DynoLock Electric Tail Gate Lock Install

Well, I'm going to dig this thread up from the past... I've had my Dynolock for about a year now, and it has stopped working. Luckily I was able to pull up my tonneau enough to get my hand in and get that open, but my tailgate is still locked. Anyone have this happen before? How do I go about getting this thing open? This sucks...

 

Dynolock is closed Sunday's but I'd call him tomorrow for ideas. This can't be the first time it ever happened.

(214) 343-8578

 

figured it out...

I was able to take the back plastic off the tailgate and get my hand in there and unlock manually. The actuator came unbolted and was just swinging free. reconnected it using better hardware and all is well now...

problem solved...

 

Still wondering if anyone has gotten control over one of these things with an aftermarket alarm system and trunk release button.

 

Sorry for the late post...guess the threads been dead for 2 months.

Not sure if you completed this, or were just maybe planning, but thought I would follow up.

I have a Viper 5901 remote start in my '06 dc, and my retrax roll-up cover and 2 actuators are on the way. 1 dynolock HS actuator for the tailgate lock, the other for a cover lock.

After some online research, and tearing into the viper manual, it appears the trunk release on my Viper is a neg. pulse "un-lock" only as thats all that would be needed for a typical trunk release servo. Most alarms provide 1 wire for LOCK pulse, and 1 wire for UNLOCK pulse (as mentioned and shown above in this thread)for door locks. The Viper alarms have a white 3-pin connector specifically for the door locks (middle pin of connector isnt used)but again only 1 neg. pulse wire is provided for for the trunk release...so in theory you could lock or unlock your tailgate using the trunk release button of your alarm...but not both (atleast from what I see with my viper).

My viper was installed so 1 unlock from the remote unlocks everything (all doors), in other words no progressive locks as is with the factory remote. While the viper does have provisions and can be set up with progressive locks, I believe its additional work most installers avoid...again, this is my understanding but I am not a professional installer...

The viper auxillary outputs appear to be the same/similar to the trunk release only providing 1 pulse per auxillary... For that reason, if you choose NOT to tie into the factory wiring because you dont like the idea of cycling your actuators with every lock/unlock of the truck, it appears you would need to tie into the alarm using aux 1 (for example) as lock and aux 2 as unlock. Personally..I dont like the idea as thats alot of button pushing on a remote...and I dont think there is anyway of programming the remote to indicate via icon etc. whether its locked or unlocked...if that makes any sense.

If you choose the use of auxillarys, trunk release, or a combination there of from the viper, 2 relays are required (again, 1 for the lock pulse, 1 for the unlock pulse) as the viper only provides 200 ma pulses which act as "triggers", but not nearly enough to power an actuator. You can go the traditional route of using 2 bosch relays (cheap and wiring schematics are easily found via google) OR by using a DEI 451m module, which is basically 2 relays in 1 (find it on ebay for $10). Personally, the 451m is the way to go for anyone considering this (or any similar mod. requiring lock/unlock relays).

My plan is to have both my actuators LOCK with the truck/alarm locks by simply wiring them to the factory lock wire as shown in this thread.

I will then install a tiny push button trunk release button in the dash or maybe in the door near the OE door lock buttons, and splice that "trigger lead" with the viper trunk release wire coming from the viper unit, then into 1 bosch relay (un-lock relay). So I will be able to unlock via remote or push button, but everytime I lock the truck, the back will lock as well.
My thought is the actuator mechanisms will not have all the abuse of locking and unlocking with the truck/viper..although I forsee them getting plenty of lock pulses when already locked...which I guess is better...


Havent inspected my back-up camera grommit at the tailgate yet, but if I dont have the room in that grommit I will drill 1 and install another grommit as suggested above...whatever it takes to avoid looking at exposed wiring!

Everything should be delivered within the next week or so...so if your still interested i can follow up with some pics afterwards... Please let me know.

