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Eagle Eyes Halo Headlights BLOWING FUSES!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by patrickockander, Oct 11, 2009.

  1. Oct 11, 2009 at 10:21 AM
    #1
    patrickockander

    patrickockander [OP] Say What?

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    Guys, I bought these headlights about a year ago and they keep blowing fuses. Initially they didn't but after a few weeks they'd intermittently blow the parking light fuses which is interconnected with the console lighting...the last time they blew was during a thunderstorm a couple months ago...was on a long roadtrip and had to pull the wiring to the lamps in the headlight housing that powers the Halos, turn signals, and side markers, to keep the fuse from blowing.

    I've installed a 5amp higher rated fuse and the problem still exists...I'm unsure if I should bump up the rating any higher...

    Has anyone else had this problem? is there a simple fix?

    Oh, btw, the fuse blows when either lamp is hooked up, right or left...so it's not limited to just one lamp...only way it doesn't blow is to keep both parking lamps (which includes the front turn signals) disconnected...




    [​IMG]
    Please help!!

    Thanks
     
  2. Oct 11, 2009 at 7:15 PM
    #2
    snowgod06

    snowgod06 UG legend wannabe

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    crap bolted and welded together....
    thats strange. i have the exact same lights with 85w drives and have never ever ever ever had a problem with fuses blowing. I say check to see again how you wired everything up, and check to make sure your connections are good and tight and (if any) tape isnt leaking causing a short in the system.
     
  3. Oct 11, 2009 at 8:04 PM
    #3
    Marc M

    Marc M Dirty White Boy

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    You really shouldn't increase the fuse rating. They are certain amps for a reason. Increasing the value will cause something more important to melt or burn.

    Marc M
     
  4. Oct 11, 2009 at 8:44 PM
    #4
    Asgard

    Asgard Well-Known Member

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    The fuse rating has nothing to do with the problem.
     
  5. Oct 11, 2009 at 8:45 PM
    #5
    NumNutz

    NumNutz One of the original 7928

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    Simple fix... Add a relay. That's what I did. To mine and haven't had a problem since. They just draw a lot of power.
     
  6. Oct 11, 2009 at 11:04 PM
    #6
    patrickockander

    patrickockander [OP] Say What?

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    I know, you're right about that...but I was in an emergency situation (tornado warnings and vision on the road was significantly reduced...I ran out of the correct fuses during the troubleshooting process)

    I just can't figure this one out.

    All my connections are good, polarity is correct (for LEDs, as they won't function if they were backwards).

    As soon as I make the connection the fuse immediately blows...I haven't tried any fuse higher rated than five amps above what was called for btw.

    I think the guy who said to add a relay must be thinking I'm talking about the actual headlamp bulbs..but I'm referring to the side markers and turn indicators...:confused:
     
  7. Oct 11, 2009 at 11:06 PM
    #7
    patrickockander

    patrickockander [OP] Say What?

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    :confused:

    So are you saying you were having a problem with the side markers and turn signals? You added a relay to these? How? Where?
     
  8. Oct 11, 2009 at 11:18 PM
    #8
    sledbert

    sledbert Member

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    MAYBE>>>> have a look inside the asm. is there any signs of excess heat or melting? Alot of these "bright" lights use a higher wattage bulb(s) & then melt. Can you eliminate parts of the circuit(s) to narrow down the short? Hope this helps & gives you some thing to try

    BTW, curious, how did they work (Light up the road) compared to stock when they were working properly? They look great
     
  9. Oct 11, 2009 at 11:25 PM
    #9
    patrickockander

    patrickockander [OP] Say What?

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    Thank you. I read up on the way relays work and how they reduce draw, so thank you. I'll get it fixed this week.
     
  10. Oct 11, 2009 at 11:28 PM
    #10
    patrickockander

    patrickockander [OP] Say What?

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    They looked great and functioned well, but I had to get used to the pattern the lights emit on the road, somewhat cut off on the top...I think they were designed that way to avoid blinding the drivers ahead.

    btw, forgive me, but I don't know what you mean by ASM...
     
  11. Oct 12, 2009 at 3:46 AM
    #11
    AZFizik

    AZFizik Slowpokeologist

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    You've got yourself a nice gremlin there.

    The best, most reliable way to track down a short is to get a good multimeter and start testing. You want to check all the wires against every other wire and against ground. It really sounds like a dead short, so it shouldn't be that hard to track down. You could also take an amp reading on both sides and track it down further like that.

    Any other way without a multimeter is basically guessing and will end up taking way longer. And if you don't know how to use one, this is a great time to learn. Electrical gremlins are sometimes hard to track, but the headlight circuitry isin't very complex, so just dive in and start probing!
     
  12. Oct 12, 2009 at 6:34 AM
    #12
    NumNutz

    NumNutz One of the original 7928

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    Yea man. Your welcome. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I got mine done professionally just because I didn't know how to wire them.
     
  13. Oct 12, 2009 at 9:03 AM
    #13
    Viet2100

    Viet2100 Well-Known Member

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    You, without a doubt, have a problem with your taps into your stock parking lights or a short somewhere in the headlight housing. LEDs draw a fraction of what incandescent bulbs draw. Do not upgrade the fuses to anything higher than the recommended amps.
     
  14. Oct 12, 2009 at 9:12 AM
    #14
    sledbert

    sledbert Member

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    Hey patrickockander , sorry I am bad for using abbreviations.
    ASM= assembly. The guys are correct about finding a short circuit with a multimeter but, most meters have a 10amp fuse in their amperage circuit that you would pop right away & that fuse is usually quite expensive. Another issue in you case is that you have LED's in the light asm (assembly) LED is the abbreviation for "light emmiting diode" and a diode with only allow current flow in one direction.
     
  15. Oct 12, 2009 at 9:23 AM
    #15
    sledbert

    sledbert Member

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    AND>>>> it worked for a year, right? Wired just like it is. Not to say that it was probably taxing the factory wiring circuit, a relay would "properly" allow the extra current requirement. I don't think a relay at this point would fix your problem. You probably have defective/failed light(s).

    An idea to help diagnose,>> remove the headlight asm's. Get your self a couple jumper wires and a handful of fuses 10,15,20,25,30amp.
    Connect the headlights through a fuse (starting small) one circuit at a time untill you blow the fuse. Slowly increase the fuse size up. if you get them to work. If you have to get as high as 20 or 25 I would say that there is a problem inside the light.:rolleyes:
     
  16. Oct 12, 2009 at 9:29 AM
    #16
    Viet2100

    Viet2100 Well-Known Member

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    I use "assy" for assembly lol
     
  17. Oct 12, 2009 at 9:34 AM
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    sledbert

    sledbert Member

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    that works too :)
    Off topic but, whats the weather like in Florida?
    It is -7* & snowing here in northern BC
     
  18. Oct 12, 2009 at 9:39 AM
    #18
    Viet2100

    Viet2100 Well-Known Member

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    Well I'm in Gainesville, FL and it's a muggy 85* outside :mad:

    And a nice sunny beach day in Naples, FL at 89*.
     
  19. Oct 12, 2009 at 11:44 AM
    #19
    patrickockander

    patrickockander [OP] Say What?

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    You've given me some great ideas. I'm going to try and knock it out right now...will let you know how it turns out.
     
  20. Oct 12, 2009 at 10:38 PM
    #20
    patrickockander

    patrickockander [OP] Say What?

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    Well, I connected the lights today and can't get them to blow now...so...thinking the storm had something to do with it...must have got water somewhere it shouldn't have been and caused the short...
     
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