Engine Dies After it Warms Up - 96 4cyl 4x4

Look at your airbox, right above your airbox on the your intake tube that goes to the engine you'll see a sensor with wires coming from it..I bet it's your MAF.
96 should be a 3 wire maf.

80% of the time when a Tacoma runs shitty, misfiring, etc..it's usually the MAF
For some odd reason.


Mine was misfiring, running like pure shit, rough idle...and I checked everything..switched coilpacks around, checked plugs, had the injectors flowed and new o rings(it needed those anyway but wasnt the problem) etc..then I checked MAF. Ohm'd it and resistance wasn't to spec as the FSM said.
Picked up a genuine Toyota one for $54
and fixed everything.


There is a heated element with an internal resistor in the maf and they tend to go bad over time..

 

Ok, Thanks everyone.
I've found a mechanic that specializes in Toyotas here in town and looks pretty reputable from the website so I'm gonna try to take it in tomorrow.
http://www.chooselowells.com/

I just pray that they can fix it. I've been dealing with this for 6 months now and not having reliable transportation is really starting to take its toll on me.

I'll post back and let you all know how it goes with these guys.

 

Ok, thanks for the tip.
Ya, the other day when I was messing with it, that was one of the sensors I tried unplugging to see if it effected anything.
It ran the same with it unplugged as it did with it plugged in so maybe thats it.
Perhaps i could try replacing that before I take it in.

What did you do to test it? Is that something I could do on my own from home?
If thats all it was, that would be the best thing ever. I'm very short on cash right now and trying to save every penny I can for my move to California.

Thanks.

 

Just a multi-meter
or a ohmmeter.



Look for that symbol on multi-meter and just check across terminals..I can't remember what pin connectors you have to read. but there is 2 different sets..with different resistance reading across each one.


It's in the FSM, but it was a pita to find it..I'll browse through it for you and look..might take me a while.

P.S. if you unplugged it and it's still running, that's awkward..I unplug mine and it just dies..it's has nothing to meter the air to send back voltage resistances to the ECU to determine intake air volume to calculate fuel trims.

P.S. A genunine Toyota maf sensor is not cheap, hence why I put the icon..I get stuff at really good discounts. (No, I will not give you my phone numbers you leachers!! haha just kidding just kidding but it's just for personal use only for me, sorry guys)

 

It's raining pretty hard right now but as soon as it clears up I'll go out and mess with it again. It was a about two weeks ago when I was working on it before and I don't remember exactly what it did.

I tried unplugging two sensors, both on the air tube going to the engine from the air filter box.
One of them I remember I unplugged and the truck didn't run at all so I knew that wasn't the problem. I think that was the one closest to the engine.

The other I'm not exactly sure what happened. I'll try it again and see.

 

A off brand one is about $90-150..


But you have a velocity style one..so it might be more expensive

 

Ok, for the velocity style MAF sensors you need to do a physical test via blowing air across the meter itself and check voltage across VG and E3 terminals to see if it's fluctuates(it's metering air if it does that)...if it fluctuates it's good.


EG-146 is the page number stating this in the FSM for 1996 trucks. Actual page number of the PDF file is page 200

 

ok, found it. Thanks!



So all I need to test this is a volt meter then right?
Sounds easy enough.

 

Correct

 

quick question before I try to test the MAF tomorrow.
If i blow air through and it registers current then does that mean its 100% fine.
I mean is it one of those things thats either working or not |\O? Or is there a gray area where it might register a signal but could still be messed up?

 

I'm not 100% sure to be honest..
On that style and according to FSM instructions..the voltage needs to fluctuate(from different amounts of air traveling in)..the only time it wouldn't fluctuate is if you had a constant spot-on velocity stream across it...which is near impossible without some specific equipment(something like a air-tight box with a real close tolerance fan inside of it)

My resistance was pretty far off when I checked across the 2 different sets of pin connectors on mine...it was out of spec, so obviously wasn't working right. I believe it's one of those things, if it goes bad..it doesn't go slowly..it just goes and you need a new one...there isn't enough tolerance in the resistance to where it will function correctly if out of spec...it's a tight tolerance part if you know what I mean?

I checked with 2 different meters just to verify...a cheap o, then checked with my Fluke.
It read same exact both times.


I wish I could answer that question 100% but I'm not sure

 

Amen to that!

I was taking my gf on a date the other day and had a no start. FUCK! Luckily I keep my tool box in the car so I could use my ohm meter to diagnose. Ended up being a funky TPS issue. These sensors on old trucks with grounding electrical problems can be a nightmare.

 

I took it in yesterday and they called me a few minutes ago to say that they think it's due to a cracked ignition coil.
I told them to go ahead and fix it ($400) so we'll see. I sure hope this works.

Thats all the money I've got right now. I'm going to have to start selling some things on craigslist in order to even pay for that.

 

Erm, you coulda did that yourself...just switch coilpacks around to see which one is bad..then unbolt it and put a new one in..(there like $70)




Wait..you have a 96...so it's a dizzy motor..

 

What is a dizzy motor? is that good or bad?
I googled "dizzy motor" but couldn't really find any info on what it is.

 

means your engine has a distributor vs newer models that have a coil on each plug

 

I don't know man.
Damn it.

I'll let you guys know tomorrow when they call me. I just hope this fixes it.

 

That's what I'm trying to say...it's still super cheap though(didn't know the price on individual ignition coils for dizzy motors)



Unless it took them 5 hours to troubleshoot it @ $50 a hour..that's $250, then $40 for part plus 15% markup, plus "2 hours" labor to install it @ $50 a hour..that's about $400..



Dunno what your shop charges, but that's just a general idea to understand the concept ^



Man, tough luck..