E Locker Wiring Installation

Lowrange Offroad makes a nice aftermarket harness also.

 

Took my kick panel off and lower dash cover to look for plugs. At first glance you would say they're not there. But factory workers taped them out of the way and after digging in I found both the switch plug and the 4x4 ECU plug. But I had to really dig around. Makes since that the workers wanted to get them way out of the way. OP I don't know if you went with an after market set up but you had all you need short of 20 ft. of 6 wire and a 6 terminal molex plug set. BTW my truck did not have a 4x4 ECU. So I guess it is e locker equipped specific. I did however have a theft deterrent ECU. Truck must have come with a remote which I didn't get. Some pix along with rear end porn.

 

The rest of that harness is not there. You'll have to run that.

 

Yes. I'll plug it into the 4x4 ECU I salvaged and splice into the wires on it with the six pack of wires I'll run from the locker harness as described in the link I posted in post #18 of this thread.

 

cool beans. I think thats all you'll need to do afterwards.

 

Now I remember why I didn't follow this guide, because the plugs were different. 01-04 models have a single rectangle plug.

 

Didn't install rear end yet but I just plugged in my 4x4 ECU to see if I'd get the dash Locker light and if the switch illuminated. Put it in 4Lo and pushed button and started smelling burning. Unplugged the ECU and opened it up and found a small burn on the circuit board. Is there any reason why that would happen just because locker isn't set up? I read of others plugging in prior to test and not the result I had with burning. Going back to salvage yard see if I can get ECU off axle donor truck. Hopefully nobody snagged it since last weekend. The ECU I had was off a TRD and had the correct part #89533-35060. Always something.

 

Hm, was it a 4x4 trd or just 2wd trd edition?

 

What do you mean?

 

My 02 has a rectangle plug under the driver seat that has everything going to the rear pinned in, not 2 separate plugs.

 

Do you have ABS? If you don't, your truck won't have the other plug. The main plug under the driver seat is BN1. 95-00 the 2nd is called BN4, 01-04 it is BN7. My 99 did not have the BN4 plug because my truck does not have ABS and did not come with the elocker.

 

If all you did was plug in the computer and switch without altering any wiring, that sounds like a fluke.

 

Well, the locker axle assembly I pulled from the truck, I also pulled the harness. It wasn't complete but the e-locker wires were all intact. All I did was pin them into the same location of my current harness.

 

After looking at the wiring diagram again, you are correct. In 01 Toyota decided to combine BN1 and BN4 and make BN7. I have attached the 99 wiring diagram and 03 diagram for the locker.

Another interesting note, on the 03 diagram the locker ECU is called "Rear Diff. Lock ECU" and the 99 calls it "4WD Control ECU". I guess Toyota finally realized how confusing it was to have 2 computers with 4WD in the name.

If you compare the 2 diagrams side by side you can see that the pin numbers at the computer are the same. Toyota changed the color of the 4 wires going to the locker motor from the computer to the BO1 connecter at the diff, but then you can see they go back to their original colors going into the locker motor. I'm guessing they did this because some of those earlier wire colors were the same as wires in the original BN1 connector (BN7 on 01-04).

 

Will probably help me in the future when I actually will use the oem harness again, thanks!!

 

You know I'm not sure. The truck I got it from was striped clean. The whole front end was gone so it may have been a 2WD.

I think you may be right. Found the one from the rearend donor. I was very happy that it was left behind($11) Also cut off the plugs. Going to re-pin the grey one with my new 18/6 cable and run it forward and re-pin the existing ECU plug in my truck with the required 5 connections. I'll piggy back the RLP(locked detection) with the one entering ECU plug as you can't just replace(cut) it as it works in conjunction with ABS ECU. the ground I'll just attach to metal side wall.

BTW thanks to NZBROCK for 2003 Tacoma wire diagram. Those are the same colors on my truck(2003) obviously but also on this 02 stuff that I salvaged. The wiring colors differ in the 4Runner and Tacoma year ranges as previously noted but as long as you follow the pin #s you should be good to go.

So looking at the male harness plug off the locker with the latch on top the pin #s are
2 1
5 4 3
7 6

Look at the back of the plug for wire colors matching pins if you want. So the pin match up goes like this. The first # is the harness plug pin, the second is ECU pin.
REL1. 1-9
REL2. 2-6
M1. 3-3
RLP. 4-1
M2. 5-2
GND. 6&7-7 or firewall

There are two grounds, one for the locker motor and the other for the locker position indicator.

I added all this if for the ones who don't do well reading wire diagrams and also for a pin # resource. In post #18 I show the locker ECU pin #s looking inside the ECU plug port.

FWIW the ECU the OP shows is # 89533-35070. If you pull that # up on any Toyota dealership parts page the description says "4x4 control without rear differential lock, except limited". Just a heads up. Maybe it's ok if from a 4Runner limited IDK.

Ok so after writing all the above I just went out to test the ECU. Put it in 4Lo, started the truck and pushed the button. UNBELIEVABLE. It burnt as well. Small little transistor. Any ideas? Pointing at it with pink wire.

 

If you had the same result

If you had the same result with the 2nd ECU then you definitely have a wiring problem somewhere.

Your PIN numbers are correct, just make sure you are connecting them correctly at the ECU.

When looking into the connector ON the ECU, the pins are like this:
43___21
1098765

So lets address the other pins on the ECU that you didn't list
Pin 4 needs to go to the rear diff lock switch pin 2
Pin 5 needs to go to a power source, stock this is the 20A 4WD circuit
Pin 7 needs to go to ground, it does not have to connect with 6&7 on the locker
Pin 8 in stock form this connects to the 4WD system to only allow you to use the locker in 4LO. You can ground this wire instead and use the locker anytime (grey wire mod)
Pin 10 in stock form goes pin 3 on the A connector at your combination meter. This will only allow you to engage the locker at slower than 5mph. If you want it to engage at anytime, you can ground this wire instead. (I personally connected this wire like stock so I don't accidentally engage the locker when driving too fast)
*note: if you want to have the dash light work, you need to connect pin1 from the ECU to the correct terminal in the gauge cluster as well as the locker harness

I suggest you use a continuity tester and trace all of these wires to make sure they are hooked up correctly.

 

Great info NZBROCK. It will come in handy when I wire it up. However all I did now was plug in the ECU to the factory plug under my dash and the switch into the plug behind the dash. Then I pushed the button to see if I would get the blinking light on dash. It wouldn't be solid lit as the locker wasn't wired up. But the ECU fried. Twice. So maybe there is a factory wiring issue. I don't know if it can be easily identified. I don't understand why it would burn up. I did no wiring.

 

At this point I would check to see if that resistor is directly connected to one of the connector pins. That might at least point you in the right direction. If it is, then check the wire that it's connected to. Most likely you have a short to ground somewhere.

 

Yeah so i went and had a guy repair the board with a new resistor and he said it was connected to pin #1. So that is the RLP wire. I noticed on the 2003 wiring diagram you supplied it shows that wire going different routes depending if the truck is a manual or auto. Mine is a manual and the second ECU came from an auto, the first ECU I'm not sure as drivetrain was gone. Could this have anything to do with it?

So my plan now is to go get a new multi meter and then check those wires at the plug. At the suggestion of the guy who fixed the ECU I was going to take the multi meter and put one lead on GND, fire wall or pin #7, and then the other end at each terminal at the plug to test for continuity, right? 0 ohms. I'm lost as to what to do from there. He also suggested to take the ECU that is still fried at that resistor and plug it in and power it up by pushing locker switch and then test the leads for voltage and resistance. Does this sound like a plan? NZ you seem to know your stuff in regards to this wiring.