Emissions Problem - Failed Smog

Your vehicle is a 2003, all module must be complete and ready

But back on topic, op I believe most auto parts store now can read your code for free. Erase the code with a scanner or unplug your battery cable. If the mil light chieme back on, get it check if it's the same code or not. Best is to buy a scanner and use it every other day to check your truck status.

 

Please re-read what you found and quoted. Post 2000 vehicles.

 

That’s what I originally thought.

 

Correct, they allow 1 module post 00, but all local smog shop here will not allow smog until all are ready. Been like that for 3 or so years now here. Maybe your county is different. Just like some county in California, all smog is exempt on their vehicle.

 

OP: Just know every time you disconnect your battery, all those test will have to run all over again.

Something I learned from the literature from the official CA ref in my area - different vehicles have different issues when it comes to completing the test cycles. It is noted in their literature, late model first gen tacoma's - "completing the test cycle is excessively difficult". Actually it is all Toyota's of that era.

 

Same for when you erase the code. It all clear out. But if your mil light is on, what are you suppose to do? Keep driving it until it turns OFF? Won't happen, so you will have to clear the code regardless to turn the light off and drive until cycle is ready or mil turns back on.

Op mil light is on. Clear it and see if it'll turn back on.

 

I'm not a mechanic, but as stated, I've researched it to death recently as well as made one of my first posts here, on this subject. The other members basically said the same as what I'm quoting, less CA regulations. I actually wish I had a CEL so I'd know where to go.

What I've been doing is driving it anyway with expired registration, with all my fees paid up, less the smog cert. If I get pulled over, I simply hope a cop will let it slide, knowing I paid my fees, have done everything I can to get this thing to complete its cycles. Fortunately it's my off-road camping truck and I have a small import for a daily.

 

Yeah you have to drive at a certain speed for a certain amOunt of time, very specific terms depending on the vehicle right?

 

There is no way of getting around this, if the inspector cant read it you will fail, unless you have the paper work to prove it is CA legal. Your options are really just replace it or keep going to smog shops till you get a guy that just doesn’t care. 2000 and up cars do not do the tail pipe test just the scan with obd2 and visual.

I have a 04 and just passed smog the other week with an after market intake that i had the carb sticker for, without it i would of failed. No clue if my cat number is visible but i did see the guy look down there and i passed so i guess it is.

 

Just do the smog under the table if you don’t wanna do repairs or deal with it. My dad smogs he’s 1998 Chevy Tahoe and it passes even with no cat.

 

Problem is you need to know a guy to be able to do that

 

Have you had any issues in the past with the K&N, and do you have the CARB sticker on your K&N filter?

 

Nope not one issue as I've got the CARB EO # decal on the firewall

 

I googled...

So, in looking at this thread, post #8, it looks like I need to take it through the drive cycle, which is pretty complicated and specific.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/obd2-not-ready.332327/

And
Post #4

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/127-1995-5-2004/65696-won-t-pass-emissions.html


If I'm remembering correctly, the last time my battery was disconnected was about 9 months ago. Seems strange that I haven't somehow go through the sequence needed to run the test.

 

Isn't the evap incomplete the "OBD II?"

 

Now I am wondering if they input the CARB code for the K&N intake filter the other day for the 2018 smog check, bc I think in 2016 once I had that, it passed.

 

I've gone five months and almost 2k miles and my catalyst hasn't completed either. I have a challenge where I live. It's hilly country with two-lane highways. From a cold start, unless I park it on flat land overnight, is an hour away. Some of the test cycles use the term "cold soak". After googling I'm led to believe it means starting with internal engine temp the same as ambient.

I'm considering the underground route. My county only requires smog on ownership change, not at set intervals. Lucky there.

 

Maybe I should take it out and drive at the speeds / conditions for the recommended intervals then. I think I'll get a scanner to see if there's any other codes the smog place didn't tell me about first though.

 

By the way, can you show me a link to the kind of scanner you are referring to?

I read that you can borrow one from an auto parts store for free, but I have to call and find out.

 

I had a very similar problem when it came time to smog my truck in CA last year, I threw a P0420 code and took it into the shop where they told me that the front cat was bad and that I should replace both (when one goes it usually means the other is not far behind). Toyota wanted over $2k to replace both with OEM cats so I ended up going with Magnaflows instead...not many options available for CARB approved cats but they made some for much cheaper...think I paid $600 to have both replaced with the Magnaflows. Code went away and I passed smog with flying colors.