Electrical genius needed! Conv. garage remote to...

It occured to me that there must be a way to take the circuit board out of my garage door remote and jigger it to work with an OEM looking momentary switch. Hide the circuit board in the dash and wire the switch to it.

The remote uses a 3 volt battery so stepping down from 12 volts to 3 volts...

Picture below. The momentary switch is from Air On Board and fits in the stock holes. Any idea how/if it would be possible?

 

@Dj Suisav

 

What does that mean?

 

Hes tagging another user. Just like you tag on instagram and facebook

 

@916carl buy this: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...3V-3A-15W-Power-Supply-Module/1825299105.html

Hook it to a hot / ground from the battery to the line side of the switch, make sure to use a 5a fuse. On the back of the board you see the clip that holds the battery in place, it serves as a contact point for the battery to supply the remote with the proper voltage, you should solder the power supply module (3v side) to the switch, from the switch's 'sw3' button hook it (or solder) to the other side of the switch (if the sw3 button is the button to open the garage door with).

Edit: I am over thinking this. Solder the 3v side of the power module to the prongs on the back of the garage door opener, run 2 wires from the battery with a 5a fuse, solder / butt splice them in place on the other side of the power module. Solder 2 small wires from the prongs on the back of the remote to the button you want to install.

But BEFORE you do ANY of that, just leave the battery in the garage door opener remote and run the 2 small wires to the oem switch and solder them in place, if they are the correct orientation the button should work and open the garage door ... this is just a test method before you do anything semi-permanent.

 

^^

exactly.... super simple

you only need to worry about current loss if the wires from the remote to switch are too long

connect your taco switch open/close direct to the
red button sw3
bottom two leads

and test

 

Why not just leave the battery in there?One less thing to buy (converter) and I have never replace a battery in one of those remote.

 

Thanks everyone. I've done automotive wiring (installed 5 gauges in my Camaro where there were only 2) plus a few other things, but I still consider myself wiring illiterate. Since I'm very visual I need to map it out. This is what I interpret from the posts above with some questions.

 

I'm not too familiar with low voltage systems but the diagram looks superb. Where it says 4 dots, just run 2 wires from any 2 dots to the prongs on the switch you want to install, hit the button and repeat with 2 different dots until the door opens. Where the battery is there is 2 dots as well, a little larger than the rest. One is your hot and the other is ground. Ground the converter to the chassis, should work as long as there is continuity between your OEM battery ground and wherever you decide to ground the converter.

 

Thanks! As I'm a little slow, let me work this out.

* We have 3v coming in from the converter to one of the large dots down by battery. One is hot, the other is ground. Solder the 3v line to the hot once I determine which is which.
* The 4 dots above are behind the button I normally push to a activate the door. Pushing the button connects the power from the battery to the transmitter and a signal is sent. Figure out which 2 dots (use multimeter?) then solder wires from them to the momentary switch (2 wires to one terminal on the switch or...?). I don't have the switch wiring diagram yet.

One other thing I just noticed. The switch is 12 volt. Will this be an issue? It has LED lighting but I believe that is wired separately. Air On Board doesn't have their wiring diagrams posted, they say they'll send them when you buy a switch...

 

Yep, I just left the battery in the remote. Found the contacts in the remote, that when shorted together triggered the door signal, soldered a two conductor wire to the terminals, ran the wire to a momentary push button mounted into one of the blanks below the HVAC controls. Zip tied the opener behind the glove box door for access and battery change (batteries last for years!) 15 minute mod/install.

 

So much brain damage. Get a used Homelink from a junk yard for ~$20 that matches your interior color (gray or tan) hard wire it & call it a day. No battery to mess with. Works on most all brand garage door openers (unlike your remote) & gives you the ability to control other devices (gates & such) should you ever need to.

 

I did this on another vehicle and 110% agree. Simple, has 3 buttons (two garage doors and gate access to my neighborhood), cost around $20 used on ebay, and has simple two wire hookup to 12v.

 

My original LinkMaster remote started acting up. It will open the garage door everytime, but won't close it but maybe 50% of the time. First thing I tried to replace the the 12v 23a battery (expensive little battery). Then cleared all codes on the unit and re-learned them both to one another with no change.


So now I have ordered a AOB switch and removed a blank to fit the new switch.


My question is two parts and open for opinions and recommendations.
1) Should I hardwire the solution to the truck so it only works when the ignition is on? And, if so what is the absolute best method to do so?
2) IMPORTANT: Shoud I use this old original remote to crack into and remove the circuit board for my MOD? I have seen some mods where they purchased a cheap remote on ebay / Amazon and left the battery in so to have simplified solution. However, I just spent $35 bucks with shipping to get this fancy LED switch which I understand if I go the simple route won't light up and I could've bought a $2 switch elsewhere. I'm game for going to Home Depot and buying a new remote or buying a cheap on off ebay/amazon. What I really care about is a quality mod SUGGESTIONS?

The switch I bought comes with some wiring and such... I think. I have never wired anything.
http://www.aironboard.com/online/pu...acement-garage-opener-momentary-led-blue.html

Thank you, all.

 

Here is the one I did with AirOnBoard.com's switch.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-looking-garage-door-button-opener-hack.392654/

 

Thanks Man,

Question: My dash switch panel I tried prying lightly with a couple of screwdrives didn't budge. Do I need to remove a bolt somewhere or some trim for that to pop-out? I can't see why it wouldn't just pop out, I also pushed on the cubby hole from the back which I can reach from under the dash fairly easily and feel my way around pretty good.


In hindsight or anything... would you have hard wired it or plan to do that down the road?

That wiring harness came with the AOB switch, right? And, did you get wiring instructions with it like they say?

Cheers!

 

Agreed. There are several threads that cover this.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-install-a-homelink-garage-opener-w-pictures.132996/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/homelink-install.166140/

 

Thanks crashnburn80, I've already bought the AOB LED switch and don't want to mess with my headliner or overhead console, just turned 1,000 miles on my new taco. I like the position of the switch out of the way and on the drivers side lower dash.

I am completely out of my element and this will be my first mod so I'll do my best to document it and update the solution after using it for a few months.

Cheers!

 

Hello, I'm the fricken new guy - FNG here and I'm interested in this mod but I used the link you have up here and I can't find the power supply. What category should I look under? Thanks.

 

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