Eagle Eyes Halo Headlights BLOWING FUSES!!

Guys, I bought these headlights about a year ago and they keep blowing fuses. Initially they didn't but after a few weeks they'd intermittently blow the parking light fuses which is interconnected with the console lighting...the last time they blew was during a thunderstorm a couple months ago...was on a long roadtrip and had to pull the wiring to the lamps in the headlight housing that powers the Halos, turn signals, and side markers, to keep the fuse from blowing.

I've installed a 5amp higher rated fuse and the problem still exists...I'm unsure if I should bump up the rating any higher...

Has anyone else had this problem? is there a simple fix?

Oh, btw, the fuse blows when either lamp is hooked up, right or left...so it's not limited to just one lamp...only way it doesn't blow is to keep both parking lamps (which includes the front turn signals) disconnected...





Please help!!

Thanks

 

thats strange. i have the exact same lights with 85w drives and have never ever ever ever had a problem with fuses blowing. I say check to see again how you wired everything up, and check to make sure your connections are good and tight and (if any) tape isnt leaking causing a short in the system.

 

You really shouldn't increase the fuse rating. They are certain amps for a reason. Increasing the value will cause something more important to melt or burn.

Marc M

 

X2
The fuse rating has nothing to do with the problem.

 

Simple fix... Add a relay. That's what I did. To mine and haven't had a problem since. They just draw a lot of power.

 

I know, you're right about that...but I was in an emergency situation (tornado warnings and vision on the road was significantly reduced...I ran out of the correct fuses during the troubleshooting process)

I just can't figure this one out.

All my connections are good, polarity is correct (for LEDs, as they won't function if they were backwards).

As soon as I make the connection the fuse immediately blows...I haven't tried any fuse higher rated than five amps above what was called for btw.

I think the guy who said to add a relay must be thinking I'm talking about the actual headlamp bulbs..but I'm referring to the side markers and turn indicators...

 

So are you saying you were having a problem with the side markers and turn signals? You added a relay to these? How? Where?

 

MAYBE>>>> have a look inside the asm. is there any signs of excess heat or melting? Alot of these "bright" lights use a higher wattage bulb(s) & then melt. Can you eliminate parts of the circuit(s) to narrow down the short? Hope this helps & gives you some thing to try

BTW, curious, how did they work (Light up the road) compared to stock when they were working properly? They look great

 

Thank you. I read up on the way relays work and how they reduce draw, so thank you. I'll get it fixed this week.

 

They looked great and functioned well, but I had to get used to the pattern the lights emit on the road, somewhat cut off on the top...I think they were designed that way to avoid blinding the drivers ahead.

btw, forgive me, but I don't know what you mean by ASM...

 

You've got yourself a nice gremlin there.

The best, most reliable way to track down a short is to get a good multimeter and start testing. You want to check all the wires against every other wire and against ground. It really sounds like a dead short, so it shouldn't be that hard to track down. You could also take an amp reading on both sides and track it down further like that.

Any other way without a multimeter is basically guessing and will end up taking way longer. And if you don't know how to use one, this is a great time to learn. Electrical gremlins are sometimes hard to track, but the headlight circuitry isin't very complex, so just dive in and start probing!

 

Yea man. Your welcome. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I got mine done professionally just because I didn't know how to wire them.

 

You, without a doubt, have a problem with your taps into your stock parking lights or a short somewhere in the headlight housing. LEDs draw a fraction of what incandescent bulbs draw. Do not upgrade the fuses to anything higher than the recommended amps.

 

Hey patrickockander , sorry I am bad for using abbreviations.
ASM= assembly. The guys are correct about finding a short circuit with a multimeter but, most meters have a 10amp fuse in their amperage circuit that you would pop right away & that fuse is usually quite expensive. Another issue in you case is that you have LED's in the light asm (assembly) LED is the abbreviation for "light emmiting diode" and a diode with only allow current flow in one direction.

 

AND>>>> it worked for a year, right? Wired just like it is. Not to say that it was probably taxing the factory wiring circuit, a relay would "properly" allow the extra current requirement. I don't think a relay at this point would fix your problem. You probably have defective/failed light(s).

An idea to help diagnose,>> remove the headlight asm's. Get your self a couple jumper wires and a handful of fuses 10,15,20,25,30amp.
Connect the headlights through a fuse (starting small) one circuit at a time untill you blow the fuse. Slowly increase the fuse size up. if you get them to work. If you have to get as high as 20 or 25 I would say that there is a problem inside the light.

 

I use "assy" for assembly lol

 

that works too
Off topic but, whats the weather like in Florida?
It is -7* & snowing here in northern BC

 

Well I'm in Gainesville, FL and it's a muggy 85* outside

And a nice sunny beach day in Naples, FL at 89*.

 

You've given me some great ideas. I'm going to try and knock it out right now...will let you know how it turns out.

 

Well, I connected the lights today and can't get them to blow now...so...thinking the storm had something to do with it...must have got water somewhere it shouldn't have been and caused the short...