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Engine Bay Cleaning. Hot or Cold?

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by Kelson, Sep 8, 2011.

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Engine Bay Cleaning

  1. Engine Hot (Running)

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  2. Engine Warm (Not Running)

    25.9%
  3. Engine Cold

    46.5%
  4. Dolphins!

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  1. Aug 31, 2013 at 5:53 AM
    #81
    Biscuits

    Biscuits non compliant

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    Rusty Shackleford
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    SWANGIN AN BANGIN
    Did not know about the automotive simple green. Thanks for the heads up!
     
  2. Sep 7, 2013 at 5:07 PM
    #82
    Munstertoyo

    Munstertoyo Member

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    Hot or cold I've done both on multiple cars. I usually spray some simple green and let it sit a few minutes followed by a rinse. Don't let the simple green sit too long as it may cause deterioration on rubber or plastics.
     
  3. Sep 16, 2013 at 8:12 AM
    #83
    Mr Salty

    Mr Salty "Give up the good to go for the great"

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    Neither, warm is the way to go
     
  4. Oct 19, 2013 at 11:17 PM
    #84
    Nmwill

    Nmwill Well-Known Member

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    Blacked out emblems and grill. 265/75's shortened antenna
    What other importent electrical components should be covered?
     
  5. Nov 12, 2013 at 7:00 AM
    #85
    synth505

    synth505 Well-Known Member

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    Build page to begin soon...
    No love for P21S? Just spray.. hit the crevasses with a swissvax brush, wait 5 minutes and wash it down. Then while the engine is still wet spritz the compartment with AutoGlym Vinyl and Rubber Care. Let dry for a nice semi gloss shine. P21s total wash is an amazing product... just did mine and I will post pics as soon as I can. Its safe for use on paint as well so its good for the hard to scrub road gunk.
     
  6. Dec 14, 2013 at 12:51 PM
    #86
    Tylerm5000

    Tylerm5000 Well-Known Member

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    Engine cool. Use a heavy duty de-greaser. I have used a steam cleaner to remove the filth. I have found that a pressure washer works better around the engine bay (not on the engine) because it is quicker and uses less water. However, it is higher pressure, which can penetrate electric parts. Just be careful. It takes time and several small washes are better than one huge blast with the hose.
     
  7. Dec 18, 2013 at 12:23 PM
    #87
    oldracer

    oldracer Well-Known Member

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    I was in the used car/truck business, for years; and saw a lot of dirty, gunky engines. This was before, the current EPA, had strict rules for every business.

    At that time we could use any chemical, that we could get our hands on; oh by the way, no-one seemed to die.

    Anyway, we would pre-treat the greasy engines with a grease cutter. We would apply that while the engine was warm, to get the most effect on the grease buildup. Then let that set for at least an hour or so, or even longer.

    Then when we got back to the engine, it was cold, exhaust manifolds don't like to be doused with water.

    Warm or hot water worked better; usually the greasy film just washed off.

    I had been around steam power washers in the Military; but that is a different story.

    The cold engine, warn/hot water worked well for us.

    oldracer
     
  8. Jan 8, 2014 at 10:36 AM
    #88
    AWF ROWD

    AWF ROWD ...eats at the " Y " often....

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    I'll ask my wife what she uses on mine..... :/
     
    TACOMA GNOME likes this.
  9. Jan 9, 2014 at 6:10 AM
    #89
    bvlpxm

    bvlpxm Well-Known Member

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    like to clean em cold or cool ( not just tacoma's) . Pull the plastic engin cover to get to the hidden dirt & debris.Simple green spray down & let sit for 5-10 min ( clean cover while waiting) hose it down, spray with dawn or other diluted dish soap, rinse again. Then what I consider a most important part take a leaf blower & dry off as much loose water & blow out all electrical connectors & components. light spray of vinyl protectant ( i just use armor all) & wipe off any residual put the engin cover back. If time & weather permit, I like to leave the hood open for an air dry if possible. started doing this about 20 yrs ago after some electrical problems with some mid 80's vehicles & haven't looked back. works for me
     
