ecm issues.

Should, but if monitors don't show "ready" it may not log them as they aren't "ready".

You have ability to read live data on the move, make a shield for the radiator and cover 3/4 of it. Drive truck normally watching temps. Once it reaches 200ish keep watch and keep driving. Just be mindful of overheating.
I may have asked this before, are you using OEM T-Stat ? Aftermarket are pretty vague in the accuacy department.
Maybe temp sensor isn't accurate ?

 

The stock OEM thermostat is 180, where are you getting your information? https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1145476&cc=1364723&jnid=497&jpid=10

 

Anyone know how to test this ecu? Not just it's power and ground but the logistics of the computer.

 

Suggest to disconnect the battery for a minute or two. So you clear everything in the ECM, and drive it for about 15 minutes. Then go get the emissions rechecked again. When they plug in their worn out cable in, that's been used a million times. Try to hold it in place so it's making good contact with your OBD 2 pins. This will avoid any bogus readings, if your still having issues. Ask for them to check it with another cable and scanner.

 

My truck always has run at 185 ish. The only time I have ever seen it break 205 was when my radiator was cracked.

 

I'm not talking about the temperature that the thermostat opens, I'm talking about the engines optimal operating temperature.

My 2000 3.4 for example runs at about 209 degrees max. Right at boiling point. so with the op saying his truck runs at 180, I think his motor isn't getting hot enough to allow the final drive cycle tests to run.

 

Yes I have disconnected the cables and left them connected to one another for 20 min. I have used my own scanner and a friend's scanner to check if the monitors are ready or not.

 

You can rule out all this "not warmed up" talk.
Toyota considers 176F as "warmed up enough"and 203F is the max for both the 4 and 6cyl.

Yeah, X2.
This is definitely a teaser with all the other data showing and assuming all the "drive cycle" requirements have been met.

 

This is what happens when your engine runs too cold, under 170 degrees. http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0125 I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish, if it's not throwing any codes what is the problem?

 

I still day drive the truck 5-10 miles, or until it passes 195f.

 

209 is close to the boiling point for water at sea level in an open environment (212), but not the boiling point for antifreeze under pressure.

 

Billybob50 my monitors won't set so I cant pass emissions. I don't know why the monitors won't set. I have driven the car up till now for 489 miles to work and back 5 days a week. The car won't go up to 189 coolant temperature. I am suspecting the ecm us the problem. Have any advice?

 

maybe your coolant temp sensor is bad. if your engine, with a proper thermostat, won't even get to 200 degrees via the OBD readout, you probably have a bad coolant temp sensor.

 

Dirty pool, thanks for that it was hard getting a definitive answer. I don't think it's the coolant system not bejng warmed up I printed out and followed the procedure for setting the oxygen monitors and heater from Toyota and followed it to the letter but still nothing.

Oxygen sensor not ready
Oxygen sensor heater not ready
EVAP system not ready
Catalytic converter not ready

 

Rzgkane, I can see the temperature via the live data on my scanner and the temperature increases and decreases. But before I start changing sensors, do you think it is weird that no matter what I unplug ignition coil, iac, map sensor oxygen sensor, the computer does not throw a check engine light.

 

Do you think that's an issue? It makes me belive that there is an issue with the ecm rather some random external sensor.

 

Sensors like the coolant temp sensor are known to fail in a manner that makes them inaccurate. I had a Mazda 3 case a while back in which the trans would go into limp mode (no 5th gear) while driving in hot temperatures. Mazda was adamant that the car was working properly and the car's systems were doing what they were designed to do. We pulled the trans fluid temp sensor out and bench tested it and it was off by almost 9 degrees. That was enough for the car's computer to think it needed to go into protection mode when in fact it did not.

 

I see, but I'm sure the cars computer threw a code. Your Mazda recognized there was something wrong which it does what it's supposed to do. My computer will read zero misfires when an ignition coil is in plugged and running no check engine light what so ever.

 

If the computer is programmed to prevent the system from going into "closed loop" unless the coolant reaches a certain temp, the inability of the computer to see that temp (because the coolant is not warm enough or the sensor is inaccurate) could very well be your problem. The sensor is probably $20. That's an inexpensive diagnostic expenditure in my opinion. Sorta like when I was a tech and the old Mitsubishi oil pressure warning lights used to come on while at freeway speeds. We could charge the customer $100 to test his oil pressure and then replace the sensor if it's bad (another $50), or we could replace the sensor and see if that fixes it!

 

The question you need answered then is whether it is normal for an ECM to ignore faults unless they occur when in closed loop. If it is, then you know why it's not logging fault codes even though you are creating situations that are clearly problems. If not, then you probably do have a bad ECM.

Remember, a sensor can be bad simply because it's inaccurate, but not set a fault code because it is within parameters the computer expects to see during normal operations. If closed loop is set to not occur until 195 degrees, and at a true 196 degrees your coolant temp sensor says it's 194 degrees, the sensor is bad and causing problems.