My Big Can of Worms Build

Still working on the research proposal. Good times. Figured I'd document one of my parts troves in my bedroom


Anyone want those fenders? Glassworks 4.5" over - don't need'm since I bought my 6.5 inchers! $300 obo

 

my wallet hurts....

 

It's not even Black Friday! lol

 

Got some help from a neighbor who's also an engineer and used to work on rally cars and installed the pilot bearing, 38 lb flywheel from LCE and a clutch:





I had to put numbers on the clutch bolts since they're not straight apart from each other and it was too hard for my brain to focus on what bolts I had done lol.

 

Hehehe got a good deal on some used coilovers... Maybe you saw someone selling icons extended... Might've bought them... Probably buying solo motorsports ucas tomorrow, best deal I've seen.
Something is supposed to show up tomorrow... Gonna tease and let ppl guess what it is on OC .... pardon my grammar lots of booze tonight...

 

That was some next level incomprehensible shit haha, mad props. What is this week's feeling on long travel parts @Dalandser, I am almost 100% on the SOLO kit and custom length ADS shocks.

 

Do it! I just talked to Paul tonight about the xlt kit - time to kiss some paychecks into oblivion! Their 20% off sale on standard lt kits goes until Monday. Is that what you're looking at or are you trying to live out of your truck like me?

 

I can't do the XLT kit, it's just too wide for the wheeling I really like to do. But I am thinking of starting with the base SOLO LT kit running it with some really nice shocks and when I've worked out all the kinks, then changing to the fully fabbed spindle.

 

That's the best deal out there - it's like $1750 on sale without axles and it has heimed uppers. I was reading some OG jberry stuff and he said you should just solid mount your lowers and get alignment with heimed uppers to save money and time on not having to do cam tab gussets - I'm taking his advice on that one lol.

 

That's how the XLT kit is designed to work. There's no reason I couldn't do that either, plenty of adjustment for camber and a bit for caster. Might have to dial a bit of the caster out of the lower before solid mounting, which would be super careful cycling and turning to make sure there is no scrubbing.

 

lol I guess I should have said if I didn't go with the xlt. This week I've been hemming and hawing about it - BTF makes a 4.5" 4x4 kit. But I'd probably end up getting close to the cost of the xlt after trying to keep manual hubs with fabbed spindles lol.

 

Don't keep the manual hubs, if you can make your own ADD actuator circuit there really isn't much reason to keep the manual hubs. They're great for the nostalgia factor but they suck to find LT axle shafts for and they have a weaker outer joint and smaller shaft diameter. That is one reason the solo is such a good option, the shafts they give you add D44 outers and u-joints.

 

Yeah I found RCV would make them for $700 - that was the point where it didn't seem like there was a better way to keep the things I like without ending up at the same price. So would I need to keep any vacuum stuff in the diff or could I get rid of it and just switch the transfer case into 4x4 and be good to go once I lock the hubs? It's one system I'm unfamiliar with - I'll be getting more familiar with it once I tear into it and replace my current diff with a locker.

 

Well, if you have ADD now, then keep it, when you're out of 4WD it helps reduce rolling resistance. If you have manual hubs now after the SOLO conversion it would be like they're permanently locked. So, yeah just the tcase lever would be necessary, but it would be ideal to have ADD so you can disconnect the front so that the front driveline stops spinning too.

 

Alright so that's my question - would taking the transfer case out of 4x4 keep the front driveshaft from spinning? Otherwise wouldn't the front hubs being unlocked disconnect the diff from the driveline (any spinning) in 2wd? With my ADD diff and my current manual hubs the aussie locker will still make crazy sounds going on the freeway which meant it was spinning (well the one time I drove it on the freeway on the way home from buying it lol)

 

Taking the tcase out of 4x4 still leaves the front spinning because the front hubs are locked. At this point it isn't under power, it is just a parasitic loss because it's dead weight being driven by the front wheels turning. The reason this all seems confusing is because you have half a manual hub conversion if you still have your ADD diff. If you unlock your front hubs and have the tcase in 2WD then the front driveshaft isn't spinning and the CVs aren't spinning.

If you had ADD and normal hubs then with the tcase in 2WD the front diff tube on the passenger side would disengage the stub shaft in the diff and you would still be turning CVs but because there is no resistance on the passenger side of the diff it would just free wheel through its spider gears. This would be the ideal way with the SOLO XLT or fully fabbed spindle because they can't accommodate manual hubs. Alternatively you could leave the ADD diff engaged and have the front driveline spin all the time it would just wear parts that don't need to be worn in 2WD.

Clear as mud, because you still have an ADD diff (you're just cheating keeping it locked solid like a manual diff) you could just use that to keep your front end from wearing and being a parasitic draw in 2WD once you delete the manual hubs.

 

@Speedytech7
@Nicklovin

 

It was a good Thanksgiving

 

From what you remember.

 

Remember it very clearly, I was one of the few who woke up the next morning perfectly fine haha.

On a different note you wouldn't by chance have some time free after the second week of December? I have some coil overs and uniball ucas to install after school ends. Originally Danny was going to help me, since I'm clueless, with the install but he broke his arm so.