El Taco Diablo... Mall Crawlin, now with LT for tall curbs

If you run these flange and plan on attending 4wd events, your truck will get DQ. All the events I attended, host will check for functioning ebrake, regardless of its at the rear wheel or tcase.

Reach out to FROR and maybe buy their flange so you can run DROTOR with functioning emergency brake. FF with disc and drum Combo

 

So... then it seems as though I'm back to square 1 then. Because I will need to be able to pass inspections. We have at least 2 poker runs we will be doing next year, as well as Sierra Trek.

Definitely looking for Full Float with disc drum combo.

Front Range was helpful to a degree, but not really. They wanted me to just have them build the axle. Which is understandable. But not an option here, for multiple reasons. Shipping makes it cost prohibitive, also I'd like to do this myself, like pretty much everything else on this truck. I'd also like to have the content to post on our channel.

I get why they would rather just build it, than answer a bunch of dumb questions from me... totally understandable.

 

Those flanges are what Diamond use without the ears. I run the Drotor as mentioned as it's a better overall package with the ability to run newer vented 4runner rotor/calipers with p.brake.

Bolts on as shown in the picture. Caliper instead of having the ears on the axle flange, are milled into the Drotor that bolts on.

 

FROR FF DROTOR disc/drum is $$. Functional ebrake and stop on a dime with 40s with FJ80 front brake combo.

 

Nice pics of those p.brake cables

 

Took me weeks and sh1t ton of stress to figure how to "make" it function. Bought a bunch of parts and stuff just to scrap it. But in the end, I went back with all toyota crap.

 

Why not just run the stock fj80 rear axle? It checks all the boxes you are looking for and the parking brake works.

I know you want the width to match the front, but at least the front will be a bit wider so you will get that trophy truck look....

 

Yep.... and the cheapest route... 9.5 FF and may have factory elock.. my buddy picked up that combo for his 4r on 40s. HP elock front and 80 rear elock.

 

Non elockers are even cheaper, that's what I got. Bolts right into the stock taco brake system and just ziptie the prop valve in the rear all the way up.

 

True.

But for my buddy, it was cheaper to buy an elock vs putting in a selectable.

 

For sure, I didn't care and dropped in a spartan, love it!

 

Ruff Stuff or Diamond are stronger housing, more protection on the back of the diff, easier to truss (because it's pre made) for even more strength, and I don't want to F with an offset diff. Sure, other people run them that way, I don't want to run it that way. And the Ruff Stuff, or Diamond have more clear under the diff... and it's just a mess having to cut everything off the housing.

 

Right on... Now this is what I was hoping would happen. A true discussion.

So (forgive my ignorance here) now is where I'll start asking the stupid questions.

It sounds like what you guys are talking about is...

Option A) Front Range Offroad Drotor kit Toyota Pickup Brake Upgrade | Toyota Parking Brake Kit (frontrangeoffroadfab.com)
Sounds like the flanges mentioned earlier work with the Drotor kit then I would have to source rotors, calipers, hubs, axle shafts and it's pretty much presto. Am I understanding this correctly?

Option B) Putting together something using FJ80 front brakes.
I'd have a ton of dumb questions because I'm not sure where to even start, to make that work... But if it's cheaper I'd definitely be interested in more details.

 

Yep, that's the fun part. Trying to figure out which company to go with it. When I built mine, I wanted to go with RS but they were not that useful and didn't answer all my questions. Litterily told me, we can help built the housing but you will have to figure everything else on your own because we don't know or don't have the inventory to make it happen.

On the other hand, Brian from FROR was the complete opposite. Answer all my question thoroughly and even provided info to questions I may have in the future. I need the rear axle to be FF and have ebrake: DROTOR. I ordered the housing and RCV at the same time. Didn't have to stress over shaft measurements as Brain did the leg work and they all arrived at the same time. It was definitely cheaper to have FROR built the housing and order the shaft while I piece everything else that is needed to assemble the housings.

Yes, I get it. $400+ for shipping from CO to CA is money that can go elsewhere but overall, I think I was less stressed and the built went according to plan. Sometime, cheaper actually cost more in the end. I can vouch for that and I'm sure many can say the same.

But hey, you do you. I'm being honest, many hosted offroad events I attended in the past, they check for functioning ebrake. They even want to you carry a "spill clean up kit". Wouldn't want you to have all that BADASS axles/bling and get sideline.

 

No... for real, I'm totally appreciative of your input.

