Dynamat Poll, yes or no? If so how much?

For people with iPhones, you can get a free app from JL audio that has a sound meter in it and it matches up pretty good with a true hand held one I have.

 

What do we tell them? Do we tell em that were part of tw?

 

walked into our local shop with a determination not to spend over $2500 (of course, ended up spending just over $3K). the head of this shop recommended against ANY type of sound-deadening material when i asked him why, he said it can be counter-productive and simply unnecessary in my particular case (the truck was fairly new @ the time). he has built competition systems in the past so i said "OK". many variables to consider............... keep in mind i'm running a JL audio stealthbox made of fiberglass, not wood, which supposedly has less resonance than a wood enclosure.

 

Yes. Send Rick an e-mail before ordering to make sure the proper discount is applied. Sometimes it's a real price difference, and sometimes when he's got everything on sale there's not much difference, but with contact you can be sure.

 

Thanks man ill look into it. This might be a stupid question but wats his email

 

Wow! As a former 0-150 SPL+ competitor and certified installer, I really have to wonder about your local pro-shop's recommendation!

I'm also running the JL Audio Stealthbox in my 08 Taco and it is because of it that I needed to add sound dampening. Bolting that sub box to the back wall of the cab causes the entire back wall to vibrate and create harmonic distortions. Even w/ all the sound-deadening I did, I still have a bunch of buzz and rattle of the sheet metal that I need to (eventually) work on getting rid of.

Perhaps he was just reluctant to do the work? As an installer, it's a pain in the rear and sometimes, the time is not worth the money....this is especially true when dealing w/ brand-new vehicles where you have to worry about causing inadvertent damage to panels and such.

 

Peel n Seal, works pretty much like all of the deadeners. At Home Depot it's called Quick Roof. dheap too about $18 or bucks for a decent roll.

 

After doing my last truck, covering every single piece of metal (floor, walls, doors, roof, lining the front wheel wells and the hood and upper portion of the firewall..basically what I could reach w/o removing shit to apply it), here is what I would do the 2nd time around, keeping cost and time in mind. Fwiw, I prefer a quiet ride vs loading up the vehicle to kill every rattle from unecessary amounts of bass. Anyway.....

Vibration damper on doors, but don't over-do-it. It can really weigh down those doors and stress the hinges.
MLV/CCF noise barrier also on doors, but more importantly on the roof, floor and rear wall. This stuff hardly weighs anything at all, so get good coverage.
Hood liner is a quick application and if you have a few extra bux, may not be a bad idea.
I'd skip the wheel wells unless you're getting really crazy. OR tires create enough noise to probably justify the application, but those running OR tires probably dont care about keeping things quiet. Rather, it'll probably be street truck/car guys who probably use a relatively quiet tire.

 

I am gonna have to agree with 07TacoRidah, Peel n Seal is a good sound deadener, I have used it on a few of my personal cars and is kinda cheap too.

 

would this be a decent substitute for MLV?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...nyl;100663624-_-202861596-_-N&locStoreNum=159

 

Without having seen it firsthand, your very first issue is that it is not self-sticking....and that's where the true strength of any of these rubberized-type sound-deadening materials comes from....you need to get the rubberized material to stick to as much sheet metal as possible to give that sheet metal more mass and lessen the vibrations.

The second issue would be the pliability of that material. Since it's designed to be a floor underlayment, it may very well be very stiff and you want something that is pliable and somewhat stretchable to get around all the ribbing and other odd shapes inside your vehicle.

 

makes complete sense (didn't know that about MLV). I have 1 layer done on the back wall (for now), I'm pushing only about 680w to my subs, is one layer good enough or one more layer should do? Don't want to go nuts with it (seen people do the entire cab with 3 layers ... lol I'm not doing anything earth shattering).

 

Well, I'm running the JL Audio XD 600/6 amplifier w/ the last 2 channels bridged into my Stealthbox....so that's putting a measly 200 watts into those 2x12" subs. With that said, I only focused on the back wall since bolting the sub-box to that back wall caused the entire back wall of the cab to vibrate to the point of not being able to enjoy the subs.

I used expanding foam to fill in all the hollow areas of sheet metal struts and then used a single overlapping layer of Peal N Seal across the back wall of the cab since that was my "buzz bomb" area. That has (fairly) effectively eliminated the majority of the noise from the cab and now, the major source of my vibrations come from the factory plastic bedliner.

So if I were to continue, I'd probably target my bedliner next....but that's just me personally......and I'm not on a personal quest to make my cab as silent as possible....merely to eliminate vibrations/buzzing caused by my music.

 

dang 200w and you get vibrations? I hear it more in the rear access doors than the bed. I'm just going to do up the whole cab with one layer and see if that works (should, I see guys pushing like 1kw or more and they got like 3/4 layers, the MLV and so on).

 

I did mine a while back. Makes a very noticable difference. It's well worth it if you've invested a good chunk of money into the rest of your system

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/115796-diy-sealing-deadening-your-door-panels.html

 

Yeah, that double-cab Stealthbox is (very surprisingly) efficient. I'd like to move on to the 600/1 amp just to push it harder, but it's just not a priority for me right now.....especially knowing that it will just show me more areas to vibration-dampen.

I'll be interested to hear how your vibration-dampening experiences work out! Keep us posted!

 

X2 with hooked. ever since I did the back wall, the roof flexes more than it used to, and I am hearing some vibrating in the back access doors. It's kind of hard for me to gauge which is which though when Im at the house (stupid garage door vibrates enough to confuse me). Going to shoot a small vid of the roof jiggling and dee if I can get the doors lol

 

http://youtu.be/MYLnD5k1vBM

 

MLV is neither pliable nor self adhesive. The only thing that matters is mass. Needs to be 1 pound per square foot or greater... that stuff is .75 pounds per square foot so you would need 2 layers. Find something heavier. Remember only mass/weight matter... it can be rubber, metal, vinyl, or whatever... just needs the mass. Material is 100% irrelevant.

 

There is other cheaper products that work just the same as dynamat. Buy one of those and install it your self. It will be well worth it.

Dynamat makes a trashed out civic quite like a Lexus.