El Taco Diablo... Mall Crawlin, now with LT for tall curbs

Notes for me:
1st gen Tacoma rear axle = 60.75
T100 rear axle = 66.75
1st gen Tundra rear axle = 66.75

After long travel, at ride height my front is 67.375 (67 3/8)

I'm thinking 66 inch rear axle will work.


81 wms to wsm - 66 = 15 --> 7.5 off each side

IF

The third member is not offset in the housing. I need to find out if where the axle spines on the third member are even on both sides. I want to be able to carry just 1 spare axle shaft.

 

Why 66 and not matching the front? What axle shafts are you going to be running?

 

Most truck rear ends are slightly more narrow than the front. Tracts better that way.

 

100% what @nDub said.

RCV shafts

 

This wasn't my favorite thing... but it's done.




Tapped 10 holes in 3/8 plate... Helicoil... now the bolts fit.

 

Dropped by Yota1 today to pick up some replacement (hub) studs for the rear axle build, and some other odds and ends. There were a couple broken hub studs on the Toyota Truck IFS hubs I bought... easy fix.

But these were hanging there on the shelf and calling out to me.



Gotta love buying parts for the next project before you're halfway done with this project.



And also... Brown Santa brought me more goodies from Front Range Offroad.

 

Well that was about 1 million percent harder than I thought it would be. But the third member is finally fitted to the housing

Had to ream out the bolt holes in the third member to get it end up fitting in place, but now it's snug like it should be. About 20 test fits and stepping the holes up 1/32 at a time was a time consuming pain in the ass... and the difference between an 8 inch and 9.5 inch 3rd is HEAVY lol

 

Also, got the broken hub studs replaced. Test fit the drive flanges, everything rolls smoothly.



Then I found out a bought an entire box of lug studs that don't seem like they are going to work. Was looking to do longer studs, but these seem like they are too big at the knurl to work here. Somehow I'm not suprised.

 

Which studs did you get?

 

The ones in the box, shown. 610-463 Dorman.

The shoulder of the stud (beginning at the yellow line) is bigger than the knurl on the old studs.

 

Going to sound like a dick here, but did you actually try to pound them in? I have the same studs and the same hubs and they hammered on in.

If you just look at them they look like they don't fit.

 

I haven't tried yet. I pushed them in to the shoulder and tapped on it a couple times. It didn't want to go at all... and then, you still have to press the knurl which is even bigger. I threw the studs in the freezer, when I have time, I'll see if that makes any difference.

You didn't sound like a dick lol

 

Ok LOL!! Yea they weren't any harder to install than any other studs, obviously they are supposed to be tight as hell in there.

 

Ya, I've installed quite a few studs over the years. These seem like they are tighter than they should be. And the tightness starts WAY before the knurl. That shoulder should push through with a little resistance and then it should be tight at the knurl. That's not what it's doing.

 

So I have another question. And I just want to make sure I'm not under thinking this. Normally, I have a habit of over thinking things, and now I may be overthinking, thinking I'm under thinking


Ok... The suspension NOW is at the ride height I want. The pinion angles are good. I have no vibrations.

When I install the new axle, I will also be swapping to Chevy 63s... BUT... I will be making sure to stay at THIS ride height.

When I'm looking to set the pinion angle on the new axle. I.E. mock up the leaf perches at the angle they need to be relative to the mounting face on the 3rd member.

Since I am going to stay at the same ride height (or as close to it as possible) I should just be able to copy my current leaf perch angle to the 3rd mounting surface and copy that to the new axle... No?

@ToyRyd04 @slander @Speedytech7 @cbechtold @Robmonster117 @foxrcing07

 

I'd personally moch up the rear axle and measure everything out before you weld anything in place.

 

Ya... trying to avoid having the truck down for the period of time that would take. It's currently my daily.

But that would be the optimum way to do this, for sure.

 

I definitely get that. I had to schedule some time off work so I could work on my steering rack in May.

 

Nope 63s have a different spring rate than your current pack, and then the shackle angle will also dictate ride height/spring rate.
3 day weekend type job without a car lift.

Day 1 Tear Down/Tack up front hangers/spring perches
Day 2 Adjust rear shackle closer/farther with weight on axle/pinion angle
Day 3 Finish welding/shock mount cycling/final install

Biggest time consuming will be locating the rear shackle mount. On the forum here I've seen guys relocating the front hanger forward between 6-8" (mine was 7.75).
This is going to set where your center pin will sit in the rear wheel arch. Rear shackle mount will increase (closer to front) / decrease (farther from front) your spring rate/ride height.
***Also dependent on shackle length***

 

I get all that. I'm just trying to set the spring perches on my actual axle right now. Totally know the truck is going to be down for the 63 swap (with axle swap as well) But I'm trying to get the axle built so when I'm doing the swap I'm not swapping leafs and (frame perches) AND building an axle all at the same time.