Craig

 

I installed a Dyno Lock a few days after getting my truck.
I ran the dyno lock wire bundle from the back of the truck, along the frame on the driver's side up to underneath the drivers seat area and through a rubber seal that already has a large wire bundle passing through it. I removed the yellow tape around the seal, ran the dyno lock wiring through the seal, placed the rubber seal back in the proper position and retaped. The instructions say you can drill a hole or poke a hole through the seal, but routing through the rubber seal seemed a little more conservative to me.
One thing I wondered in the beginning is which wires were supposed to be connected at the closest connection to the lock in the tailgate because they're both black. In the end, if the dyno lock locks the tailgate when you hit "lock" on the fob, then you're good. If it unlocks when you hit lock on the fob, just switch the wire connections in the tailgate closest to the lock. If I would have read the instructions completely beforehand this would have been clear.
Jim also responded to a phone call with a question I had on a Saturday. Great customer service.
I hope this helps a little bit and adds to the already great base of knowledge on this site!

 

Awesome, thanks for the pictures.

 

If those pics had been in the install instructions, it would have saved me a bunch of time. nicely done.

 

so according to this you can wire up to the wires on the passenger side no problem? in stead of the drivers side?

 

sorry I misread it. thought you said passenger side.

 

Based on this thread, I purchased 2 dyno-locks and had them installed (way over my head) on my 2010 Tacoma & my father in-laws 2011 Tacoma (both 4x4 dbl cabs w/back-up camera & tonno pro covers).

A friend of mine is great with this stuff and completed the first truck in about 1 1/2 hours & the 2nd truck in about 20 minutes! I printed out what I thought would be helpful for him & the tips were great. Slicing off a small portion of the block before even running the wires up front was a huge help (he used a cordless drill batt. to test-fire the lock).

My truck does not have an alarm so it unlocks by either pressing the remote unlock twice, or the drivers door unlock button. My father in-laws truck does have an alarm so for some reason the dyno-lock opens when you just press the remote once?

I have been to the snow twice already & my father in-law lives near Reno NV so we've both had weather & snow overnight & it is working to perfection thus far in all conditions (I was worried about that for some reason - lack of knowledge I guess)!

My friend did say to pass on that he thinks a sodder is a much better connection than the crimp they give you for inside the tailgate as that is the part of a truck that bounces the most. He also thought moisture over time might mess with their supplied connector.

Thanks again...it is rad & I killed it with the father in-law again!

 

Subscribed for future install

 

I bought a dynolock after seeing your instructions - so easy a caveman can do it. I replaced a Pop & Lock, which didn't function nearly as well as the stock handle. This new setup works great. Thanks for posting the pictures.

 

Just ordered my Dynolock. Subscribed for my install when it comes in a couple of weeks. Thanks to all who posted their lessons learned.

 

I ordered the dynolock a week before i got my truck in november and had it installed the day after i got the truck and it has worked absolutely perfectly........ i love it. this product is way better than any keyed lock...... it is steathy and convenient this is something that toyota could easily have incorperated in the truck in the first place.

 

Just installed mine last week, had to shave a little of the nylon block but besides that it was a pretty easy install thanks to the info from you guys! Works perfectly definately worth it!

 

I installed the dynolock actuator both at the tailgate handle, and also the smaller one offered by retrax to lock my new re-trax roll-cover.

honestly, I wasnt comfortable with the one at the handle, as I felt it was just to easy for someone to break the cheap handle trying to get in...leaving me trying to dismantle the tailgate in the closed position. And good luck trying to find a quality aftermarket handle for our trucks...I couldnt.

Then I found this thread...

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...k-writeup-lots-pics-56k-go-walk-your-dog.html

where someone used two actuators and barrel bolt locks to create a "dead-bolt" system where the barrel bolt locks engaged through holes drilled through the sides of the tailgate and into holes drilled in the truck.

I customized my installation a little, improving it in my opinion from the OP, and am very satisfied with the results.

For anyone looking for an alternate method than the handle lock, I highly recommend you consider this option. I spent a little more than $20 for 2 heavy duty DEI actuator kits on ebay, and $6 maybe on the 3" barrel bolts at Lowes and couldnt be happier...

The wiring from the tailgate back would be the same as the Dynolock...although mine is different as I wired a relay between the trunk release of my viper alarm to the unlock wire, but wired the lock wire to the factory wire as posted in this thread.

 

Has anyone had it where when the hit the botton one time the Dynolock makes a loud noise (like it is trying to unlock 5 times in a row)? Usually when it happens anyone with 30 feet of me in a parking lot jumps like a machine gun is going off.

 

nope...but sounds like it could be somewhat entertaining...lol..

 

Yeah it is funny to watch, but I worry it will eventually fail and leave me unable to open the tailgate. That is what I get for paying someone to install it, would have done a better job myself