Electrician

I figure where you are at, snow/ice is a non issue. Around here, garage floors become covered with "road salt dripings". When it comes to humans, salty water is just as conductive as bare wire.

 

NEC for Garage:
210.70(a)(2) Wall switch controlled lighting outlet is required.

210.70(a)(2) Switched lighting outlet required on exterior to illuminate all personnel entrances (not required for vehicle doors, such as overhead garage doors)

210.52(g) At least 1 receptacle outlet (in addition to those for specific equipment such as garage door openers or washing machines) is required in all attached garages.

210.8(a)(2) GCFI protection is required for all 15 and 20 amp 120 volt receptacles include outlets for refrigerators, garage door openers, and washing machines.

406.12 All 15 and 20 amp, 120 volt receptacle outlet must be listed tamper resistant type unless located higher than 5' 6" above the floor.

2014 NEC
210.52g One receptacle outlet must be installed for each car space and shall not supply outlets outside of the garage.

 

Well there you have it

Lame to the O

edit : thinking about it now , the last 2 houses I built didn't have garages and we had a big electrical code upgrade in 2012 so that actually apply here now too , I'm going to have to ask my electrical contractor

 

Wow someone gives some information and as always the aholes on Tacoma World have to chime in. For me if you don't know what your doing, call someone that does. There are codes there for a reason. I hate when cheap DIYers bring there cars in my shop after screwing them up thinking I'm going to fix there screw up for nothing. Do you research before attempting something you know nothing about. rant over

 

Is there a sub panel in the garage? If not it could be behind a GFI in the house poor way to wire a garage but if it's just lights and a socket or two no big deal but a garage should be on it's own home run to the breaker panel at 20 amps. If the breaker is 15 amps until you confirm it's #12 wire leave it at 15 amps.

 

Are you referring to me ?

 

If the shoe fits sir, if not then it's a No.

 

No it is

 

It's all good Brianz, I could care less what they say on TW. I only was giving info. on the current NEC Codes for a garage because there was a lot of talk about GCFI's. Homes built years ago will not comply to current codes. I have 20 years exp. in this field and don't need anybody to help me out on this one.

 

Pretty sure nobody disputed your code info

Maybe there is some misinterpretation going on here

 

I'm good OZ-T, Just like upgrades we do to our trucks you never know what or how people wire things up until you dig in.

 

f

This has to do with garages usually having a concrete floor which provides a very good path to ground. If you were to walk into your garage on the concrete floor with bare feet and happened to come into contact with an ungrounded piece of metal that had a line voltage potential on it such as a poorly grounded refrigerator or washing machine, you would probably get zapped.

The house I grew up in was built in the late 1960's when the grounding requirements of the NEC were different. We had an old ungrounded Army surplus shortwave radio receiver that would give you a little jolt if you touched it while standing on the garage floor with bare feet.

 

So I took electrical in hs and ac DC in college. How would one go about wiring a single 220 Volt breaker to a full panel besides tandom breakers making room.

 

Good , no ill will intended

Like I said , the last 2 houses I built don't have garages so it may be a requirement here now too and I've already texted my electrical contractor to find out .

 

I would install a smaller sub-panel off of the main to make room.

 

You could take out two 120v breakers on one side and replace them with a 220 volt (two pole) breaker. Then to replace two circuits lost by the addition of the 220v breaker, you could remove two additional single 120 volt breakers and replace them with two "mini" breakers that each have two positions.

 

The only problem with this solution is the fact that you are adding an additional electrical panel that can only legally be done by a licensed electrician and would then also require a subsequent inspection which could open up a whole can of worms if there is older wiring that may not be up to the current code requirements....Just sayin.

 

A local engineer can supersede the NEC so you might have different applications for the same room.

 

Still, that's what I would do.

And, the guy was asking what to do instead of using tandem/half size breakers to make room.

 

Yep, Would probably be easier and just as safe if done correctly.

Yep, I missed "tandem", saw that after I reread it.