Electrical help

I am out here now testing.


engine off fridge running
Battery 12.5
First blue sea 10.98-11
Second blue sea 10.95-10.98
12v outlet. 10.95

 

Battery was purchased Sunday and is a x2 power 27f. 93 ah I believe.

also fridge is 53 qrt. Book lists it as 55qt

 

the voltage drop for the 10 awg wire is .22 volts. I figured it with 30 feet of wire to be safe, so the wire is not the problem. Check your connections and you will find the problem or like another guy said run a wire straight to the battery

 

Gut everything and run a 4 gauge(welding) wire from the battery to a breaker in the back and then go into the bluesea and wire up the fridge from there.
https://www.remybattery.com/cable-c...le/4-gauge-welding-cable.html#cable_color=542 $1.44 a foot get 25 feet to account for routing over and around things

 

no the plug is the “dedicated switch”

So eliminate the first blue sea and go from battery straight back to the second blue sea? Or are you saying go from battery straight to the 12v. This option I would still need to put at least a 15 amp fuse inline correct ?

 

Ok, def not the battery then.
Over how long of a period of time did it make the voltage drop that low?
If anything it could just be the fact that the fridge is drawing a lot of current.

 

It is usually around 20-30 minutes before the fridge will drop into the F1 error and cut the fridge off. And when I check the voltage meter on the fridge it will read low 10’s and sometimes 9.9 the truck will still crank and then the fridge turns back on after having to unplug and replug it back in.

 

Check the voltage at the plug against the voltage the fridge is seeing.

 

I’m guessing you mean unplug the plug from the fridge, test the 12v socket and then test the open end of the fridge plug ?

 

Back probe the plug so you can see the voltage being displayed on the fridge as well as the voltage on your meter. If the fridge is seeing 10 volts but there is actually 12 volts at the plug, then the fridge is the problem not the power supply.

 

What 12V “Outlet” are you talking about, at the fridge? From your measurements could be a connection problem between battery and first blue sea, not much voltage drop between first blue sea and the second. Have you measured the actual current draw?

 

The 12v outlet is one I installed in the bed for the fridge to run off of.

 

Since your voltage drop is between your battery and your first blue sea, if I were troubleshooting this I would unhook from the battery and check the resistance across all connections - across the 100A breaker, and across the first blue sea input connector to the 30A output connector looking for a high resistance connection or a bad breaker. Or easier yet just check the voltage to ground at all those connections (input and output connector at breaker, at fuse etc) and see where the voltage drop is.
And if needed I would measure actual current draw with an ammeter/DMM, and verify the right 12V plug input to the fridge.

 

Trying to get the amperage pull from the fridge now but it’s seeming less than possible with my dmm I’m guessing I’ll have to go buy a better one then the cheap one I have because I can’t get a reading.

 

Then just do the voltage drop tests I mentioned above and/ or the resistance tests.

 

I missed this post. Others are correct, the voltage drop is between the battery and first fuse box. Start at the battery terminals and work you way to the box checking voltage at each connection.

 

You need a quality meter, not a cheap HF one. Here's my go to meter for troubleshooting, does clamp on AC and DC amps. It sounds like you have a bad connection between your battery and the first blue sea, losing 1.5 volts is pretty significant. You either have a loose/bad connection or a poor ground somewhere.

 

Seems like most people missed this ^ post for some reason. The issue is between the battery and the 1st blue sea. That's a pretty decent voltage drop right there from 12.5 to 10.98. Look at everything between those two points.

Theres no need for a fancy meter in this case. If he wants to be meticulous about it, he can just measure the resistance of the dead circuit between each connection before the 1st blue sea. Personally I bet a visual inspection will show the problem.

 

I didn't say there was, the 325 is not a fancy meter by any sorts. It does provide the ability to measure the current without disturbing connections which can help to pinpoint where the issue might be. From the readings provided, there will be a loose/corroded connection between the battery and first fuse block.

 

That’s a nice meter. I use flukes a work sometimes but at home I have an inexpensive but quite accurate (per the specs) DMM from China. ​