Engine Air Filter recommendation

^^^^^^example of anecdotal information by a "self proclaimed filtration expert" with limited (if any) knowledge of the subject. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Apparently at least ONE person's "anecdotal evidence" supports the fact that reducing the life span of a good engine by 50% to 75% is a "catastrophic engine failure" . In that regard, I might agree with him. Beyond that....not so much.

 

Here's the key. Nothing you do to the intake to let in 'more air' is going to make the truck gain any power or MPG, so simple filtration is your goal.

An OE style filter (Wix, Purolator, etc.) changed based on the owner manual recommendations (time or conditions) will be just fine.

Pick one that's on sale and call it a day.

 

Damn Skippy

 

Yep.....

You mean to tell me that K&N filter isn't going to replace a supercharger and force more air into my stock engine, creating huge performance gains for under $100?

Apparently many people subscribe to the theory that more noise = more performance.

A clean "stock" type filter and the air filter housing on any decently engineered vehicle is capable of flowing far more air intake than the engine will use. The engineers don't restrict air intake to the bare minimum required at maximum air flow through a new filter. Even with a stock filter somewhat "dirty", it will pass enough air to maintain adequate performance levels. It's only once that filter is substantially clogged does performance/fuel economy begin to drop off. Allowing air AND dirt to pass through a filter does nothing to increase performance and eventually destroys performance. From my 17 years working in R&D with American Honda, most successful engine manufacturers factor in a 50% to 60% "clogged filter" while still allowing sufficient air flow.

In just about every instance I'm aware of, the "choke point" of getting more air to freely flow into a naturally aspirated 4 stroke engine is the intake runners/valve openings in the cylinder heads.

 

aFe Dry Flo drop-in.............washable and no oiling for people to ruin their MAFs............or oem if you like throwin more money at toyota every so often. And as always, do whatever the fuck you want.

 

holy shitballs everyone

read this web site again. compares GM OEM to 'a bunch of others'

shows you reason WHY OEM is a superior filter (yes this is for GM but applies
to all OEM since they are all in cahoots anyway)

http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevro...rticles/16611-duramax-air-filter-testing.html

 

That is why I did not want to pollute the op's thread and wanted to have a pm based discussion about oiled filters. We all have opinions on this and some are based on logic, here say, or hairy scarey principals.

I agree on standard paper filters. With that said I have respect for oiled k&n filters. We used them on our helicopters and if oiled correctly they were great. We had a learning curve on using them. If you do not over oil or under oil they work great. The problem is too many people think more oil is better. Apply the required amount on the outside and let it soak in for 24 hours.

For me I would rather use stock filters in my vehicles than rather go through the whole cleaning, let dry, and then the oiling process. FWIW

 

AC Delco makes filters for our trucks. I'll use those now.

I think I have some of the old blue door jamb stickers from the 60's somewhere. GM. Mark of Excellence. One for the airbox. Just because.

 

Yeah, I like running with the "in the know" crowd. I think that's how lemmings get along. LOL

 

only OEM spends the millions to test filtration and design them to fit the application, which
is an engine + filter that meets epa requirements and moves the truck along while blocking silicates effectively


other other 'amazing filters' are fools errands, OR for racers who are used to doing the engine teardowns
and rebuilds required to maintain a motor that breathes more freely and ingests more silicates.

 

Yep, and Toyota (TRD) offers a cotton/gauze filter for their vehicles, that's warranty friendly, which must be part of the "?millions" they spend to test filtration, "which is an engine + filter that meets epa requirements and moves the truck along while blocking silicates effectively".
If that's not right, I'm sure they like to hear from you regarding their mistake.

 

yes and ONLY the TRD filter. don't use just any cotton gauze filter, the Toyota TRD one actually has been properly tested

it is a lot more 'designed and engineered' than a K&N piece of shit that is for sure


I am not wrong, I am just an asshole

 

LOL - Hmmmmmm

 

I ran TRD oiled filter on TRD cold air intake for about 130,000 miles. Cleaned & oiled at 15-20,000 intervals.

When I cleaned throttle body after 100,000, it didn't seem any worse than I'd expect normally. Never any MAF issue. Looks fine.

I swapped to AFE ProDry filter a few months ago. Saw a small bump up in mpg.

 

According to one poster here, you have reduced your engine life by 50-75% - NO WAIT - because it was TRD filter, it was properly tested, your good for another 130 K - NO WAIT - AFE Pro dry - now I'm really confused - any of the experts got an opinion?

 

ah....

depends upon how you define better. i would never let mine got that long.

 

do enough reading on those and you'll ditch them... i used them for years and years until i saw some of the studies.... ditched it immediately.

 

BAM!

 

"I think"......

That's where things go astray for ya pard.....

 

Geeez, I'm glad to know I'm in good company! LOL