampos0 Today I Will!!!!

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    Do what I did.. I went to several audio stores and they were giving me crazy prices for dynamat ($400 for all 4 doors or $80 bucks a hour for about 1 hour and a half a door) soo i found that 36 square feet of dynamat on Amazon.com is only about 120 so i bought that a did my doors myselft and i still had about 12 square feet left over so maybe you could buy 2 of the 36 Sq ft. packs and do the doors or have someone do it for you.. I did that and save a lot of money..:D
     
  5. May 6, 2010 at 8:59 AM
    #25
    hookedontronics

    hookedontronics Well-Known Member

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    1.) First, 1400 is a rip off unless your getting a double din or a 4 channel amp along with the speakers. And what brand/model are we talking about here?

    2.) Deaden the entire truck but don't use overpriced dynamat. I'm an installer and own my own audio business and i use fatmat xxxtreme, it's better and wayyy cheaper. You can get a 100 square foot roll for $160-. It's more than enough to do the whole truck
     
  6. May 6, 2010 at 9:22 AM
    #26
    StZu

    StZu Where the White Women At?

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    Level 8 Wheels, Bilstien/Eibach lift, 2" aal, blacked out rear bumper, AC drain hose relocation, sound deadening 4 doors and back wall, amp/speaker upgrade, 10" daytona sub, LED interior lights.
    http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld

    This guy knows his stuff, I have contacted him several times and he answered all of my questions plus some. I am going to buy my vibration dampner from him, here in Texas we need a high heat tolerence and this stuff has the highest heat tolerance in the business.
    Email him and he will email you back and tell him what you are wanting to do and he will tell you the proper way and the minimal way that fits with your budget.
    I was very happy with him.
     
  7. May 6, 2010 at 5:14 PM
    #27
    polox40

    polox40 Well-Known Member

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    TOYOTA ALUMINUM STEP BAR, 3M HOOD FILM, WEATHERTECH FLOOR MATS, 7" DD WITH BACKUP CAMERA, TRD SEAT COVERS
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #27
  8. May 6, 2010 at 6:07 PM
    #28
    bookmonke

    bookmonke Well-Known Member

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    That ebay link is not dynamat, but looks good.

    Has anyone done a dB meter on the highway yet, I was getting around 72-73dB at 70MPH and my next project is probably sound deadening.
     
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    #28
  9. May 6, 2010 at 8:56 PM
    #29
    lookylookitzadam

    lookylookitzadam Retrofit Club!

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    I did my truck in the HVAC sound dampening/insulation stuff from hardware stores.

    self adhesive Close celled foam on one side and thin aluminum backed. It worked great and it was dirt cheap. Its been on there for about 9 months now. Just a thought to save money.
     
  10. May 9, 2010 at 9:48 AM
    #30
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    What were you measuring with and what tires?
     
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    #30
  11. May 9, 2010 at 10:32 AM
    #31
    bookmonke

    bookmonke Well-Known Member

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    Stock BFG tires and I have a sound meter from work that goes up to 150dB. I had the meter in center of cab at arm rest.
     
  12. May 9, 2010 at 5:28 PM
    #32
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I'll see what I can do for getting a measurement in my truck. I've deadened all of it and I have a little SPL meter from radio shack that isn't terrible. Surely doesn't go up to 150db but I'm sure it will suffice.
     
  13. May 9, 2010 at 6:00 PM
    #33
    bookmonke

    bookmonke Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I saw you did floor and roof I know I'm doing doors and back wall and undecided about the other areas.
     
  14. May 9, 2010 at 7:54 PM
    #34
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    If you use mat deadener on the floor you'll get little to no results.

    I keep repeating this over and over to the Taco guys. Mat style deadener (dynamat, CLD tiles, damplifier, raamat) are just meant to keep vibrations from being transferred through the vehicle. To block road noise you need a noise barrier like Mass Loaded Vinyl.
     
  15. May 9, 2010 at 9:21 PM
    #35
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    So I threw the meter in the truck and went for a drive.

    70.xxdb on the highway with the cruise set at 70mph. Fluctuates due to road conditions so it's a rough measurements.
    44.7db at idle
    20.2db engine off :eek:

    And for those who aren't that familiar with the decibel system, it's a logarithmic scale. Meaning that 110db isn't 10% louder than 100db. Every 10db you increase you've doubled the sound as I understand it.

    To put that into a speaker demonstration think about this... you'll gain 3db by doubling the power to a speaker or by adding another speaker with the same input power.
     
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    #35
  16. May 11, 2010 at 3:44 AM
    #36
    bookmonke

    bookmonke Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I'm going to retest on way home this afternoon, noticed a difference on road surface that concrete is louder than asphalt highways. The 10dB sound about right, 40 is a whisper, 60 normal conversation and 80 for 8hours is bad according to OSHA.
     
  17. May 11, 2010 at 5:56 PM
    #37
    bookmonke

    bookmonke Well-Known Member

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    Ok, I measured 28 with engine off, 47 at idle no ac and 49 with ac on low fan. And a 2db difference between road surfaces.
     
  18. May 11, 2010 at 6:10 PM
    #38
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I had about a 2db difference between road surfaces as well so that sounds about right.
     
  19. May 11, 2010 at 7:27 PM
    #39
    478DblSport

    478DblSport Thermonuclear Protection

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    | EXTERIOR | DiamondBack SE Tonneau Cover, Havoc HS2 Hoop Steps, Tailgate Hose Clamp Mod, Shortened OEM Antenna, DeeZee Bed Mat | INTERIOR | Flyzeye V2W (Amber/White/Amber), RAM Mt A-Pillar Mod, Audio: Pioneer AVH-X5700, PDX-5 (119Wx4+410W), Polk Audio MM6501 (F) & MM651 (R), JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 (Sub), w/Monster, Rockford, & Streetwire cabling, Metra Dash Kit.
    Okay.., So what have we learned here guys? bookmonke has a non-deadened/barriered truck that has a db measurement of 72 & ItalynStylion with a deadened/barriered truck gets about the same db measurements? Shouldn't there be an appreciable difference?
     
  20. May 11, 2010 at 7:30 PM
    #40
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I just answered your email...(sorry was kinda long:eek:)

    Feel free to post what I sent you as I'm sure others have the same questions you did.
     

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