EFI gone wrong

I recently ordered a cali raised rack with all the lights and have been reviewing videos on install and wiring. I installed raptor lights on my grill almost a year ago and a tapped a fuse onto the EFI circuit because I wanted them to stay on whether the lights were on or not and on at all times with the headlights and brights. Everything was good till in my present research, I discovered that I might have the tap in the opposite direction as it should be. I followed some videos here on that subject and ended up cutting a 10 amp fuse in half to determine the hot side of the circuit. Found it and yes I had the tap facing the wrong direction. Unfortunately when I now try to start the truck its as if its not getting any gas. A check of fuses notes them good. Yep I read about tapping into such circuits and now my stomach is in knots. Can anybody help in this matter. Wondering if I'm going to have to replace the fuse box.

 

I tested the fuel pump relay and the copn relay (efi) by switching out the horn relay and stop lamp control relay with no start.

 

A few thoughts here. First, how did you "tap" into a fuse? I'm assuming you wrapped a wire around the leg of a fuse - which is wrong in so many ways. The only safe way to tap into a circuit is to use something like an Add-a-Fuse.

Littelfuse Lp Mini Add-A-Circuit: 1-10 Amp, Black W/ Red Wire, Fuse Holder, 1 + 4 FUSES Pack FHLM0200ZPA - Advance Auto Parts

Assuming that you just wrapped a wire, your problem could be as simple as having spread the contacts too far apart in the fuse box and no longer getting current to flow through the fuse. If this is the case, a little creative re-forming of the contacts may be in order. Have you tried a test light on each test contact on top of the fuse?

Speaking of fuses, why did you have to "cut a fuse in half" to find out which side of the fuse was which? All you need to do is pull the fuse, then use a test light on each side of the fuse holder.

Finally, I never - and I repeat never - recommend tapping anything into a "mission critical" circuit on the fuse box (such as the EFI circuit) for any accessory. Why? Because you can find yourself stranded when the accessory blows your mission critical fuse. But then you've already discovered this.

 

Second off, EFI fuse is a bad one to tap into on your 2014. It turns on and off frequently after the truck has been running for HOURS, so your lights are going on and off all the time. I know this because the default installation of the supercharger for the 2nd gen Tacoma taps the same spot and then the intercooler water pump is running when the truck is off.

So first, I would recommend another place to tap, but since you’re already having issues, I would just recommend removing the raptor lights.

 

Turns out fuse #21 the 20 amp for the EFI-Main shorted out. I can't say I wasn't forewarned on this site when researching where to tap into. Not running the lights at present while I enact plan B. The problem started when I researched installing lights on a roof rack I will be installing. While doing that I came across a couple of videos commenting the correct placement of tap fuses, that being, there is one side of the tap's prongs that is to be inserted on the hot side of the connection, the tap wire side coming out on the negative. So I decided I better check that and since my probe did not register any reading, this being prior to any problem, I took the next step as suggested in one of the videos to cut a fuse in half and place it into one of the sides of the connections where the fuse inserts. It was at this point that when I touched the probe to the top part of the half fuse that I inserted into one side that it sparked slightly. OK that's the hot side of the fuse connection and according to the video I had the tap in backwards, though things had been working without a problem. I switched the direction of how I had placed the tap fuse into the connection and that's when the vehicle would just turn over and over without starting. This being the case even if I placed it to how I originally had it. Fixed now with the cost of a 20 amp fuse but my stomach might have permanent damage from thoughts of impending electrical doom.

 

Can you post a picture of the "tap fuse" you're talking about?

 

I followed the instructions in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NW0QaQaU41Y The correct position for the tap would have the wire that is attached to the tap facing away from the box. This position however will not allow the cover to be placed back on which is shown in the middle pic below. The fuse that actually blew is on the opposite side of the box and is the 20 amp in the bottom photo. It also is an EFI fuse. $5.50 at Autozone for a mini assortment to replace it. So I'm back to square one on how to wire the lights to stay on constantly when the truck is running. I have upgraded headlights to include LED DRL's. Seems the thing to do would be to connect into that circuit/wiring which is not installed into any fuse box. Anybody done that? Last thing I would want to do next is to short out my headlights. Is there a link here were someone has done that?