ECGS Bushing - Is it a must?

Just saying as a new guy, this would have grabbed my attention. It wouldn't now, obv (look at the ome and fox shit on my truck lol)

 

I have not had any issues with that at all. Maybe it is your particular dealer. I had a rear diff warrantee issue and it was no problem. They did the reflash, and the third brake light and even repaired a tire for free on an airport rental that was not theirs.
I would agree that doing your own 5100's and an add a leaf is cheaper and a bit better than the block they install. I would be curious as to how many warantee issues that shocks and struts actually have. Factory lift is only 1.5" so it likely avoids the needle bearing issue.

 

Trd dealer installed lift is 2.0

 

Well, this isn't subjective at all...

I agree about the warranty, but that pricing seems a little steep. I was quoted about that for the PRO setup with those nifty red UCA's. I think the TRD setup is closer to $1300. I think the point trying to be made was that it won't VOID any factory warranty right out the gate with a new vehicle. For some people, that's a big deal. For us, not so much.

But he's right you know... for 99% of Tacoma drivers, that suspension setup - pricing excluded - is perfect and more than enough.

 

Any guys here recommend a shop to install a 2 inch lift and the new clamshell ecgs bushing in Central NJ/PA area?


I reached out to OK4WD and they quoted $500 for just installing the new bushing alone (parts and labor). They do not install lifts supplied by the customer. Seems high. Also, will this procedure void a warranty?

Essentially, I have 2021 Trd Offroad with approx 5k miles. Going to swap on some TRD Pro fox shocks paired with the new Eibach Springs that were designed for the Trd pro struts for a total of 2 inches of lift in the front and a single AAL in the back. Was hoping to do this bundled with the new bushing in one stop to avoid any future problems.




Thanks in advance,

 

Curious if anyone ever had to replace the needle bearing with the ECGS bushing without having lifted the truck.

Just got mine in the mail today.

 

$500 for the bushing replacement? That shop is on crack. Sounds like a good suspension setup you've got planned though.

I mean as long as there's a jack stand under the driver's side since you need to have the wheel and CV axle out...

 

Lol, what I meant was has anyone with stock suspension ever needed to install the bushing. I do know you have to jack the truck up to do the work!

 

I don't know about needed but I'm definitely going to get it done on the '17 OR that I just picked up, Even though I'm keeping the stock suspension for the time being

 

Sorry for the noob question: When you guys talk about "vibrations" is it like an out of balance wheel vibration, steering wheel shimmy type of thing <<OR>> is it more like a droning, buzzing like, I dunno...like maybe a cell phone vibrating on the dash? (struggling for a better description here)

 

Roads are so bad where I live I'd be hard pressed to notice it lol. I suspect it's a noticable vibe though. Probably felt in the steering wheel and on flat we'll paved roads. I can't say for sure because I have not experienced it, but a wheel vibe sounds about right.

 

It almost feels like a cell phone vibrating on and off. Buzzes then stops, buzzes than stops. I could hear it too. Makes almost a slight groaning noise when it does it.

 

It is a vibration that oscillates. mine did it around 45mph. Drive it and when you feel the vibration click it in to 4hi and it should stop. If it does, it is the bearing.

 

I can't give you the name of a shop since I am in Tennessee, But just for reference, I had mine installed for 205.00 parts and labor.

 

I wrote that illustration years ago, before the realization that 3rd Gens have a purported 2-3 degree operating angle at the 1st u-joint; 0-1 degree is not really feasible.
In the illustration, after 0-1 degrees is achieved at the first joint, it basically treats the remaining joints as a one-piece shaft with standard u-joints; remaining joints must be equal.
In short, you can't use it on 3rd gens unless you lift the carrier bearing to achieve 0-1 degree at the first joint.

 

YUP... that's it. Much better description from you guys - THANK YOU. Of course, I'm about 2K miles past the warranty.

 

Warranty won't actually cover replacement of the needle bearing. Which means it's a good time for you to get the ECGs pushing installed

 

Yeah - warranties are fickle. I see them as lottery tickets of sorts - maybe covered, maybe not. I read somewhere that Toyota issued a TSB for the needle bearing, so technically they know it's an issue and should replace it. Gonna make absolutely sure I'm not imagining this phantom vibration - it's very light, and I have to really pay attention to hear or feel it. We do a fair amount of trail driving/ off-roading and I tow a trailer which puts added load on the front end (weight distributing hitch). So I'm kinda leaning towards that ECGS anyway. As others have said - cheap insurance. Gonna have to ask my tech at the dealership if they're winkling to do an aftermarket part install or find someone down here. Miami being the scam/fraud capitol of the world...I'm leery.

 

Got my 2018 TRD OR lifted about 3" (Kings, Icon UCA, AAL, 285/75/16s) and after an alignment, got the hum. It sounds and feels like running over subtle rumble strips on the road. I had a local shop install the ECGS bushing (about $500 for the part plus install) and the hum was gone.

 

That is a great graphic, but there is a slight problem with it. U-joints need angle to function correctly. If they run at zero angle, the load transfers through the needles in a single spot and brinell, destroying the joint really quickly. With working angle, the needles are constantly rolling around and spread the load preventing the brinelling effect.