Engine code PO333

My truck keeps reading that I have a Knock sensor code (PO333). I believe it’s rodent damage because it goes on and off. When it goes on my truck seems run funky. Idles a bit rough and drives a lot different. Does it go into a fail safe mode or something along that line. Or is it an engine knock. It’s got very high kms so I am a bit worried.
I could just check to see if it has any rodent damage to it but I have no clue where the sensor and wires are, money is tight and can’t afford sending it into a shop so I’m figuring it out myself. 2007 Tacoma 4.0L V6

 

Yes. It goes into a fail safe mode.
The engine will be limited to maximum retardation on timing.
It will run like crap. (Low power)


P0333 is for the drivers side.
They are absolutely no fun at all to get to.
See the link below for more info.
There’s even a video.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/knock-sensors-and-harness-question.767442/

I’d start with piping the hood and looking around the drivers side head for any “bad” wires.

 

Also, if the problem is intermittent as you say.
I’d like to look at freeze frame data.
I guess it’s possible you have a bad sensor, but I can’t say I’ve heard of them failing.

 

I have a very generic obd2 reader. Only reads me my code. Will I have to get a more high end one if I want to check my freeze frame data.
also I really appreciate it @TnShooter, your helping me out tremendously. This page is awesome!

 

Alot of info in this thread about it too.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...p0333-diy-knock-sensor-harness-repair.547066/

 

Yeah I have been looking closely at that thread.
I know I more then likely have a chewed up sensor. I have claw marks all in my engine.
To replace the sensor is a MAJOR job and I have no clue how to do it. Is it “safe” for the engine to just clear it when it does go on?
Taking it into a shop and replacing the sensor will likely be over $2,000 in labour.

 

It's technically not going to hurt anything but you will likely have lower performance and fuel economy because the PCM will retard ignition timing when that code is present.

 

Every time the code pops up I clear it and it runs okay. But sometimes I will clear it and 2 minutes later it comes back on, really pisses me off lol. Thanks for the response

 

Well it's a constant monitored circuit so the code is gona set the instant a problem is detected on the circuit, the only way to get rid of the code is to fix the problem.
Unfortunately if you follow service info one of the cylinder heads has to come off but if your able to get around the coolant pipes in the valley or cut the brackets to remove them it can be done without removing a head.

 

I am not yet that savvy on toyota ecu’s, but usually the absence of a sensor will just knock down the timing advance a moderate amount. Should be enough to notice a small performance hit, but should NOT run poorly and should have almost no impact at idle. If it is registering knocking, it will drop the advance quite a bit more, likely enough to run funny. I might consider more advanced diagnostics to determine if the ecu is registering knocks. If so, it could be a failing sensor or it could actually be knocking. These parts are not known for failing very often, so I would not dismiss the possibility that you are actually getting detonation. More likely it sees knocking due to a shorted cable from the mouse work and keeps dropping the advance and when it gets to the end of its range of retardation and the knocking is still ther, it throws the code. If it is rodent damage, the good news is that it will likely be in an accessible area for repairs

this generic code means it is getting a high voltage that isn’t quickly resolved with moderate advance reductions.. That means either sensor sees knock, actual or due to sensor failure or some other wiring issue is putting more than 4.5 volts on the line. This is a somewhat serious issue as modern cars get a bit aggressive with advance, knowing they have knock sensors to warn them they went too far. This is how we deal with different grades of octane in modern cars.