Dynamat Poll, yes or no? If so how much?

Duratrac's are the problem for sure. MLV should help you out fa sho!

 

Yeah, I know they don't help the cause any. But I do know for a fact what I did so far did make it MUCH quieter. My wife and buddy both noticed without me asking. Plus the TRD exhaust that came on my truck had a nasty resonance inside the cab that is all but gone now. Anxious to get the MLV in and see what happens. I'll take readings again and report back.

Plan on doing the floor and back wall first, then attacking the doors.

 

I think the MLV would help too, plus maybe some spray on undercoating in the wheel wells.

 

Update: Got the floor done and back wall with MLV, and did a quick test on the way to work this morning. About 82 db now, at 70mph.

Keep in mind, I still haven't done the main doors or access doors. But I really thought it'd quiet it down more. I can still hear more road noise than I expected.

 

The doors help quite a bit so wait till you've finished to make your final conclusions.

But remember you'll eventually hit the law of diminishing returns too. It will only get so quiet. Wind noise will become a problem. It is for me.

 

I totally agree.
I used raammat on my doors first.

I did 1 door at a time, and then tested the audio simply switching the balance left to right ( of course to compare the sound between door with raammat and door witout ).

As we know from the wise in this forum, New Component front speakers with sound deadening will improve your audio sound.
Wish I would have made a damn video.

Simply stated: it sounded louder and clearer.

 

dude get fatmat 100sq feet for like 120 shipped. on Amazon

 

Finished my deadening project over the weekend with MLV, the dB meter showed just a 1dB drop at highway speeds, getting 67.5 dB on concrete 65 dB on asphalt doing 70 MPH, but parked I'm getting 38 dB no radio or AC at idle. Wonder what some spray in undercoating will do in the wheel wells, over all project material was around $250 from Sound Deadening Showdown and Raamat.

 

Out of curiosity, what kind of meter were you using to measure?

I finally finished all 4 of my doors, but keep forgetting to throw in my meter to see what the final result is.

 

I have a Tenma 6635 borrowed from work.

 

I measured mine finally this weekend, with the entire truck now done in raamat, ensolite and MLV (except the roof, just raammat and ensolite):

With it in the garage at idle, no AC or radio on, it's about 63db.

At 70mph on smooth freeway, it's 82 db (not any quieter vs. when the doors weren't MLV'd.)

Again, this was measured with an older analog radio shack meter. The needle tends to wander abit, so my readings are where the needle tended to hover around the most.

 

And it does it not sound any different to you?

 

Sure, but going down the freeway at normal 65 - 75 mph:

Raamat and ensoliting whole cab - big difference
MLV floor and back wall - almost as big a difference
MLV the doors - very little if any difference

I think IS said it best, you get to a point where it's the law of diminishing returns.

Cruising around town where I only hit 45mph or something, it's super quiet and all 3 phases I did made a noticeable difference. But the road noise on the freeway is what I was trying to get rid of or minimimize with the MLV, and that wasn't as successful as I'd hoped.


But in all honestly, I was skeptical how much it'd make a difference anyway on the highway due to my meaty tires. If I had more normal tires like Revo's or something, I'm sure it'd be quieter.

Anyone want to buy some Duratrac's?

 

.
Sub'ed
.

 

The box should provide quite a lot of help with sound control. After all, they are designed to control the pounding of a woofer. I would think that anyplace not covered by the box should see some RAAMat, and probably the whole surface could take a layer of 1/8" ensolite and still work with the tightest of boxes.

 

you have a meter?

 

peel n seal ftw

 

Get rid of the rear speakers. No reason to have them - save your money, or use it to upgrade your system.

 

its great if your outting a decent sub in, id say just the doors and back wall, and yea theres alot of alternatives to dynamat, look em up, ive even heard theres some weird stuff at lowes that similar but is way cheaper and for outdoor stuff but itll work great. either way id do the essentials, and not worry about firewall and roof and floor. thats my input

 

not worth the cost, just like "audio grade" power cable, welding cable will work just as good, at nearly 1/4 the cost.