ECGS bushing replacement and write up to follow

PM'd

 

probably a dumb question, but i’m going to install the bushing tomorrow, what did you guys use to tap it in? i figured a socket that fit around it would work.

 

I used different pucks out of a ball joint kit similar to these
I then finished it off with a socket once the pucks wouldn't work for me due to their size/depth after driving it further into the differential.

Whatever you use just make sure you tap it in slowly and keep checking to make sure that it is working properly or not. It took me a while to get it in because I would tap.... then check.... then tap... etc.
Good luck.

 

Oreilly or Autozone rents the drivers

 

So Ive got a dumb question, which side do you disassemble to replace the bushing?

My passenger side cv nedds replaced and I figured if I was there I would do the bushing if I can.

 

Driver side.

For people saying left or right, left or right is determined when you are sitting in the driver seat.

 

If anyone has their puller tool available, please shoot me a PM!! Thanks!!!

 

Finally got mine replaced. The needle bearing was in tact but one of the needles is clearly out of position, and was probably causing the oscillating, cyclical, rhythmic l rumbling vibration I had at 30-40 mph. (intentionally adding words for forum searchers). Thanks for everyone's tips. I used a bearing race driver tool rented from Autozone to install the bushing. I was able to do the swap only disconnecting the two bolts for the ball joint knuckle and I removed the bumpstop with a giant pair of channel-locks for more clearance to tap the bushing in. Beating on the CV axle was not making much progress, but I was able to remove it easily with two prybars placed at about 5 & 9 o'clock. When pulling the old bearing, I did notice the tool was such a tight fit, if I spun the puller nut slowly, the diff would just turn. Quickly spinning the nut would actually make progress pulling it.

*tool sold

 

If I was to go with a lift soon, installed by a shop...would most shops know how to do something like this? Assuming they have the tool I guess

 

My guess is no, the one Toyota shop by me did say they new how and have done some. I forget what they wanted for labor but it was outrageous! It is not that hard to do yourself, even better if you have someone to help. The videos and instructions ECGS give are good.

 

I had a small shop do mine. Explained where the bushing was and I gave them the ECGS puller tool. Any competent shop should be able to do this. He only charged me 1.5 hours of labor.

 

If one does it themself, i found that the trickier part that might be a little hard to interpret from photos is how far to set the seal when putting the seal back into the diff. Mine leaked the 1st time, and it sucks to see that dripping and know that you have to take it back apart over a 12 dollar seal. The depth of the seal would be one of those details i would advise one doing this themself to be sure on beforehand.

 

Install seal flush to be safe

 

Reviving this. How hard is it to pull the seal?

 

https://youtu.be/mh1BK5--KrU

Looks easy enough with the right tools. This vid is for a 3rd gen 4runner, but it should be similar on a Tacoma.

 

The seal pulls out easy. I have a cheapy seal puller from harbor freight that made it a breeze, but I could do it without it if I felt like it.

 

Awesome thanks.

So just to confirm, I don't have to pull the entire axle off right? That would be a huge pain in the ass. According to some posters there are two bolts connecting to the lca i'm assuming that just need to be removed, then the axle can swing freely? Does anyone have pictures or can confirm?

 

I had to pull the entire driver side axle when I did mine.

 

I'm hopefully replacing mine this weekend. The bushing tool will likely be available a couple weeks later once I verify everything is running smoothly.

 

I just replaced my drivers side CV axle yesterday for the 1st time. It is one of the easier maintenance things I’ve done because you can’t screw it up. I removed the 2 LBJ bolts and the tie rod which enabled the rotor and caliper to swing towards the rear of the truck. I did not touch the sway bar. I used a ratchet strap around my drivers side Jack stand to hold the caliper and rotor out of the way.

To pull the axle get some cable that will fit in the gap between the diff and axle. Make a noose that fits in that gap tight and run the cable over the top of the axle. Make another noose and put your sledge in it. Give it a good swing and see if it moves? If it did get use your pry bar to continue to pull it out. If it didn’t move rotate the axle and give the black part a tap. Give it another swing. Mine took two swings and was obvious when it moved.

I didn’t get the right piece to install a new seal and it appears I am lucky so far. Install is 5.5 mm if I remember correctly though and I have the seal. I didn’t do the ECGS bushing but it looks very easy.

Installation was as simple as inserting it and turning the spline until it locked in a little. Then put the tip of your pry bar on the housing and tap it in. Rest the splines on another jack stand to keep the axle level. I needed a 2nd person here to hit the bar as I held it in place. 3 hits and it was home.

To remove the dust shield I used my benchmade and gave it a tap in to start. Then I was able to use a screw driver. Put a weight on the brake pedal to remove the axle nut.

To get the shaft back through I sat in front of it and hugged it and manipulated both pieces until I achieved the magic angle. This was the hardest part and took 45 seconds.