Emergency Brake Adjustment Stop Screws

For the 3rd time in less than 10k miles the brake shoes on one side or the other of my 1998 TRD gradually "adjust" until they drag on the drum. The drag is such that the rim becomes too hot to touch.

I see that the adjustable stop screw on the parking brake bellcrank does not touch the back of the backing plate with the emergency brake released.

I disconnected the parking brake cable where it attaches to the bellcrank and took off the wheel. I can move the e-brake linkage inside the drum with my finger and when I pull the parking brake lever towards the inner link and release it, it does not return all the way. The brake shoe return spring works fine.

I am going to disassemble the brakes on both sides, clean everything and reassemble, but I don't know how to adjust that stop screw. Can anybody help me out here? I'm tired of having to back off the brake adjustment every few thousand miles.

(I didn't have this problem for the first 70,000 miles.)

 

So your truck has less then 100,000 miles ??

Is this just the mileage that you own the truck??

I think the problem might be that the self adjuster spring is worn allowing it to ratchet up to much so over the time frame and get tight.

Backing the adjuster off allows the drum to slide right off??

I doubt adjusting the screw will help

The adjustment is to tighten them up till there is no movement then back off one complete turn.

On all my Toyota`s other then the original work getting the parking Brakes working I don`t think I ever messed with those again.

Being in Pa it would have meant removing them and replacing the screws

 

My truck has 88,000 miles. I bought it new in 1998 with 6 miles on the clock. When I back off the brake adjuster I still have to use the two bolts into the drum to back the drum out.

What and where is the self-adjuster spring that you mention? Surely it can't be that little spring that is visible when one looks at the external bellcrank, or?

While working on the right side, when I use my finger to push the e-brake linkage inside the drum towards the back of the truck and then remove my finger, the linkage does move toward the front of the truck but not all the way. I can push it farther forward and it will stay there until I move it again. It seems to me that if I move it to the rear and let go, it should move forward until it hits something solid.

 

There is or should be a spring that keeps pressure on the arm that keeps the self adjuster from turning .

This is the arm you hold out of the way when backing the brakes off.

Do the Drums have a ridge the shoes get stuck on??

Once the shoes are backed off the drum should come right off mine always do .

In years past I have seen a bad ridge cause the shoes to get stuck causing things to get warm.

Damage to brake line keeping wheel cylinder from releasing slowly building pressure over time.

the adjuster ratchets to many clicks on each application of parking brake

bell crank hanging up in the bracket .

it is going to be one of these.

 

>>There is or should be a spring that keeps pressure on the arm that keeps the self adjuster from turning .
This is the arm you hold out of the way when backing the brakes off.<<

In the IPB I cannot see anything called a "self adjuster", but I think you mean the plate that engages the top of the brake adjuster wheel shown in the insert and prevents one from turning it in a loosening direction. To hold that plate and adjust the wheel I have to remove the drum.

I do see an "Adjusting Lever Spring" near the bottom of the image though and I can't recall seeing that on my truck (not on either side). I'll have to take a look when the weather permits.

>>Do the Drums have a ridge the shoes get stuck on??<<

Yes, the right drum has a very slight ridge that I can feel with my fingernail but I don't think it's causing any problem. The shoes have less than 5,000 miles on them and are dry and in good shape.

>>Damage to brake line keeping wheel cylinder from releasing slowly building pressure over time.<<

The brake lines are intact. No kinks or sharp bends.

>>the adjuster ratchets to many clicks on each application of parking brake<<

That's what I'm thinking but I have yet to figure out just what might be causing that.

In the next few days I'm going to remove and reinstall the shoes from the right side and maybe put on a new drum. I'll check for that spring you mentioned. I'm reasonably sure the problem is inside the brake drum.

I'm still looking for information concerning that little bolt and lock nut that appears just below the word "Clip" at the top of the image. Hopefully somebody can clarify that for me.

 

If you have access to the FSM look up the adjustment for the screws .

It might give you the measurements in MM so you can be sure it is perfect .

I just was taught take out the slack and back off a full turn and tighten the lock.

 

Be sure to check the drum and shoes for glazing after getting that hot. Give it a good cleaning and lube all necessary parts and pieces. Good luck, I did my shoes and drums. I'm not too familiar with drum brakes I took it slow and steady. The hard part was adjusting them. I took off the drum, went one click, test fit, went one click, test fit until i couldn't slide the drum back on. Backed off one click, test fit, until it barely fit. I left it there and have been fine. Adjusting the star wheel with the drums on is a bit of a pain. I practiced it with the drum off so I could see and feel what was happening in there.

 

The FSM, of which I have a copy, doesn't mention anything about the stop screw/lock nut or its adjustment. It does show them in the diagram though. MOF there is a note at the top of the page that says the diagram is for a pre-runner.

I can adjust the brakes just fine, but several months later one side or the other has tightened up.

If it ever stops raining and the weather drops below 90 degrees I'll have another look.

 

I have the FSM's for 96, 99, 2000, and 03. They all have the procedure, same for each year.

 

MY FINDINGS:

With the e-brake handle fully forward there was a lot of tension on the right e-brake cable. I backed off the adjustment and removed the pin that connects the cable to the Parking Brake Bellcrank, and then took apart the right rear brake assembly.

The reason the Parking Brake Bellcrank (on the back of the backplate) was not returning to its stop position was (1) an accumulation of dirt inside the pin holding the cable to the bellcrank, and (2) the Automatic Adjusting Lever was not centered on the pivot pin and was kinda "hinky" the way it acted.

After a thorough cleaning of the entire brake assembly, the Parking Brake Bellcrank now snaps smartly back into its resting position and the linkage inside the drum works freely.

I removed the left drum and checked the left Parking Brake Bellcrank. It worked okay without binding.

Each time I do the brakes I have a hard time with the springs. I had a bitch of a time removing and reattaching the Return Spring, and I finally used 3 tie-wraps to hold the shoes together so I could install the shoe Hold Down spring sub-assemblies. Back in the good old days (1960 or so) and up through around 1990 or so, I never had problems with the Return Springs, the Hold Down springs, or the e-brake.

 

Glad you found your problem!!

For what it is worth I put the return springs on with the adjuster closed as far as it will go.

Install the drum and adjust the brakes