E locker Failure

Been thinking about that real hard, especially since I just bought a compressor a couple weeks ago.

 

So the lock sensor on the diff for the 3rd gen has 2 wires. 1 wire from ECU to the diff lock sensor, and a second wire from the diff lock sensor to ground.

When the diff is locked, the ECU wire is grounded. If that wire is grounded all the time (chafed onto the frame...or stuck lock switch), the truck will realize something is wrong, and lock out 4wd mode changes and throw a code. It takes a while for the truck to flag it as an issue, a few miles, etc. If the dealers are telling you the truth, that is the most likely culprit based on what you have said. If you unground that wire (or disconnect the sensor, etc) the truck will work fine. Even the locker will work, it just wont give you a lock indication.

Take pictures, we will help you figure it out

 

Just got it on a lift to look at it and take some pictures
The sensor is broken clean off. It's definitely not grounded because I can switch between 2wd 4hi & 4lo no problem. Thing is is that the locker will not engage- I've tried every trick I know short of bashing it with a hammer. I'm guessing I have more issues than just this sensor.

On a second note looking at that sensor it is attached to a small cover. Looks like that cover could be popped off to replace the sensor. Anyone know why the dealership wants to take my whole diff apart to replace the sensor?

 

not locking the diff, or locking but no dash lock indication?

 

That’s a simple fix. Find the correct part number and order a new sensor and replace it yourself. The dealership is trying to rape you.

 

Not locking the diff. Indication blinks, but I haven't heard it lock or felt it drive like it's locked. Been making full lock turns in snow and icy dirt without any binding

 

What does the hanging piece look like inside??

 

Shit, now that I think about it, that sensor has 2 wires that are internal. You can still do the repair yourself, you just have to pay attention to how everything comes out and put everything back in the same order. Any shop should be able to do it pretty quick as well since they aren’t setting gears.

 

Psht for 1300 you can get an air locker instead.

 

Thats weird
This might sound like a dick, but 100% sure it is not locking?
With the sensor broken, the dash will always flash, but the diff should lock in anyways.
Maybe jack up the rear and make sure.. (sorry if that sounds like I am being stupid, but over the internet its hard to tell...)
(you are in 4Lo, slow speed, etc I assume)

No codes present?
If there is anything actually wrong with the actual lock coil, it is instant codeville in my experience. (if lock coil wiring is shorted to ground on either wire, or the wiring is open, or the coil burnt out, etc.. all are monitored by the ECU and will throw a code).

On the other hand, the lock sensor just makes the light on the dash go solid vs blink, and tells the ECU to send hi voltage to the diff or low voltage...

 

No codes at all. I'm 90% sure it's not locking. I'll put it on the lift and try to engage it tomorrow to see for sure.

 

That's what I was afraid of. So the sensor has two wires that run internally in the diff so the only way to replace the sensor is to pull the whole diff apart correct? If so that's a pretty bad design flaw by Toyota to not have that end of that sensor fully guarded.

 

I mean if I got spend some money I might as well go all out right?

 

I would.

 

Pretty sure that switch just pulls out.
I think it might take some work to get it in there correctly.
(will have to search for previous thread, been a few mentions of damaging it with new gears..)

Stealing others pictures at the moment.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...o-the-rear-differential.466594/#post-13979407

 

That makes it look much simpler. I wonder if there is a clearance issue at the end of that sensor which made them scared of just popping the sensor out. I might give the ECGS guys a call in the morning see if they know. Looking at the prices for their built 3rds and fronts, I may just get those and regear and be done with it if its not going to be an easy fix.

 

You can always pull the sensor out far enough to check, but if memory serves me correctly I think there’s 2 internal wires. You may even be able to splice into those without having to pull the diff.

 

Ahh shit. That’s the one that if pulled out, you have to cut the tip off. The diff will still work, you just won’t get a solid light on the dash. I had to do that to mine because I’m a dumbass and pulled it out.

 

If you have a locker, then you also have A-TRAC or MTS (since 2009)... and with those systems which essentially lock the rotation on the front and rear, you can live without the rear locker. Your photo shows the problem so it is only an R & R procedure and you can find any good mechanic to do it if you don't have the time or tools.

 

If you read to the end of the linked thread, the design of the diff requires you to pull it completely to get the switch in place.