ECT Stealth PRO shift knob

That would work well. I was thinking of a single switch solution with 4 cameras. I looked up the cost of a 12V AND gate and they run a whole $0.73 in singles.

 

See comment 1872 and 1879

 

Hmm, would we be able to adapt this so that we use 3 cameras, (front, back, cargo) while only using a single switch trigger?

 

I only got $115 shipped for my v1 stage 2 complete knob...I started at $140 shipped. GLWTS

 

It’s not like the old days when batches were sold out in under a min. (Heart pumping, hands sweating, eye twitching) And you could get retail full price/shipped and 2nd owner Shipping. Things are molded now And mostly in quantity and unless it’s a deal the originals don’t go as quick. Unless you time it right before a long dry spell and before a drop

 

Just got my stage 2 DIY kit! @MESO Thanks for the great service and the quick fix for USPS losing my order.

 

What’s the difference between the V1 and V2?

 

V2 has molded plastic parts vs printed. Smoother edges. Also has longer plug leads on shifter end for easier install.

 

Got the V2 wired up. Everything works great. The left side trigger is for ECT. The right side trigger is wired into my garage door opener.

 

How do you know which version you have? I just purchased some last week

 

The wiring harness or the molded switches. Look at the 1st post for pictures of the original

 

V1=Red and black(short) wires coming off the stealth switches
V2=all black(long) wires coming off the switches.

Nothing wrong with the old version, the new one is just refined and polished

 

V1 has very short leads to the connection as seen here.

 

Have any pictures of your soldering job... just curious.

 

Received my stealth knob yesterday.

I was startled for a second when I pulled out the plastic and two red switch pieces fell out. I thought “what!” @MESO wants me to build it myself !!

then I explored further and found the complete knob~phew!

 

Those are the original inserts I include them. Just in case you’d want to got back to stock?

 

Stock! No way...I am a one trick pony kinda person.

I am awaiting for my USB button from Amaz arriving today before I even start the stealth modification. One time good deal -GI.

 

Smart, would have never thought of that. You have any pictures of the inside connections?

 

Unfortunately I didn't take any as I was in a hurry to just get it done. Here is a link to a horrible video that shows you how to find the solder points for the wires in your garage door opener. https://youtu.be/Ukf58xMGZeY

Put your multimeter in resistance (ohms) and then start touching the negative and positive to different solder points on the board of the opener. Once you touch the correct ones your door will open. Test it a few more times to make sure you have the right points. Once you can open or close it with ease, take some wire and solder it to the board of the clicker. I then hooked up the wire harness to the shifter button harness and it works great. I hid the garage door clicker on the stereo wires and zip tied it to them. That way when I need to change the battery I only need to pull the stereo surrond panel off and will have easy access.

 

See post 2199, it has a crappy video that someone else did showing how to do it.