Engine on stand, what to replace/reseal "while your in there..."

After confirming low compression in all cylinders (5vzfe) I ordered a salvage yard engine from an 02 4Runner with 204k. The seller confirmed the engine had 170-180 compression across all cylinders (Intermountain Auto Recycling in ID).

Engine was delivered yesterday and while it was packaged exceptionally well it is an oily mess. I did get it on a stand this evening and pulled the valve covers, fortunately aside from some varnishing there was no sludge buildup.

I already plan to do T-belt, water pump, etc and valve covers as they were an obvious area of a leak.

I am thinking front main, remove and reseal oil pump and replace o-ring, front main, oil pan, and oil diptsick o-ring. The rear main looks okay-ish but when I pulled the flyweel oil leaked from the lowest bolt. Is this normal? Wasnt wet before I pulled the bolt.

Other options: Cam seals, oil cooler, lower intake.

Do not want to go too crazy as I do not plan to keep the truck but want to ensure its good to go for the next owner once its done.

Suggestions on what to do and where to stop?

 

Always always always rear main.

The bolts that hold the flywheel on actually seal oil, make sure to clean them and use thread lock or it will leak.

Cam seals and oil pump are all good ideas.

Clean the oil pickup as well.

Starter contacts are another thing you can check/replace now as well.

 

Does the rear main cover need to be pulled and resealed as well?

 

its been ages for me to see a 3.4 out of the truck but if it has a plate you should definitely re-seal it. Typically we remove the plate, clean, install the seal with the plate off, then install the seal and plate together.

 

You mentioned most of it, pinion bearing while you’re doing the rear main, reseal coolant bypass pipe between the heads and knock sensor wire harness while doing valve covers, good idea to get to everything you can, it’ll never get any easier

 

Might as well do intake manifold gaskets and throttle body gasket while you're there.

Not sure if these are applicable given the 'not keeping the truck' sentiment, but I'll throw them out there anyway. The future owner would be grateful.
Knock Sensors/Knock Sensor Harness. Probably skip the sensors themselves given their ridiculous price tag ($500), but the harness isn't exorbitant and it has a tendency to just fall apart after baking in the engine valley for 20+ years
Could send the injectors in to Motorwest for a cleaning/rebuild as well.

 

If it has an oil cooler you can clean that up.

 

Can tell us what you had to pay for the engine, including tax & shipping?

 

I paid $1275 shipped to my door. The price seemed steep until I looked around locally. B&R Auto Wrecking had a few with decent compression but both were over 300k, G&R had one that had "unknown miles" out of a rolled truck for $1600. I searched through ebay for starters than called the recycler direct. Got more details and better price that way. They dropped the price $50 as they charge a CC processing fee.

 

Alright... Stopped by the dealer today and ordered: cam seals, crank seals, rear main, oil pump o-ring, dipstick o-ring, and oil cooler gaskets. I popped off the crank pulley this evening (used the 2x4 method and worked perfect) and found that the timing belt is off by multiple teeth. Is it as simple as disassembling and realigning the crank to the correct position? I've only done a few belts and everything lined up correctly before removal. Don't want to over/under think the process.

 

That belt only lines up the initial first time installed. After rotation marks don't line up.

 

They will but it takes a lot of rotations - 64 or another multiple of 4 I believe.

 

Yeah, I spared that detail. Lol

 

And idk what “not keeping it” looks like, but since the timing has to be redone, I’d do a new water pump too.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vHC46ypHxWc

 

I believe that only applies to the marks on the timing belt itself correct? I am referring to the mark on the crank (dot) lined up with the mark on the oil pump and the cam gears to the notches on the rear cam cover. All should be in a 12 o'clock position correct? Currently when the cams are lined up 12 o'clock the timing gear is 11 o'clock ish. Supposedly the truck ran and drove (totaled into a pole by the pics) before it was pulled. And yes, new timing kit and t-stat just ordered.

 

Camshaft Pulley marks and oil pump body, yes

Pole meet 4runner, damn

The marks on belt won't realign but the marks you have circled will if timed correctly.

 

I was going to suggest post #6 with the knock sensor cables. But once you get all the "Covers" back on, I'd give it a good hose down with a good degreaser and a mild power wash. Keep us posted on the progress.