I'll respond to your post, kind of in the same order.

TOTALLY get what you're saying on Ruff Stuff. They have not really been that helpful. Seems like everyone I talk to is pretty much in sales and don't know how to make the product actually function. And as you said, I don't think they even make/have the parts to make it function. Not really excited about that part. But the housing it's self and the available parts (truss, armor, fill/drain etc) could be a good start to a build.

FROR... I've had good experiences with them in the past. I currently run their twin sticks (soon to be for sale because I'll be running RADesign triple sticks ) I can't remember what else I've gotten from them, but there are a few things, and they were actually also helpful when I swapped from Prerunner to 4wd.

This time though... It just seems like they don't want to answer any questions and just want me to order a built axle... I get it, they don't want to help sell someone else's housing, and it's easier to take an order than explain to a dumbass (me) how to make it all work. Totally understandable.

But FROR wants to leave it at me just ordering a built axle. Built housing, with 3rd member, with locker, and that's not what I was asking. There's also the fact that, as far as I can find, they don't make trusses for their axles. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm looking to truss the back of the axle. If I have to fabricate that entirely on my own, it's a pain in the ass and I can see where that will turn out like dog shit.

The cost of shipping is worth mentioning, but it's not the determining factor. There's also the cost of shop rates while they assemble it. I understand where they charge for that, it's not a problem... but if I can spend that time (probably twice or three times the amount of time, actually lol) and save a few bucks I'm good with that.

There's also the fact I have a fairly new YouTube channel. I'm sitting here with no content to post, because I'm not currently doing any trips. So is it a better idea to fumble through an axle build and make it content? Or have someone else do all the work, pay more, and have no content to post? (that's overly simplistic, but you get the idea).

Lastly, on the inspection/e brake. THAT is exactly why I'm trying to figure most of this out before I pull the trigger and order something. I need to be sure I can complete this thing before I start ordering stuff that ends up not working.

It sounds like the Drotor kit may work.

 

As for the triple stick, email Dave @ Daves ORS and check if he's still making his triple stick concept. I have the RAD triple stick and I much rather run Dave's. His designed is much better IMO.

As for the axle, FROR will not sell you their housing with FF flange end, DROTOR, and shaft while you piece everything else? That's what I did, ordered the bare housing to my spec and RCV.

As for truss, I honestly don't think you'll need it. They look cool and all but they're also unwanted weight. 3.50"x3/8" is HD enough unless you're rock bouncing.

 

Too late on the triple sticks. The RADesign set is, literally, in the mail on the way to my house lol.

I ordered them as recommended by a buddy that was running them. I'm sure they'll end up being alright. I didn't even realize ORS had a set.

Those axles you got there are badass!

A back trusted axle looks sexy. If I'm doing this, I'd love to be able to have one. It's really asthetics I know, it may be petty, but ya gotta admit, it would look cool.

 

Changing gears (somewhat) but actually circling back to the rear axle here as well.

I had a pretty good conversation with Solo Motorsports today, talking the differences between their LT (+3.5) kit vs. their XLT (+4.5 kit). There are notable differences between the 2 kits. The spindles are different, as well as the upper control arms. The XLT allows for a 10 inch coil over vs. an 8 inch coil over with the LT kit. The XLT gets a considerable amount more droop than the LT kit does.

So... It looks like I'm making a decision to go with the XLT kit. Adding 4.5 inches (per side). Now, here's where we circle back to the rear axle. I need to figure out a WMS to WMS that I want for the rear axle. Solo Motorsports made the suggestion I go 1 inch (approximate) narrower per side than the front.

WMS to WMS on IFS isn't really a thing because it's a moving target based on where the ride height is set at. I can go off of the stock rear WMS to WMS (which is relatively closely matched to the front) that figure is 60 inches according to LC Engineering https://lcengineering.com/differential-information/

So we can take axle width of 60 add 9 inches and take away 2 inches and come to (60+9=69 69-2=67) 67 inches WMS to WMS on the rear axle.

Anyone who knows more about this shit than I do, feel free to chime in here

 

Your on the right path WMS wise. Ive seen some LT guys go with a budget t100/tundra axle at 66". For SA I found around 68" or so wms works well with the 1st gen platform, others as well.

 

freight was $165 for my Diamond housing from CO to CA. That was back in March though.

I also looked into doing a FF setup on my rear housing when I ordered it, but it was going to add almost 2.5x the cost of just the housing itself on top. Can always add it later down the line with their kit.