Ecgs bushing install - in progress question

Tool pic for those interested

 

in person I cant really see much sticking out anywhere. I was real careful to use a socket that fit perfectly and flipped it so the closed side sat flush against the bushing proving a real solid matinf surface. I then used an extention clicked in to keep the pressure evenly distributed when I struck the extension with the hammer. There really isnt much chance of deformation like this.

 

Installed mine with a little more of 1/4” sticking out and no leaks or vibrations

 

Running my fingfer from the inside, and to the outside there is a small lip I can feel. I included some better pictures (headlamp charged enough to turn on this time), there is no potrusion that I can see or feel.

The bushing at this point is damaged on the i side, when the tool broke it left a pretty good marring. Right now my priority is removing it, and I am uncertain if an ecgs tool will break again. I really dont want to drop the clamshell.

I got te ecgs tool used, so I dont really fault ecgs for the tool breaking. I am still in belief that the bushing is out of spec.

 

The idea of grinding out the bushing makes me nauseous.

 

My only comments to this thread is simple. For anyone about to do this job in the future.

1) make sure cv slides into bushing uninstalled.
2) the bushing side going into diff clean up with light sand paper or file to put an ever - ever so small taper.
3) throw the bushing in the deep freeze for an hour or two. While it’s dry and clean. It will shrink ever so slightly to help get the initial alignment going.

 

sorry .
but most likely way to snap the tool was not having it in the center and only grabing the bushing i think. That way you were pulling on the casting, that's the same way people crack the OEM bushing.
my $.02
trip to autozone for there puller may help .

 

Yea, i figured that was why. But how do you keep it in center if the bushing spins with the tool?

 

The bushing should not spin with the tool, its a press fit. In this picture you posted it appears you chamfered (grinded) the tool to make it fit behind the needle bearing or bushing, were you pulling using the chamfered side? The chamfered side (as pictured) should face the spider gears and the other side (which is flat) should mate up against the bushing or needle bearing as you turn the tool.


Nothing wrong with grinding the tool to make it fit, I had to do the same with mine. Several youtube videos showed the same thing.

 

No, beveled side was inside. I had to bevel the tool it was not even close to getting through the ecgs bushing. When I got one end behind the bushing, i probably had 3/4” more to go on the top.

 

Not an option at this point as the ecgs bushing is marred on the inside. Im not comfortable just sanding the marring down really

 

What’s marred? Looks fine, put it back together, check for leaks

 

If you had a welder you could weld a nut (same thread size) against some heavy flat stock and you'd be back in business with the removal process. Just a thought

 

You smacked that
bushing to hell, file the lip and be done with it.

 

This is probably the best place to start. But get a magnet in there to get the metal out and drain and flush the diff. Do you have calipers to measure the OD of the shaft and the ID of the bushing? I can’t imagine it’s more than a mm of clearance issue unless you got the wrong bushing.

The removal tool isn’t designed to remove their bushing only the bearing. Even removing it with a slide hammer with a pilot bearing puller attachment is going to be difficult because there is very little material to get ahold of.

For everyone else reading this learn the lesson and don’t use sockets as drivers. I know most DIY guys don’t have a proper driver set but they are pretty cheap and they are made from materials less hard than what they are driving. Sockets on the other hand are heat treated to be fairly hard.

 

Clean out all the grease, use a small magnet to pull out metal filings, wipe it out with solvent then take some better pics, it may be better than you think.
It's a bushing, not a bearing and not a seal.
Take some better picks with it surgically clean and let us tell you what may or may not work.
Then maybe some advice on how to fix it in place.

To take it out you will probably have to use a professional inner bearing puller to remove the old bushing without doing further damage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mACnDYAdY-o

 

Hell, you can rent them for free from the auto parts store.

 

did you remove that plastic stuffed in the diff before you tried putting the axle in?

 

Yes, thats just to stop anything from getting back there