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Engine Removal Tips (how do I get this transmission off?)

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by monkeyodeath, Apr 28, 2019.

  1. Apr 28, 2019 at 8:16 PM
    #1
    monkeyodeath

    monkeyodeath [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lots of heavy wheeling has finally taken out the engine mount perch on the driver's side of my truck, so time to pull the engine and weld some better ones in there.

    Any tips on getting the engine separated from the transmission? I'm pretty sure I've got everything freed up, but just can't get the engine to separate no matter how much I reef on it. 99.99% sure I got all the bolts, including the secret 2 on the top.

    Also, the part of the harness that extends across the front of oil pan to the starter -- does this pull off somehow? Seems like it should stay with the truck.
     
  2. Apr 28, 2019 at 8:39 PM
    #2
    BeLance89

    BeLance89 Well-Known Member

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    For the started harness, there are two 10mm bolts holding the plastic casing onto the motor. Did you unbolt the torque converter, or is yours a manual?
     
  3. Apr 28, 2019 at 8:40 PM
    #3
    monkeyodeath

    monkeyodeath [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ah, guess I didn't see them, it's pretty crusted with mud down there.

    I have a manual trans.
     
  4. Apr 28, 2019 at 8:46 PM
    #4
    BeLance89

    BeLance89 Well-Known Member

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    I’m not experienced with the 5 speed on these but I would check the ENGINE side for “secret bolts” keeping the trans from separating.
     
  5. Apr 28, 2019 at 8:55 PM
    #5
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    Ratchet strap the tcase to the rear axle and shake the shit out of the trans. I used my winch and pully to brake mine free.
     
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  6. Apr 28, 2019 at 9:15 PM
    #6
    monkeyodeath

    monkeyodeath [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You keep the trans mounted to the frame?
     
  7. Apr 28, 2019 at 9:17 PM
    #7
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    No, I removed the crossmember from the frame and transmission.
     
  8. Apr 28, 2019 at 9:20 PM
    #8
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    MarMount mod could be an easier solution to your mount. Not sure what failed exactly but I'm guessing the rubber separated. A bolt through the middle will fix it.
     
  9. Apr 28, 2019 at 10:17 PM
    #9
    monkeyodeath

    monkeyodeath [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ah man I wish but the tabs on the engine perch welded to the frame straight broke off (rubber part split apart too and half the mount was just loose, rattling around the skid plate). Seems to happen fairly often with folks who offroad pretty heavily or have lower gears in their truck. Plan is to finish pulling the engine, cut the old perches off, and weld a beefier set in there.
     
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  10. Apr 28, 2019 at 10:22 PM
    #10
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    The v6 dowels are notorious for seizing, I often soak the pins with penetrating fluid and comeback and whack the living fuck out of the dowels as best possible.
     
  11. Apr 28, 2019 at 10:46 PM
    #11
    monkeyodeath

    monkeyodeath [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ah, so I can see the dowels from the back of the bellhousing? Where I took out the bolts?
     
  12. Apr 29, 2019 at 12:55 AM
    #12
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    I made a special tool a chisel welded to about a 2' length of pipe.

    Tap between the bell housing and the engine going from side to side

    it helps if you can have some one pulling on things at the same time alone just takes longer.

    just look there might be a harness bolted to the top of the trans on the right side that tends to be missed
     
  13. Apr 29, 2019 at 6:43 PM
    #13
    monkeyodeath

    monkeyodeath [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ah jeez. Figured out that there are some really small bolts on a manual that hold the lower plate part to the bell housing. Once I'd removed those the engine finally started to move. The bolts are not easy to get to, had to come in from the front with a bunch of extensions.

    How are you guys resting the engine on the ground when it's out of the truck? Would like to do valve cover gaskets and I need to get the engine off the hoist. Blocks of wood or something?
     
  14. Apr 29, 2019 at 6:54 PM
    #14
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    Old tire works pretty good to rest to engine on.
     
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  15. Apr 29, 2019 at 7:34 PM
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    BeLance89

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    When you say “front”... do you mean engine side? Glad you were able to get it separated! And I’ve always used an old tire as well. Could probably pick one up from a scrap yard or a shop that recycled tires, like pep boys or similar. They have to pay to recycle the tires so you’d be doing them a favor.
     
  16. Apr 29, 2019 at 7:53 PM
    #16
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    When I did the lower bellhousing bolts on my truck, I removed the transmission mount and let the whole thing lean towards the rear differential. I used about six feet of extensions to get to it.
     
  17. Apr 29, 2019 at 7:55 PM
    #17
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    Old tire is best. Or 2x4's up the wazoo.
     
  18. Apr 29, 2019 at 10:29 PM
    #18
    monkeyodeath

    monkeyodeath [OP] Well-Known Member

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    By "front" I mean from the front of the truck. The head of the bolt faces the opposite direction as the rest, conveniently.
     
  19. Apr 30, 2019 at 12:30 AM
    #19
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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  20. Apr 30, 2019 at 6:15 AM
    #20
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    If you don't have an engine stand, get four or five old wooden pallets and stack them. Cut out the top one so the oil pan sits down in it and rests on the flange, not the sump portion. Put rubber strip pieces of an old inner tube or something along where the pan flange will sit. Will give you a good work height and shouldn't hurt the pan. If your replacing the pan gasket you could just remove the pan and let it sit on the mating surface. I'd still put down some rubber or something just to keep wood out of the bolt holes.
     

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