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Engine revs up more than it puts out :(

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by edgar1hurtado, Oct 25, 2011.

  1. Oct 25, 2011 at 12:13 AM
    #1
    edgar1hurtado

    edgar1hurtado [OP] Member

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    i have a mostly stock 2000 xtracab trd taco with 206,xxx miles on it. engine has never been rebuilt, and my problem is that when i step on it, the engine revs up, but im not going very fast at all. i tried looking it up but im still unsure of what the problem is. i think its maybe tranny slipping ??
     
  2. Oct 25, 2011 at 8:15 AM
    #2
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    I dunno , but don't let it go too long, my trans is smoked.....



    [​IMG]
     
  3. Oct 25, 2011 at 11:36 AM
    #3
    UndefinedTaco

    UndefinedTaco I'll eat all your food.

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    It's an 89 Toyota Pickup. I got some stuff done to it.. FJ axles going under it soon.
    Torque converter or trans is toast like 4WD's LOL.
     
  4. Oct 25, 2011 at 11:43 AM
    #4
    stunt man hans

    stunt man hans DISPLACED VIKING LIVING IN GEORGIA

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  5. Oct 25, 2011 at 11:44 AM
    #5
    stunt man hans

    stunt man hans DISPLACED VIKING LIVING IN GEORGIA

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    time for that diesel and hd manual conversion kit from diesel toyz
     
  6. Oct 25, 2011 at 12:02 PM
    #6
    tacoman78

    tacoman78 Well-Known Member

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    Wow, you're lucky to be moving at all. When I see that at work in the shop, I see dollar signs. Especially if it's a Toyota. Parts aren't cheap and used tranny's aren't either. Hope you don't get raked over the coals when you get it rebuilt. If it's as bad inside as it is in your fingers your looking probably around $3-$3.5k depending on how damaged your internals are in your truck.

    Everyone checks their engine oil, but people forget that the transmission has oil to and you better check that. Your transmission doesn't just all of a sudden go out on you, it's been going, you just didn't notice it cause it took so long and you got used to it. By the time the transmission goes, it's gone and it's gonna cost to fix it.
     
  7. Oct 25, 2011 at 5:18 PM
    #7
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Although I agree with your logic, this trans gave no real indication of impending failure prior to shitting itself, no drama just driving down the road at highway speed & grenaded itself
     
  8. Oct 25, 2011 at 6:39 PM
    #8
    hayabusa3303

    hayabusa3303 Well-Known Member

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    I have seen autos just go out. Oils are good and red in color no burned smell on the oil and filter was changed less than 12,000 miles ago.

    Tranny's are so tight today if one thing is .025in off it will take a tranny apart in time.

    Auto trannys remind me of a helicopter 10000 parts trying to hit each other if not in sync.
     
  9. Oct 25, 2011 at 8:12 PM
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    edgar1hurtado

    edgar1hurtado [OP] Member

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    so would changing my tranny oil fix the problem, or just prevent it from getting worse?
     
  10. Oct 25, 2011 at 9:06 PM
    #10
    Blurple

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    autos are funny, it you havent changed the fluid in like 80k miles.... dont change it. ive seen new fluid ruin trannys and start slipping the minute you put new fluid in.
     
  11. Oct 26, 2011 at 2:54 PM
    #11
    x2468

    x2468 Well-Known Member

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    Ive read that the best is to drain and fill it multiple times over the course of a couple months, than to go to a place and have it flushed. I guess the flush kicks up a lot of gunk.
     
  12. Oct 26, 2011 at 2:54 PM
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    x2468

    x2468 Well-Known Member

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    Can you get a video of your tach and speedo as you are accelerating to show us exactly what is going on?
     
  13. Oct 26, 2011 at 3:59 PM
    #13
    Blurple

    Blurple Well-Known Member

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    yea the flushes help alot more than just a drain in fill. i did a flush on my boys hyundia and his was slipping pretty good, after the flush is was fine and its been 20k miles.
    my suggestion is too take it to a place that does BG services and ask for the BG Transmission flush. the honda dealer i work for does them so alot of places should too
     
  14. Oct 26, 2011 at 9:04 PM
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    x2468

    x2468 Well-Known Member

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    Well I was just passing on what I had read in multiple places about high mileage transmissions. Especially those that have not been flushed in a long time, or never flushed. I know that my last cars tranny failed 3k miles after it's first flush at 90k miles. For what that's worse.
     
