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Easiest Fastest Way to Set a Fence Post

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by surfsupl, May 19, 2013.

  1. May 20, 2013 at 1:31 PM
    #21
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    Wrong

    Concrete is pourous and will draw moisture out of the ground like a sponge , all that moisture is held against the post with nowhere to go , not to mention seasonal expansion and contraction in the wooden post itself that works to open a gap between the post and the concrete that also traps water
     
  2. May 20, 2013 at 1:38 PM
    #22
    kingston73

    kingston73 Well-Known Member

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    I have a question, I'm about to be doing a short section of fence myself. If concrete rots the wooden fence post and I don't want to pay for this fancy foam stuff, what's left? I already have the fence posts, they are 4x4 and 4 feet tall.
     
  3. May 20, 2013 at 1:47 PM
    #23
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    Good old fashioned stone. Pack it tight enough around the post and it won't move. Item 4 would work if you don't want to use concrete or this foam stuff.
     
  4. May 20, 2013 at 1:59 PM
    #24
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    This unless you have non-draining clay soil
     
  5. May 20, 2013 at 2:02 PM
    #25
    kingston73

    kingston73 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I was about to buy concrete but the crushed stone seems like a better idea. Now I just have to figure put how much I need, I, only setting7 posts.
     
  6. May 20, 2013 at 2:03 PM
    #26
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    If you get crushed stone that contains some fines it works best
     
  7. May 20, 2013 at 2:24 PM
    #27
    Bobbb

    Bobbb "Rumors of Bob, but never Bob. It is Bob, right?"

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    Interesting stuff. I used a mix of 3/8" crushed stone combined with native dirt then hand-compacted like a sumbitch on my last project-

    [​IMG]

    I have to tear out and redo a couple small sections of perimeter fence that I might consider this stuff for. I have to set 4x6 posts 3' deep to stand up to the wind around here, and compacting with that 6' tamping rod sucks balls.
     
  8. May 20, 2013 at 2:28 PM
    #28
    BluTaco

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    I've never heard that concrete rots wood. That's ridiculous. When people talk about concrete most of the time they don't know what they are talking about. Concrete is a mixture of cement, sand, gravel & water. When CEMENT is mixed with water it creates a chemical reaction and cures hard. Sand and gravel are just put in as a filler to minimize the cement required. Cement is what is expensive. Concrete does not have moisture in it to rot wood. Concrete is porous and allows water to pass through that can eventually rot wood. If you use pressure treated wood it will last for years and years (I'm talking 30-40 years). Building code does not allow for structures to bury PT wood for the fact that it will eventually rot out but if you are building a fence then you are just fine. Also, as for installation most people pour in dry concrete for the posts. Level the post and tie them together with 2x4's to ensure they are all straight then go back with the water hose and wet the concrete.
     
  9. May 20, 2013 at 2:39 PM
    #29
    friction

    friction Well-Known Member

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    I love the concept. Just replaced 2 fence posts last week for the first time. I didn't even know this thing existed until then:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. May 20, 2013 at 2:46 PM
    #30
    Pugga

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    Good point to clarify. He lives right down the road from me so I know what kind of soil he's got :)

    :thumbsup:

    And make sure you pack it in really, really well.
     
  11. May 20, 2013 at 3:27 PM
    #31
    OZ-T

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    You're right , concrete doesn't rot wood , water does that , it's the concrete that holds the moisture ( originating from precipitation or moisture content in the soil ) against the post , causing rot

    Pressure treated posts , whether CCA or ACQ can also fail , especially in concrete and I've seen them rot off here in 10 years
     
  12. May 20, 2013 at 5:30 PM
    #32
    Gearheadesw

    Gearheadesw Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, yank a rotted post out, break off the concrete, what's underneath? Nice clean wood. Yeah water is the culprit, concrete is pourous, lets the water flow right past the wood. All the exposed wood at ground level and below the cement looks like shit.
     
  13. May 20, 2013 at 5:32 PM
    #33
    OZ-T

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    Isn't that what I said ?
     
  14. May 20, 2013 at 5:38 PM
    #34
    Gearheadesw

    Gearheadesw Well-Known Member

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    yeah
    still on the rag...sorry
     
  15. Jul 29, 2013 at 10:02 AM
    #35
    zilla68

    zilla68 www.okledlightbars.com

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    reviving this back up, but I noticed this is what the power company uses to set those huge azz power poles, I wondered what that stuff was coming from the top.

    I called this guy when I found he was local, looks like I'm going to test it out pretty soon, when I start replacing concrete poles that the concrete all cracked apart on!
     
  16. Jul 29, 2013 at 10:23 AM
    #36
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    You can pour any concrete mix in and it will harden ground moisture or rain. Built an entire pole barn with dry concrete mix. Seems expensive and a pain to set up pour in the concrete level the post and go away. Looks like expandable foam to me. Most pressure treated posts have a 30 year ground contact guarantee any way who cares if they get wet.
     
  17. Jul 30, 2013 at 4:08 PM
    #37
    SH7mi

    SH7mi Fish On !!!

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    I don't know... My mailbox post is in dirt, does not need concrete or this product. Wood will rot regardless if stuck in the ground, I don't care what it's set in. Most, if not all of the fences in my area (Pennsylvania) are set in the dirt also, no securing needed, 30" to 36" wholes, drop in post, pack with dirt done.

    In 15 to 20 years it is rotted below the surface, no matter the wood species, treated or not.
     
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