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Energy Suspension bushings

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Wesdan13, Nov 6, 2024.

  1. Nov 7, 2024 at 2:27 PM
    #21
    eurowner

    eurowner Duke Sky

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    That surface you see crack might be the flashing from the mold-releasing "compound".
     
    Wesdan13[QUOTED][OP] and tonered like this.
  2. Nov 7, 2024 at 3:57 PM
    #22
    spicy_fish_taco

    spicy_fish_taco Well-Known Member

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    bump im in the same situation. my worry is the ride will be too stiff with the poly bushings. read some threads seem like some people cant even notice a difference while some like in this thread couldnt stand the firmness.
     
  3. Nov 7, 2024 at 4:22 PM
    #23
    tonered

    tonered bartheloni

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    Note that only one person noted it here, on a 4Runner. Unless I missed something?

    Like I noted in the GB thread, I found it communicated more road feel, but nothing else. No difference at all with just the two front ones.
     
  4. Nov 7, 2024 at 5:32 PM
    #24
    Wesdan13

    Wesdan13 [OP] Active Member

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    I just want the noise to go away. I don’t care how it drives. Haha
     
  5. Nov 8, 2024 at 5:13 AM
    #25
    Wesdan13

    Wesdan13 [OP] Active Member

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    Update: Toyota wanted to charge me $175 to have it looked at with their “suspension specialist”. So I guess I’ll be doing this myself. I’ll order the oem front body mounts and change them myself. $100 for both sides. Yes I could spend $200+ for an entire set energy ones but I just can’t swing that financially at the moment.
     
  6. Nov 8, 2024 at 6:04 AM
    #26
    tonered

    tonered bartheloni

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    Just in case:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN9BZ0
     
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  7. Nov 8, 2024 at 8:29 AM
    #27
    Wesdan13

    Wesdan13 [OP] Active Member

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  8. Nov 8, 2024 at 8:32 AM
    #28
    3r3Taco

    3r3Taco Well-Known Member

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    From looking at how other folks just messed up the fender and alignment to the hood, by jacking their inner fender up.
    Here is my method:
    Loosen the 4 cab mounts and the 2 core supports.
    Remove lower clips attaching the rubber splash shied that attaches the inner fender to the frame.
    On the side you are working on, turn the wheels out from where you are working. away from the truck.
    Bed back the inner fender liner.
    Choose a side and get a floor jack.
    Lift from the middle of the cab. I put a 8" 4x4 horizontal and lifted slowly. from under the drivers door, close to the pinch weld.
    A pump a time and stop as soon as you can remove the stock bushing.
    Put together the washers/new poly mount. you will need to lift about 1/4" more to get it to slide in place.
    Once its in place, just drop the bolt thru from the top.
    Repeat steps for the other side.
     
  9. Nov 8, 2024 at 8:39 AM
    #29
    Wesdan13

    Wesdan13 [OP] Active Member

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    I’ve done body lifts before. I assume it’s the same process but I think after 2018 the can mounts in the front are different. I think I’ll have to remove the front bumper or try to get to the bolt by removing the inner fender.
     
  10. Nov 8, 2024 at 8:40 AM
    #30
    tonered

    tonered bartheloni

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    There is no difference in 3rd Gens here. If it works for a 2016, it works for a 2023.

    Yes. They are a scosche thicker. No issue really.

    If there is a different set that is slightly thinner, then great.
     
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  11. Nov 8, 2024 at 9:10 AM
    #31
    Wesdan13

    Wesdan13 [OP] Active Member

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    So the OEM bushings on the 2015 are the same part number for the 2023. I’d assume that the Energy 8.4109 for the 2015 ones would fit a 2023. Also wonder what the difference is between those and the universal 9.4101G.
    I know it sounds like I’m being super anal. I just don’t want to have to do this twice. Lol
     
  12. Nov 8, 2024 at 9:25 AM
    #32
    tonered

    tonered bartheloni

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    Put it this way. There is a full kit for 2nd Gens from Energy that we cannot use. So, I would be cautious about using the 2015 front ones unless we can get some firm feedback.
     
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  13. Nov 8, 2024 at 9:28 AM
    #33
    Wesdan13

    Wesdan13 [OP] Active Member

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    Seems my only options are a full kit from Rogue 8.410916 or the Universal 9.4…
    I’d be less butthurt with the universal if it doesn’t fix my clunking issue. I’ll just do that. My head is spinning over all this.
     
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  14. Nov 8, 2024 at 9:45 AM
    #34
    tonered

    tonered bartheloni

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    Hahaha!

    Either kit will fix the noise up front. In my case, I had to loosen the others and bump the cab around to get one of the front bolts back in. That likely caused the much more subtle noise from one the other mounts for me. I could only hear it when it was raining out.

    The entire issue here is not specifically the front mounts, but that the rear ones have a huge hole for adjustment that is not needed. In the pic of them here, the hole in the center is about twice the size of the bolt:

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...group-buy-closed.763759/page-22#post-28443240

    The Rogue kit has no adjustment at all and it works perfectly.
     
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  15. Nov 8, 2024 at 3:41 PM
    #35
    Wesdan13

    Wesdan13 [OP] Active Member

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  16. Nov 8, 2024 at 5:16 PM
    #36
    tonered

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  17. Nov 8, 2024 at 6:05 PM
    #37
    Wesdan13

    Wesdan13 [OP] Active Member

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    Is that amount of play normal though… for the lower one?
     
  18. Nov 8, 2024 at 6:26 PM
    #38
    tonered

    tonered bartheloni

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    Oh yeah. That's all good.

    There's a sleeve on the inside that limits the compression. The rubber just rides on it up and down.
     
  19. Nov 10, 2024 at 10:05 AM
    #39
    baltimorebirds2

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    Mine looked like that as well. Probably just the lower quality rubber
     
  20. Nov 10, 2024 at 10:11 AM
    #40
    baltimorebirds2

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    I just installed my black energy universal ones yesterday. Factory mounts definitely had a hole widdled in the rubber and the sleeve had a couple grooves in it from rubbing on the frame. I installed the big washer on top, big puck with the nipple between the body and frame, nipple side down. Then the small puck on the other end of the mount with small washer. Sound correct?

    I also noticed that the passenger side bushing seemed to compress more than the driver’s side when I torqued them to 30 ft lbs. Not a ton, but I wonder why… maybe the degree of misalignment in the drivers side one had to do with it… Ended up using a box end wrench to pry it so I could get the bolt through the sleeve. Passenger’s side went in like a breeze like most have stated. Had to adjust my little rubber hood stops like a lot of people mentioned as well, though one of them was screwed down a bit more than the other. Seems like it must be normal given the seemingly loosely tolerances body panels/mounts, etc. that a lot of people find on these trucks. I’ll probably just roll with it
     
    Wesdan13[OP] and uhchxrlie like this.

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