DynoLock Electric Tail Gate Lock Install

I hear you man...that sucks! I'm just trying to understand what would cause that! The lock/unlock wiring is single pulse...so my guess would be theres an issue with the actuator itself..but I'm guessing.

Let me know if you decide to tear into it yourself, and need a new actuator. In the end, I only used my dynolock for a few days before switching over to the 2 DEI actuator/bolt-lock set-up. If your interested, I'll shoot some pics and make you a good deal to get it off my work bench.

 

I just did this, took about an hour/hour and a half.. not bad at all.. I ran the wiring along the other wiring harness along the driver side frame rail and into the plug underneath the seat.

Used a lot more zipties than supplied. I also chose to attach it to the other wiring harness for the camera vs a drain hole. See pic below. That wiring harness actually had two wire wraps where it comes out of the gate and through the clips. I took one off and was able to get both in.. and then taped it up pretty well. Overall, I'm happy so far.

 

I've completely read through this thread and am about 98% sure I'm good, but I'd like to make sure I'm not misreading something.

I have a 2009 Tacoma extended cab that does have auto locks (key fob). According to Dynolock, it does work with my truck, but can anyone confirm for me it will 100% work with my 2009??

This is just my typical paranoia since I typically end up ordering the wrong thing.


Thanks for any confirmation someone might be able to provide for me.


Andretti

 

my truck is an '09, works fine.

 

Finally got mine installed yesterday after a rather slow going process.

It ended up being more of a time consuming process for me since I had to make two phone calls to Dynolock for clairification on the somewhat lacking instructions. Both times Jim answered promptly and was very helpful.

For anyone (like me) who is installing this on an EXTENDED CAB and not a double cab, the wires are NOT down on the floor by the passenger seat, but up behind the passenger side kick panel. Once they were successfully located, installation was pretty straightforward.

I also had to trim the nylon block somewhat and bend the bracket slightly so that even when forcing the tailgate handle, the tailgate would fail to open when locked. Initially, this was not the case and probably took 20 min or so of adjusting it before I felt like it couldnt still be forced.

Now that its installed though I am completely confident with the product and 100% satisfied. While the instructions are a bit lacking, between them and this thread it is a somewhat straightforward installation.


Andretti

 

got mine on Friday. just installed it. Took a bit longer that expected, but that's they've all gone according to every one. Even called Jim on easter Sunday and he answered while he was grilling and he gave me some pointers... If I had to do it again, it would probably take 20 minutes. It really sounds burly when it closes, makes me feel good about the purchase and install.

 

I completed the install yesterday. I tried to run the wire with the rest of the wires under the bed, but I couldn't follow the bunch over the gas tank. I found an opening in the frame and ran the wires through that. Removing the spare tire helped a lot.

I made my entrance into the cabin through the rubber plug under the driver's seat by stretching the hole and sticking the wires through.

Dynolock instructions correctly identified the blue wires (black stripe and pink stripe) to tap into. I tapped into the bunch at the 3-way wire intersection. I had to switch wires in the tailgate after the tap to sync the lock/unlock with the rest of the truck.

I added threadlocker to the new bolt for the bracket/door lock. I used more zipties than was provided.

In the future, I may re-run the tailgate wire with the camera bunch. The single wire going into the spare tire ratchet hole looks funny.

 

This is a great write up! Thanks Wreckup! I'm going to order a Dynolock and feel pretty confident that the install will go smoothly thanks to Wreckup's post. I have a 2011 DC with a Leer top which has remote keyless entry. I'm wondering if there will be any issues adding the Dynolock to the circuit?

 

I haven't had any issues since my install. Pictures helped the most. SLQ and TexMexTaco have good pictures of the driver's side wiring.

TexMexTaco's pictures also show the rubber boot that I used to run the wires into the cabin on the driver's side. It would've been easier for me to remove the boot, squeeze the new wires through, then replace the boot.

Have extra zip ties ready. I used way more than what ships in the package.

After you tap into the driver's side wiring, the tailgate lock should act just like a passenger-side or rear-passenger power door lock. Keep the tailgate panel open in case you have to switch the wires for the correct lock/unlock sync.

 

Just finished installing my Dynolock onto a 2011 X-Runner.... And my plus sized body was able to squeeze under the truck to run the wires through the frame rails without jacking up the truck at all to get under it. Very straightforward install once I found the wires I needed to tap into, though crawling around on the ground made it a chore.

