Engine overheats, coolant level drops

Did you see it coming from the water pump area? If so, I think you may have found your problem. My experience with thermostats is they are very simple and reliable. Never had any problem with one except one very old (like 20+ years) and the metal spring had broken in one place causing the seating valve to be cocked sideways and not seating properly.

One thing I can add is if you do replace the Tstat, get the same temp rating as the original or whatever the manual states. Don't try to change temps on these newer computer controlled cars, it can do funky things with the computer inputs for example in very cold weather.

Temp rating is just the temp that is supposed to open up at and a lower number is not necessarily better, I've been there and made that mistake before.

 

but do you know where it goes ? i couldn't find anything like what is in the picture when i disassembled the thermostat last night. it looks like it goes between the thermostat and the intake the thermostat goes into but there wasn't anything like that in my case

 

pretty sure

 

that would be correct sir. now it's all clear.

BTW, is 16332 a hose that takes the coolant from that intake in the front of the engine (right above the serp belt) to the back of the engine, where it actually goes into the engine ? i thought the coolant went in right there where the thermostat is and into the water pump. is the water pump not in the picture ?

 

Also, now that I'm ordering a new water pump, RockAuto is asking me if I want a water pump 41 mm wrench. Do I need it ? Can I use a plumbing pipe wrench or really big channel locks ?

 

Is that a no?

 

There's a pretty easy water pump test. Remove thermostat. remove top radiator (return) hose from radiator. Have someone crank motor. If a big heavy stream shoots out, water pump is fine. If a trickle or nothing, and you are sure the radiator is full, then the impeller vanes have gone sneakers-up. Some water pumps are easy. Some are a BITCH (ricers with water pump driven by the timing belt, for example). For the latter I would always check before replacing.

Main warning here is (a) DON'T just fill reservoir after an overheating incident. Make certain the radiator is full, and leave the cap off as motor runs to keep filling as air burps out. (b) worry the hell out of it making sure to get as much air out as possible. Air will dissolve in the coolant over time but if you have a half-radiator full of air, that's not going to happen. (c) don't do the ultimate bad thing (depending on vehicle) and run pure water for a while. If you have to, keep the A/C OFF. You can freeze the heater core depending on the airflow through there, and a simple problem just turned into a much more painful one.

 

The tech used a specific funnel designed to attach onto the radiator in place of the cap. They'd fill the system and keep the funnel about half full. Then they'd "burp" the car- the bubbles have to go all the way up and out of the funnel. This is easier than trying to keep the system full by standing there an adding coolant as it's spewing bubbles out of the open radiator cap.



They come with a long-stemmed stopper. When done burping and no more bubbles come out, put the stopper into the bottom of the funnel and lift out- dump the remaining coolant from the funnel into the overflow.

 

They come with adapters to fit the radiators of many different cars.

 

What I would do is test the thermostat first in some boiling water. It sure doesn't look like anything wrong with it from the picture. No sediment clogging or a broken spring or anything. So I am betting it still works (opens up at the right temp) just fine. If so put that all back together. Then fill the system back up with water, make sure the radiator is full. Leave the radiator cap off and start the engine and keep watching the radiator level, adding more water if it drops down. As soon as the engine starts warming (watch the temp gage inside) the thermostat should open up and you would see a river flowing through the radiator (as described by others above) if the water pump is circulating. If the temp gage gets to the normal mid-gage setting and you still don't see the circulating river in the radiator, then assume the pump is not working. That is if you already know the thermostat is not sticking in the closed position. And assuming there's no other blockage some where in the engine block/radiator system.

And shut off the engine at this point before the gage gets to the high or danger level.

 

Ooh I could use one of those funnels!

 

Any word yet on what's going on?

 

I ordered a thermostat and water pump replacements but they haven't arrived yet

 

Cool. I hope that works out for you!

 

I have installed a new water pump and a thermostat but haven't run the engine yet.

I discovered that, when this first happened, when the coolant was steaming out of both the rad cap and the resi tank, and whan I opened the rad cap when it cooled down, there was an inner gasket at the rad opening where it meets the cap that was melted down and in pieces and I had to throw it away. It was not a part of the cap. Here is a picture of what that opening looks like.

Can anyone confirm that I am missing a gasket there ?

 

I don't think so. But your radiator looks different. All gaskets are on the cap.
Is that original radiator?

 

Yes. Thanks

 

Strange I have 07 too and that whole piece is plastic on mine but yours look metal ( or is it just a picture?)
Anyway no gaskets on that part, there are two gaskets on the cap. If you found pieces of gasket, I suggest getting new radiator cap.

 

Done already

 

That should do it. Put coolant, burp that baby and let's see how it runs