Easier way to fill Automatic Transmission

I always used the pump that screws on to the top of the ATF bottle to fill my trans and it was a royal PITA! Tried this tonight... Much easier!

Best $5 I've spent in a while

 

I let gravity do all the work!

 

^^^^ This is the ticket ^^^^

 

I also gravity feed,very easy and clean.

 

I just bought an electric battery pump from Amazon for 20 bucks or so, and had my transmission filled in about a minute or so with no fuss, no jack stands, etc. Just had a clean bucket to pour the fluid all into and let it do it's thing(obviously do it after a car wash to make sure there isn't junk that'd fall into the bucket). And of course you can use it for anything else that may need fluid pumping upwards. I just pumped clean water through it until it ran clear afterwards and haven't had any issues.

 

I wonder if that will pump gear oil into the front diff?

 

I love you

 

I use Amsoil squeeze packs.

 

notice any difference after the fluid change?

 

I didn't do a full fluid change, I drained the pan, filled it with 3.5 quarts, checked the level, drove it a while, then repeated that 2 more times. So most of it got replaced, but I'm sure there is some old fluid mixed in. But it does run smoother, the old fluid had become pretty dark and brownish. I took a sample to send off to Blackstone for testing.

 

mine was day and night in shifting after my change..... but that's because the dealership fucked me. undid the overfill plug while cold, and about 2 qts poured out. Engine was also running stupidly loud with the piston slapping....checked the oil... and it was double the oil from the fill mark. In case you're curious, I extracted almost 2 liters from the oil also and the 1gr stopped piston slapping. Now i need an extended warranty in case shit hits the fan and the piston rings give from oil starvation(assuming the frothing from the crankshaft counterweights slowed oil flow from what ive read)

 

I'd document that and make the dealership give you a warranty. Your biggest concern is your bearings. Do you still have the oil you drained? Have you changed the oil since this happened? If you still have the oil sift it and look for metal "glitter". If you have not changed the oil since then, get a sample kit from Blackstone and take a sample when you drain the oil and send it off to them to test. Check the rest for metal and also cut the filter open and look for metal flakes. I'll try to dig up some pics of what your looking for when a 1gr-fe gets starved for oil.

 

Oh it gets even more stupid. I ask them to take a sample for Blackstone and they somehow only managed maybe an oz??? And they put it in a Gatorade bottle knowing I needed a bigger sample. Today I just checked again since it was loud again, and sure enough it was another litre over the mark. He explicitly told me the manager checked again before I left and said it was just under the full mark.. the hell kind of dealership mechanic doesn't even know that oil should be checked cold. And even better, another customer was there at the same time who got an oil change, didn't move the car out of the pickup lane, checked his oil, and it was pitch black clearly not changed. Needlessly to say, it's LA and he went ballistic. The irony too, is that there are signs all over stating it's the #1 Nissan dealership in America(Carson Nissan). Also purchased mine used just a couple months back hence the Nissan dealership.

Edit: the oil sample they gave back to me(idk if it was even from my car, or they forgot and tried to bullshit me). Looks clean outside of tiny black specks which I assume is just old burnt oil. The exhaust also has been looking clear outside of some white smoke in the early drive which I assume is just moisture in the air since it clears up after a bit so I'm trying to get them to at the very least give me a free compression test since i technically don't have evidence of the events happening anyway, and can't do much outside of texts stating the event to the service advisor

 

Short of putting a scope in the cylinders to look for scarring or opening it up to check the bearings about all you can do is drop the lower oil pan and check for metal flakes at the bottom. Here is pics of metal flakes, ("glitter") that got caught in oil filter on 1gr-fe that was starved for oil and damaged the bearings. I have some pics of the metal flakes left in the oil pan even after an oil change, I'll dig those up.

 

You mentioned black specs, is it plastic? Where is the clatter noise coming from? Is it coming from the front of the engine? The cam chain tensioner operates on oil pressure, if you had low oil pressure you could have gotten slack in the chain and the chain chewed up the pad on the tensioner which is black plastic. Also listen near the oil pump under the timing cover, if it runs dry you will here it rubbing on the timing cover. If you have aluminum in the oil it's probable shavings from the timing cover.

 

Nice... But damn, why the hell didn't I think of that!!!??

 

this is the only way to do it

 

Wow this is so smart! Now I don't have to lay on the floor and pump from the bottle when I get to changing my fluid. What size tube did you use?

 

The gravity procedure was mentioned as early as 2017 on the DIY ATD thread; see post #741.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...atic-transmission.68462/page-38#post-15869756

I used to use a Milescraft pump (still have it); It was operated by a drill and it was very vast. However, the prep time to set up and take down was tedious. I now use the gravity method as well. I use 4 feet of Watts clear tube, 1/2" ID and 5/8" OD; got it at home depot; and the OD is just the right size to keep ATF from draining out.

 

This is the way to go, does a quart in like 6 pumps and nice long hoses so you don't have to sit under the truck while pumping. Got mine at Advance auto.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/performance-tool-multi-use-pump-w1145/7071094-P