  10. Jan 10, 2014 at 11:31 PM
    #90
    TACOMA GNOME

    TACOMA GNOME Well-Known Member

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    Nothing much. I haven't been bitten by the mod bug. A little plasti dip. And a set of Wet Okole seat covers with gun pouch.
    Amen brother
     
  11. Jan 13, 2014 at 2:25 PM
    #91
    toyodajeff

    toyodajeff Well-Known Member

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    Ive heard oven cleaner worked well for cleaning engines, anybody tried water and dawn in a squirt bottle. It would.be super cheap to use.
     
  12. Jan 13, 2014 at 6:36 PM
    #92
    KingKoda

    KingKoda Never Satisfied

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    You know what worked surprisingly well for my engine bay was the tire cleaner at the car wash. Propped the hood and soaked the engine, wheels with the low pressure tire cleaner. Then rinsed the engine bay at low pressure and when you get home wipe down with a shop or clean towel. Kept my driveway clean too.

    Obligatory; don't force into electrical connections and do not pull handle for full pressure. Just rinse at low pressure. The full pressure will push the hood up off the hood support rod.

    Or just get some auto shop engine cleaner and clean away in your driveway. I suppose either is better than the guys at the auto parts stores dumping any and all fluids into the storm drains.
     
  13. Jan 14, 2014 at 3:01 PM
    #93
    AWF ROWD

    AWF ROWD ...eats at the " Y " often....

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    The key to any detail job is to stay ahead of the dirt and grime..you cant wait 4 years and decide to blast the engine bay and come out with spectacular results....Hit it 3 or 4 times a year(unless yer muddin'), you'll be surprised....Warm engine if you have oil based grime buildup....
     
  14. Jan 29, 2014 at 9:33 PM
    #94
    14TACO4X4

    14TACO4X4 Mmmmm... Beer

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    IME the best way to clean an engine bay is with a steam cleaner. A lot of military bases have auto hobby shops and that's where I have cleaned my engine bays. Steam cleaners are obviously very hot and clean really well. Dirt, sand, dust, oil, grease...

    And on a hot engine, hot water and steam isn't going to matter. Only worry is electrical components, but I have never had one issue.
     
  15. Jan 30, 2014 at 12:09 AM
    #95
    Matic

    Matic Locked and Lifted "02" DC TRD.

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    Subbed.
     
  16. Feb 2, 2014 at 5:12 AM
    #96
    flatblack

    flatblack Well-Known Member

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    I drove to the carwash and washed out my engine bay today
    I turned it off; but, almost immediately started spraying with low pressure. So, it was hot
    The amount of sizzling and steam was WAY more than I expected (did this once before):
    as in, I almost left the wash bay cause it was so thick; I got pretty nervous (still kinda am)
    No CELs and no altered performance, after about 30 miles of driving
    Don't know if I'll be doing that again, though
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2014
  17. Mar 21, 2014 at 3:45 PM
    #97
    Roll Tide

    Roll Tide Well-Known Member

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    I have washed my engine bay at a Blue Beacon Truck Wash for years. I leave it running. Soak it with their form of soap, which is basically powdered laundry detergent, and then blow it off with 1500 psi @180 degrees. Then soak it with Hydrafloric (sp?) Acid. Let it sit, for a very short time. Blow it off again with same water. I also do this to the hood, and hood protector, (cloth thingy) and then rinse from a distance with 2000 psi @ 120 degrees. Drop the hood, give it a few revs, and pull out to go home. The drive home is about 45 minutes, and I've never had a problem. No leaks. No electrical problems. It actually needs to be done again.

    Note:

    If you have the deckplate mod complete, don't forget to insert the blank. Hydro locked motors are expensive.
     
  18. Apr 13, 2014 at 9:05 AM
    #98
    bellassaiw10

    bellassaiw10 Formally afroman5015

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