El Honcho - 1st Gen Taco build

BRAKEMOTIVE76 is fucking me without lube

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Brak...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

BUMP for WORTHLESS FEDEX!!!!!!!!

FUCK MY LIFE! This has been the worst experience ever. Bought the 13wl combo on Ebay. Ebay only provided ONE tracking number to me even though my package shipped as two boxes. Each box gets a tracking number in the event that it is lost in transit. My parcel arrived Saturday, 8 days after purchase. I open the box and only have rotors. Immediately contact seller with picture. No response from Ebay seller... Sent 2 more HEATERS to Ebay seller. No response. I woke up this morning Monday, 8am and still no response. I find a CS # for BRAKEMOTIVE out of CHI TOWN. I hit the CS up and said WTF DOG?! The bitch tells me that BOTH boxes made it to Phx but then one of the boxes the tracking info just stops. I wish I would have had the tracking info this whole time because 2.5 days have now been wasted. So now, I have to wait for FEDEX to locate a 50lb lost parcel... HOW THE FUCK DO YOU LOSE A BOX THAT WEIGHS 50lbs?! It's not like it slips into a crack or under a seat or disappears into thin fucking air?????????????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FUCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MEDIOCRITY is ruining America. Please pull your fucking head out of your ass and just be good at your job. You get paid to do this for a LIVING. Be better! DO BETTER! FUCK! Both parcels made it to Phoenix at the same time as the time stamp on both tracking indicates. I'm thinking that somehow only one box got put on the truck to the distribution center where it gets loaded onto the delivery truck. So basically my brake calipers are sitting on the ground somewhere in some building in PHX right now. COOL.

Bleed screws are stripped on the stock calipers or else I'd throw those back on for time being. Anyone know a good way to get stripped bleed screws out of the caliper?

 

Weld a nut on them. Just make sure no fluid is in them - I think it's pretty flammable. If you can't get the fluid out then you could drill it out.

 

Already did that. They must be aluminum. The welds would not stick to the bleeder itself. Each time the nut just breaks off. You can actually see where the weld puddle goes down into the bleeder itself so I know it's penetrating. Unless it's the brake fluid not allowing the metal to bond but I doubt it. The weld puddle is perfect and the nut itself is getting plenty of penetration... just won't stick to the bleeder.

Update: FEDEX traced my package and basically responded in an email with what I already know. The package is in Phx and there are COVID DELAYS bla bla bla... New update, IN TRANSIT... So I have no faith that package is making it here at all or in any timely manner so I purchased the same package from AMAZON with delivery guaranteed Friday May 8. I now have $623 in cash held up in this whole fucking ordeal. Whichever get's here first wins and the other company gets a dick in their ass like they did me. Such bullshit. This is the 3rd issue that I've had with FUCKEX in the last few years. UPS or USPS FTW!!!!!!!!!

 

I thought to try something else for removing stuff like that - I have a couple stripped philips head screws in my interior I need to remove. I thought about squaring the end of the screw and making the surfaces nice and flat with a dremel / grinder so I can use a pair of vice grips.

 

I always take a dremel and cut a line through it and make it a flathead screw. usually works. Might work for this application. Somehow, against minimal odds FUCKEX located my parcel and is out for delivery today. 130pm and they're still not here. Fucking HATERS!!!! My truck has been on jack stands like two and half weeks now. Shit is pissing me off.

In other news: I received my Wilwood MPV for the rear brakes. Can a HOON HANDLE be hooked up in series with the MPV and drums? I want a hoon handle sooooooooooooooo bad!

