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E-locker actuator

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by SurefireDBL, Jun 3, 2013.

  1. Jun 8, 2013 at 6:43 PM
    #21
    SurefireDBL

    SurefireDBL [OP] Active Member

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    So, I installed the used E-locker actuator.
    Question: How critical is it to have the match marks between 0° and 5 °?
    Outermost rack tooth was centerline but
    I could not for the life of me rotate the pinion of the actuator like the FSM instructs.
     
  2. Jun 9, 2013 at 1:54 AM
    #22
    IDtrucks

    IDtrucks Just out for a rip are ya bud?

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    yes. 2 in fact
    if your locker is factory i don't think it is crutial at all. as i was told the locker ecu tells the motor when the collar has slid far enough to lock it and unlock it, the computer takes care of the timing. its when you have the locker on standalone like I do that it is crutial to make sure the teeth match up perfectly so it fully locks and unlocks
     
  3. Jun 9, 2013 at 9:51 AM
    #23
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool She caught the KATY and left me a mule to ride

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    It is critical to have the last rack tooth and the pinion match mark line up no matter how it is wired. The actuator has an internal, fixed rotational range of motion and the rack gear/locking mechanism in the diff has a fixed amount of travel from FULL lock to FULL unlock. It is possible to have the gears a tooth off and still "work" but they must be in correct sync or damage, premature wear and/or diminished strength in the locked position could result from only partial engagement.

    If the actuator install procedure in the FSM can not be followed exactly including the last part about the "knock pin", you must find out why. That last bit ensures that there is some spring tension on the rack gear in the "locked" position when the over-travel limit switch (inside the actuator) is reached.
    If the pinion can not be rotated electrically on the bench, the actuator will have to come apart because it is not working. Use 3v instead of 1.5v in case there is some old dried up grease or corrosion in the actuator binding things up. Full transit time of mine with 3v is less than 1 second on the bench and the same at 12v installed with both wheels off the ground.

    Pulling the actuator apart might be a good idea just as a PM measure for cleaning, some fresh grease and liberal sealer on the joints/seams. The actuators are notorious for ingesting water. Study up well on that procedure before you start opening it up.
     
  4. Jun 9, 2013 at 10:52 AM
    #24
    SurefireDBL

    SurefireDBL [OP] Active Member

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    The unit turned fine when I had it hanging from the stud with the plug on. My problem was when used 3V. Hell, I even tried two (2)CR123 batteries to no avail which equals 6V. Nothing happened at all. Why can't I use 12V from the battery with alligator clips for rotation ? Or could I still do that?
    Works great installed. Bought the part out of California, with that said I don't think the part suffered from the typical snow and salt type of corrosion. Lastly, FSM states "Don't supply the battery positive voltage directly betweem terminals." Can you explain this?
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2013
  5. Jun 9, 2013 at 12:31 PM
    #25
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool She caught the KATY and left me a mule to ride

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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, Both 31" MTZ's and 33" Toyo's, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears

    If you are using little button cells, I don't think they will deliver enough amperage to do anything. D cells are what most folks use.
    If it works from the harness you should be able to get the mark aligned that way.

    The reasoning seems to be a safety issue. Never seen any "official" documentation on this nor have I never seen any documentation to the contrary. For example if the unit was seized and jumper wires were applied direct from the battery, something is going to melt or burn real quick, possibly in your hand.

    Keep in mind that the actuator corrosion horror stories come from internal as well as external corrosion. The internals will most definitely corrode even if pure mountain spring water gets inside. Electrolysis, from all the dissimilar metals in the presence of electricity, will screw things up at some point. The factory sealing job and thin ass o-ring on the motor "bell" are proven spots for water intrusion.
    If you got it working good and you don't want to open the can of worms of taking it apart, then at least brush or smear some sealer over the seams/joints. It will be cheap insurance.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2013
  6. Jun 9, 2013 at 12:48 PM
    #26
    SurefireDBL

    SurefireDBL [OP] Active Member

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    I tried indexing the pinion by the harness option but it started and ended in the same spot each time. I already have the part and installed and it works fine, I don't want any premature wear like you stated earlier.
    I tried AA's, CR123's and a single D battery to no avail. I did not try 2 D's taped together. I was thinking of using my sons 6V battery on his rechargeable Jeep toy. What do you think about that? Also, what sealer did you use?
    I have had this truck since October operating without the locker. It is my DD. I don't off-road hardcore either. I don't mind pulling it off again I just want to do this right.