I had to shave a little off the nylon block as well. Handle feels damn secure. That with the Pace Edwards Full Metal Jackrabbit secures my bed damn nice.

 

This is my first post. Just installed Dynolock (TAC09CHSA) into my 2011 TRD Sport w/ backup cam. As with other folks, installation took longer than I anticipated (~2 hrs). I read through the instructions and the earlier posts (many thanks!) a couple of times to make sure I am not missing something. Like wreckshop, I had the cable enter the cabin through the rubber plug under the driver's seat but did not use a threadlocker on the bolt (sounds like a good idea... will probably do it later). Tapped into the blue/black and blue/red cables going towards the rear (makes it work like the passenger/rear doors) and ended up having to switch connectors in the tailgate to synch lock/unlock. I felt good considering this is my first tacoma and my very first mod.

When (I thought) I had everytihng done, I figured testing should be the next step. I did a few lock/unlcock cycles without any problem. The lock/door handle felt sturdy enough. Then I decided to close (actually, gently slam) the tailgate with the lock engaged... and it jammed! The good thing is that it jammed with the tailgate in the open position (ie, won't latch on) otherwise it would have been big trouble. It seems that the lock could get shifted a little and block the actuator on the door handle (not sure if I am making sense). Anyway, I decided to use ~3/4" rubber pad to prop the Dynolock against the inner pannel to keep it in place. It seems to be working now. Not sure if anyone else had encountered this problem and would be happy to hear of a more permanent fix.

Thanks!

 

I just put the lock in, in about an hour. Thanks for all of these tips.

Next up - Fold-a-cover G4.

 

So after I wrote this I emailed Dynolock and they said it sounded like the actuator might be having a problem or the wiring. Sadly I just started my own business and have not had a chance to look into it. This was sad because it ended up failing in the locked position yesterday and I was unable to open the tailgate. I just spend the morning prying into the plastic parts of the tailgate so that I could unbolt the dynolock and open the back. I emailed Jim again at Dynolock and will see what to do about the actuator. Guess I should have gotten on that sooner so I didn't end up with extra work. Oh well, live and learn.

 

I just ordered mine (they're on sale for $119.99 http://www.dynolockproducts.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_15&products_id=52) and I cant wait to install.

 

They must have raised the price by $10 since you bought one...

 

They are being great to me, they are sending me a replacement no questions asked. Though the failure was a bummer, you cannot ask for better customer service after!! Seems to be a great small business to do business with.

 

I just completed this install with NO issues thanks to all of you and your advice, pictures and explanations. The pics from TEXMEX were quite valuable and right on the money. My only suggestion would be the following:
Looking at the first picture by "SLQ" it appears that they cut the plastic tube wrapping the wiring harness. I took off the tape, and found that they "hard" sheath underneath (smooth one) that is about 6 inches long unwinds and allows one to not have to cut through it and risk cutting any wires. I then wired the Dynolock in exactly as described and it worked perfectly. I cut the hard smooth protective tube/sleeve into two sections placing them in front and after the splice and then taped the whole thing really well and it came out looking great.

Thanks again to all of you for taking the time to take pictures as they were 100X more helpful than the instructions from the mfg.

 

I've got a question about the geometry of the Dynolock system... The photos and videos I've seen shows a solenoid that operates in one plane, and the locking pin operating in another. To me, it appears the two are out of alignment by about 30 degrees. It seems this would have to create some kind of binding when the solenoid is activated. Has anyone experienced (or heard of) this causing problems?

Check out this video to see what I'm talking about... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWWp5zmMqWw

 

I've not had any problems with mine since I instlaled it. The lock in that video looks like it might not be quite lined up correctly. I suspect it's hanging up on the black latch pin. I'll bet if the lock mechanism is rotated clockwise just a touch (probably less than 1°) it'll work smoothly. If it's still hanging up, you may have a bum actuator. Contact Jim Martin @ DynoLock (jim@dynolock.com or 214-476-9332) and bounce it off him. They have excellent support/customer service.

 

This is exactly what I did with mine. I drilled 1/4" holes in the plastic plates for the existing wires (one on the bottom of the tailgate and one just below the back of the bed) as I didn't like the idea if running it through a drain hole. This setup seems to work perfectly.

I gotta give sickboy props, I couldn't figure out how to run the wires through the existing holes, hence the new 1/4" holes I drilled. Plenty of room in the little plastic plate to drill the 1/4" hole and run the wire though.