 

BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUMPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Having the toughest time right now with these brakes. I had to play around with the thickness of the copper crush washers I got from Oreilly because the caliper wasn't filling up with oil. Or at least that's what I thought. Cracked bleeder on both new front calipers and definitely getting brake fluid into my 1 man bleeder bottle. The problem is, the passenger front caliper's pistons haven't pressed in yet to seat the pad. Driver side caliper's pistons have actuated and pushed the pad in a couple of MM and both sides are seated against the rotor. Not getting any fluid loss at the reservoir either... I kept pumping and pumping thinking somehow there is air in the passenger caliper. Then I notice a big pool of fluid under the rear driver side drum. Keep pumping and the puddle was growing... FML! I didn't want to do the drums today... I guess not tomorrow either as it is going to be 107 degrees in PHX tomorrow. FUCKKKKK!!!!! Good thing I bought the rear rebuild kit a couple of weeks ago!!!! LOLOLOL jesus christ this never ends.

 

@mechanicjon has info about the banjo bolt may be applicable here

 

Did you drill the end of the banjo bolt out a little?

 

pl

 

YEP! Just like that. No leaks at all. At first I thought the hole wasn't lining up with the middle of the banjo fitting but I think everything is good. I didn't get the passenger side drum done yet or I would have put more fluid in the reservoir to test that new passenger front caliper. I bet all will be good tomorrow after I get that other wheel cylinder put in and can actually pressurize and bleed the system.

 

Im sure you will but let me know how your brake pedal feels - if I’m not mistaken some guys with pre-01 trucks experienced slightly squishy pedals after going with the tundra brakes.

 

Yea, I've read some of those posts too. Anytime before I do anything or want to make a change I research. I google search images on key words. Those images will take you to the original forum page. I've read a shit ton about the upgrade. Which is also how I came across the photos of the banjo bolt and knew it needed to be modified or you have to buy the wheeler's brake lines that may or may not work right out of the box. Anytime I want to learn something new which is basically everyday, I go on google or youtube and go down THE RABBIT HOLE!!!! So deep, all the way to wonderland. I have spent 3 or 4 hours down the rabbit hole on a certain topic. LOL I digress... anyways, yes, I saw posts about potential for a softer feel. Lots on the 4Runner forums too. I think there could be variables in why people experience softer feel. How is the entire system as a whole? My brakes have been garbage for YEARS! I can't imagine them being any worse after this. I also think that I could use a new master and brake booster or maybe just booster. My drums were so shot that there's nothing left of the shoe pad LOLLLLLLLLLLL so now I know why I go through front brake pads every two years or so... I don't know anything about brakes but I bet not having shoes pressing against the drums would maybe make for more brake pedal travel, especially if the front pads are worn 30% or more...

Side note: After I put the front on 3 years ago I took it for an alignment at this shop in Phoenix that is well known. Dude in there is super cool. Got the alignment and while it was in there, Scott the man said that my brakes were so shitty he adjusted some shit and the pedal was definitely way more firm when I left. They actually felt good for the first time in years. That only lasted 3 months. In Mexico for Memorial Weekend and the first night we were there coming back to the house late at night the brakes went out all of a sudden. Got into the driveway and noticed the front driver side banjo bolt had cracked loose and lost my fluid. Replaced fluid next morning and brakes went back to being mediocre. If I had to guess he must have done something to the proportioning valve or clickers in the drums or maybe bled the front better??? Not sure.

About to get my ass out there right now. 105-107 today in PHX AKA FIRE CITY... TRUCK IS CURRENTLY FULL HOVERCRAFT MODE!!!!

 

Full rebuild

 

Driver side caliper

 

Passenger side caliper

 

Notice the gap? Hopefully it has to do with brake fluid traveling from front driver side to back drum before returning to passenger front... or at least hopefully it's due to the massive pressure leak at the driver side drum wheel cylinder. That thing was so shot it was just pissing everywhere. You can pry see the stain on the ground and how big the puddle was.

 

HOLLYYYYYYYYYYYYY FUCKKKKKKK!!!!!!! This passenger drum is LOADED with OIL. Smells like diff fluid. That rotten stank associated with gear oil. There is no amount of brake cleaner that will take care of this!!! WHAT A NIGHTMARE! LMFAOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

 

Dealt with that on a Tundra axle I was putting under my truck - gonna have to most likely replace the wheel bearing and axle seal if the oil washed the grease out from the bearing.