ECGS bushing replacement and write up to follow

thanks

 

I have a tool for it but just doesn't want to go any further. The first part went it really easily. Then just gets stuck.

Maybe I don't have it squared up. And was told to use smaller hits so it stays square

 

when we did mine, mine was hard to get in all the way as well. we ended up finding a long piece of pipe, to insert over the end of the race driver. then we beat it gently with a BFH till she got home.

 

I'd try the BFH has suggested. Squaring it up is essential when starting out, I assume once its in there that it would "self correct" and align itself with all thats left is to drive it home.

You could take a measurement on the edge say the 6 & 9 o clock position to ease your mind about it being square but mine did take some good hits as mentioned above to get it all the way in. I just opted to leave a 1/8" sticking out to avoid issues. The bushing itself is a pretty robust item and w/the right tool (slightly larger diameter) I doubt you'll damage it.

 

just placed my order vibes be gone we hope

 

for anyone doing the oil seal as well as the bushing, a 2" PVC coupler fits over the seal perfectly.

 

Any suggestions from Vermonters on a trusted shop that can do this replacement for me?

 

Yes get a seal.

 

You guys using bfh to get the bushing to seat are doing it wrong. Mine walked in with very light tapping on a socket with a small ball peen hammer.

 

Installed a mild (1 3/4") lift last Friday night and when I took it out for a test drive I immediately got the rumble strip effect. I was so pissed. Anyway, I just got off the phone with ECGS. Bushing should be delivered Wednesday. Rediculous Toyota is still producing front diffs with those needle bearings.

 

Maybe a silly question, but I was wondering if both sides have a needle bearing? If so why does only the left side need the replacement. This seems to be a slop or tollerance issue (to much play in OEM form). How come the passenger side doesn't need the bushing?

 

The left side has ball bearings which seem to handle a lift fine. The right side has the needle bearings with the sloppy tolerances.

 

Great information. Have the bushing, axel seal, and removal tool. Gonna pick up that habor freight race driver set. Gonna tackle this project next week.

 

Aaaahhhhhh - Thanks!!! Good to know Looks like I have a new project on my hands now

 

Me too. I pulled the CV axle last night. Was a peice of cake. I left my truck on jacks waiting on my ECGS shipment to arrive tomorrow.

 

Install went pretty smoothly. You do have to give that peice of the removal tool that goes on the inside of the needle bearing a whack or two to get it to clear bearing - it is a very tight fit. I had to go back and watch the ECGS video to double check that it was needed.

Took forever to wrench out the needle bearing as I didn't have a ratcheting wrench big enough. Reseating the new bushing was straight forward. Line it up and keep tapping it in. I left about 1/8" sticking out. I did replace the seal while I was at it. Was able to do the whole thing with only removing the two bolts on the bottom of the LCA/Knuckle connection.

If anyone is thinking about doing theirs and needs a removal tool, I'm happy to loan mine out.

 

depends what you mean by "play". That sounds more like the steering rack bushing issue:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/05-v6-tacoma-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.289436/

 

Is the needed typically? And does it matter if it's the full OME setup vs standard 5100?

 

It's one of those preventative mods even if you're not experiencing vibes after lifting the truck. You have everything apart, might as well dive in and replace that shitty part toyota manufactured. I thought i had the vibes and immediately ordered the bushing but turns out it was nothing but eventually will take care of it along with a new axle seal.

 

How long is the labor normally If someone is doing it for you?