    Thanks for your help.
     
  7. Jun 9, 2013 at 2:49 PM
    #27
    IDtrucks

    IDtrucks Just out for a rip are ya bud?

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    quit messing around with the batteries man. just hit the dam switch in the dash to test it out.
     
  8. Jun 9, 2013 at 2:51 PM
    #28
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool She caught the KATY and left me a mule to ride

    Joined:
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    823
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    59.4 Miles, 56.67*NE Of Moab
    Vehicle:
    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, Both 31" MTZ's and 33" Toyo's, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    I'm not going to make a call on that big of a 6v battery. The 2 D,s are what work for me and many others. Using the harness should put the mark very close to the correct spot, see below.

    A few things come to mind here :D and I think this might be the issue.
    The FSM directions are for a pulled diff sitting on the bench. This is how/when I have always serviced them. In this situation the 2 long studs are not present to interfere with the whole rotating, knock pin, slot, mark alignment deal in the last FSM step. It would be impossible to align the marks with the diff installed and the 2 long studs in place with out moving (cheating) the rack gear back just enough to align the marks. This issue is addressed when Dick Foster gets involved midway in this thread, post #6.
    http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42460

    The FSM is a bit confusing at that last part. It tells you to place the actuator on the diff with the "knock pin" at the right end of the slot. The marks should align at this point or be very close (rack all the way locked, actuator all the way to the locked position. Then rotate the actuator CCW until the pin is at the left end of the slot. As stated this step is not possible on an installed diff with the long studs installed. With the studs in place you will have to cheat by moving the rack gear back towards "unlock" just a wee bit so everything lines up and the actuator can be slid over the studs.

    Some other BS thoughts.
    How far off is the mark? Are you holding the actuator correctly when looking at it, with the motor shaft straight up and down? Sealer type is not real important for after install application. Just something waterproof that will stick.

    Keep at it :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2013
  9. Jun 9, 2013 at 3:10 PM
    #29
    SurefireDBL

    SurefireDBL [OP] Active Member

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    Can you not read, I know you can't spell, so I fixed it for you. It is installed already and works! I just want it to work for a long time and not wear out prematurely. If I have to take it off again to index it properly, then so be it.
     
  10. Jun 9, 2013 at 4:58 PM
    #30
    IDtrucks

    IDtrucks Just out for a rip are ya bud?

    Joined:
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    JVC Deck, 10" sub mountd in rear seat cubby, 2 LED off road lights mounted in grille, amber raptor style grille lights, LED rock lights, square led bed light, custom made fuse block tray, 12 blade Blue Sea fuse block, 100a marine circuit breaker, black plasti dipped full grille, tinted tail lights + third, Uniden 520 with 4' firestik, Bilstein 5100s with 620lb Eibach coils, Diff drop, Chevy 63 leaf swap, TG creeper joints, 14" triangulated biletein 5125s, 8" extended steel braided brake line, TG Rock Sliders, CBI Moab 1.0 front bumper, custom fabbed bed rack, full TRD E-Locker axle swap and matching re-gear with custom stand alone wiring circuit, 29 spline pinion flange from an 06 wishbone runner, tubbed for 35x12.5" general grabbers on Ultra type 181 wheels, crush sleeve eliminator, Mini ARB compressor, front ARB locker, garage fab aluminum front skid plate, custom built high clearence rear bumper, removable mothafuckin doors
    Alright ya ass, sorry I didn't put an n at the end of it, big fuckin deal. Your messages are so all over the place and so undescriptive I can't figure out what the hell you are doing. Insulting people who are trying to help you is not a good way to get help in the future. Good luck on whatever you are stuck on.
     
  11. Jun 9, 2013 at 5:12 PM
    #31
    SurefireDBL

    SurefireDBL [OP] Active Member

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    You insulted me first here and I let it slide and gave you the benefit of the doubt. Thanks for nothing. I guess my messages would be undescriptive to someone who doesn't read them clearly.
     
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