ECGS Bushing - Is it a must?

They replaced it under warranty with no problems. I bought it used like it is and not from them. The dealership was great didn't give me any problems. I figure since its free I did it and if the problem comes back I'll do the bushing after warranty is out and I got a new dif out of it.

 

@evoxtaco just watched a YouTube video that sounds like what you're experiencing. Apparently it's something minor that sounds worse than it is. Check it out and report back.

https://youtu.be/EYRI9HU7DdQ

 

Good to know they didn’t hassle you over the lift.

 

I'm stock height but changed it anyway. There's already alot of slop on driver side axle. Pretty simple install if you have the ecgs puller and a race bearing driver set (highly recommended).

 

Just went to dealer and they wont repair needle bearing since I put after market shocks and lift on my Tacoma. He even told be they use an after market bushing to replace it. I am so mad. 17000 miles on my 16 trd sport.

 

Hold up...they use an aftermarket bearing to replace it? I wonder of its smooth like the ECGS or just an improved OEM version. That's shitty they wouldn't replace it. You may want to call around, every dealer will tell you something different. You might get lucky and find one willing to do the work.

 

You installed aftermarket parts which brought issue to light. It's a non issue on stock height tacomas. Why should they have to foot the bill?

 

I put a 1" lift on mine, got the hum, installed the ECGS bushing - problem solved. I knew what I was getting into and fully expected to be accountable for the outcome. It seems you've pushed your lift to 2.5". I really don't understand peoples' expectations of dealers; granted, some are problematic and I had to make a stink when they refused to properly inspect my fluid levels. It's why they only get recall and warranty work from me.

 

I installed the ECGS bearing last summer after my Tacoma got a new frame and 2" lift. I did it more as a precaution because my truck had 100k miles on it at the time but I didn't notice any vibration after the lift was installed.

Even after reading all of the threads on here about the install, borrowing the tools from another member and trying all the tips and tricks, it was still a huge pain in the ass, just like when I replaced the front wheel bearings years ago. I don't remember how long it took because I damaged the new oil seal when I was pounding it in and had to wait a day to get another new seal from the dealer. I'd say it was a solid 6 hours across two days, at least.

First, the CV axle wouldn't come out easily and I had to use a large pry bar to pry it out, bending the metal lip in the process. Of course I couldn't drain the diff because the drain plug was seized and I didn't estimate the amount of gear oil that would pour out so I then proceeded to make a big mess on the driveway. Thankfully I have a seal puller so getting the old seal out was probably the easiest part of the whole project. I then spent a couple of hours trying to get the ECGS removal tool to fit and ended up grinding the tabs just enough to fit without affecting the strength of the tool. Around that time I realized that I didn't have a wrench big enough to fit the nuts on the removal tool so I had to make a trip to O'Reilly's for a 22mm wrench because my adjustable wrenches wouldn't provide enough clearance to work.

Getting the old bearing out was fairly straightforward once I got the tool to fit and I found that a pair of vise grips worked well for holding the headless bolt while I turned the nuts with my newly acquired wrench. Pounding the new bearing in took longer than I thought because there wasn't much clearance to swing a hammer and it was tough to keep the bearing straight. Once I got the new bearing all the way in I thought I was home free until I went to pound in the new oil seal and damaged it on the crusty lip of the diff housing even after I smoothed it out with some emery cloth. Realizing it was a Sunday afternoon and any local place that carried a replacement oil seal wouldn't be open until the next morning, I threw in the towel on day one and cracked open some beers.

The next morning I picked up another oil seal and carefully managed to pound it into place with a 2" PVC plumbing cap, although like the installation of the new bearing it was a real pain the ass trying to swing a hammer in such a tight space. The last challenge was popping the CV axle back in to the diff which I found is almost impossible to do without a second set of hands. Thankfully my dad was around and helped me manhandle that SOB back into place so I could get the truck back on the road. I had plans to change the diff oil, but since I couldn't get the drain plug loose all I could do is top it off and deal with changing it another day.

My advice - if you really want to do it yourself, give yourself an entire day so you're not rushed and make sure you have a spare oil seal.

My advice for those of you with rusty trucks - pay someone else to do it.

 

Good to hear it all worked out. My install was similar with trying to get the cv axle back in, had to use a 10lb sledge, maybe because it was almost new at 4K miles.

The biggest mistake I did was not use the plastic bags in the diff and I dropped the end of the removal tool inside the diff. Not good, I had to use my fishing and fly tying skills to get it out. Dropped the line in and tied it to the end of the tool through the drain hole then pulled it back through the fill hole.

Another thing, the tool really snaps in place between the old bearing and cv sleeve and uuu have to line it up perfectly vertical to thread the tool bolt into it.

In the end, it all worked out, changed out the front suspension and diff fluid, too.

 

I remember following along your thread as it was happening. It was a roller coaster of emotions all around.

 

It was definitely, wouldn’t have made it through without the forum. Plus, I couldn’t tow my truck the entire front suspension was off with the axle out, etc.

 

Come over to my garage. I've done a few of them now for local members.

I think I'm down to like two hours with beer and smoke breaks.

 

hahha that's my mentality, trucks seen 13 harsh winters. I had my fill of seized parts and rusted bolts when I did my lift so ill happily pay the gear shop to do it for me.

 

Knowing what I know now I could probably do it in two hours or less.

It probably would've been easier with the suspension removed. I think I did end up unbolting the ball joint bracket from the spindle to give me more room to work.

 

A lift makes things easier.

 

For sure. Zip tie that shit out of the way and get in there.

 

If you do decide to do it, there's only a few things to remove. Remove spindle dust cap to gain access to and loosen axle nut (35mm). Remove two 19mm bolts that join LCA to spindle on the bottom near lower ball joint. Now you can manuver the spindle around. Leave loosened 35mm axle nut on while using a dead blow hammer to push out outer axle from spindle side. I used a small piece of 2x4 and a 4 lb mallet to do this so I wouldn't damage anything. Remove axle from spindle side and put it aside. To pop out axle from front diff you'll have to remove front skid plate. With a pry bar and a heavy mallet you can tap out the axle using the tabs on it (same technique used on install). My truck was jacked up at a high angle and I only lost an oz of gear oil when the axle popped out. When and if you want to add gear oil, loosen both 10mm Allen socket for the fill and drain and retorque them when done (it's torqued really tight from factory). Stuff a small piece of plastic bag in the housing before you attempt to remove needle bearing just in case you damage it in the process and fish out any pieces if you did. Remove OEM needle bearing with ECGS puller. Use a race bearing driver (recommended) to drive in ECGS bushing flush with the carrier (see ECGS install FAQs on ECGS website). Remove plastic bag that you put in earlier. Pop axle in the same way you removed it. Reinstall and retorque everything to specs (I don't remember the torque specs off the top of my head even if I had just done it, sorry). Hope this helps anyone willing to DIY. The toughest part I encountered was removing the axle cover on the spindle without damaging it. Lol.

 

Yes, if your needle bearing breaks things could get REALLY expensive. Don't risk it, it's the most common cause of vibes

 

if you've seen the underside of my truck nothing is easy