  15. Oct 26, 2011 at 9:16 PM
    #15
    Texoma

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    If you do a flush on a tranny that is having probs, the flush may tear the clutches off the gears. If you go to a good mechanic and ask for a flush, they will tell you that, they may even tell you not to change the oil too. My suggestion to you is to drain the trans fluid into a clean pan, then smell it. If it smells burnt, filter it, like through a big paint filter to get all the chunks n shavings out, and put the old fluid back in. New fluid will swell things up that haven't been swollen and eff something up. Now if it smells fine and has decent color like red or brown, you should be ok take change the fluid. But if it is very dark brown or black and smells burnt, don't swap fluid til you can get the trans rebuilt. Which rebuilds are bout $2500
     
  16. Oct 26, 2011 at 9:34 PM
    #16
    Bishop2Queens6

    Bishop2Queens6 Well-Known Member

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    ^^^This. My aunt decided one day to get the transmission fluid flush on her 2003 Lexus RX350 with 120,000 miles on the clock.

    The next day it was slipping like crazy and required a full rebuild.

    The trick I've heard is you slowly dilute the old fluid with new fluid, as in, take a half a quart out and put half a new quart in, every 2 weeks until the total volume removed is equal to the volume held overall. So a if your transmission holds 5 quarts total, take out half a quart and put in half a new quart every 2 weeks for 10 weeks.
     
  17. Oct 27, 2011 at 9:40 AM
    #17
    tacoman78

    tacoman78 Well-Known Member

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    If you change 5 quarts at a time your going to be fine. If it starts to slip after you put new fluid in it, it was going to start slipping anyways. New fluid isn't the cause of slippage. Neither is the so called "swelling." the Clutch surface is not a porous surface that absorbs fluid and swells. The clutch surface is just like the clutch surface of the clutch on a 5 speed. It's a compound that grabs onto the steels inside the transmission creating friction which then turns the drum. The fluid is used to apply pressure to the clutches and steels so that the gears will engage.

    If your transmission slips because you put new fluid it in, your clutches were already gone and you just found out before any more damage could have been done, which is a good thing. May not seem like it now, but if you keep driving with bad fluid you will cause more damage to your planet assemblies and your gear train will could end up cost you thousands in parts alone, not including labor.

    In my shop when a customer comes in complaining that their transmission is slipping, the first question we ask is when was the last time you had your transmission serviced? The typical answer is, "I have to service my transmission?" That's when we know that this is going to be a big problem. Sometimes a simple service can actually eliminate a slipping transmission. It's mainly because the new oil is just that new, it still has it's viscosity and it's going to allow the transmission to work more freely than it previously did with burnt bad oil. If you can catch the problem early enough you can prevent an extremely costly rebuild.

    My advice (transmission shop manager): Keep up with the regular maintenance of your vehicles. When the time comes to service the transmission, DO IT. Go to a reputable shop and have it done, DO NOT FLUSH! ONLY SERVICE! 5 quarts, a filter and a gasket, that's all you need. You will save yourself a lot of money if you simply maintain your vehicle. Check your transmission fluid at LEAST once a month. This will help you determine if you need to get it serviced sooner than the recommended 30k miles. When you feel something going wrong in your transmission (i.e. shifts hard, shifts late, randomly shifts out of overdrive "hunting," delayed engagement of the gears, having to rev the engine to get the car going, etc.) stop what your doing, go to a reputable transmission shop, and have them take a look at it. The last thing you want is to drive it and damage it more because you thought it was a one time thing. I cannot tell you how many people come into my shop and say something is wrong and we ask when it started and they say about 1-2 months ago. They've damaged the transmission so much by that point that it's going to be $2k+ bill.

    OK thesis finished, my last bit of advice, if your going to have someone rebuild the transmission, it's a high price, you think something fishy might be going on, or you just don't know enough about them to know what parts are there and how much they cost, ask to see the parts that are being replaced. In most states it's a law that they have to be held for 3 days after the transmission is completed, you can even ask to keep them. Most shops will either recycle your parts or have them rebuilt and then the shop will resell them, which makes them even more money in the end (all transmission shops do it it's not an isolated case, we do it at my shop. If you don't want them, I'll take them and get a few bucks for them). Ask to talk to the builder and to see the parts that need to be replaced, and don't be afraid to ask the builder why they need to be replaced. If you can't talk to the builder or the builder can't tell you why they need to be replaced, have your stuff boxed up and take your car somewhere else.

    That's my $1.50.
     
  18. Oct 27, 2011 at 10:11 AM
    #18
    UndefinedTaco

    UndefinedTaco I'll eat all your food.

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    It's an 89 Toyota Pickup. I got some stuff done to it.. FJ axles going under it soon.
    my advice don't buy automatics,
    and change the fluid every 65k miles in your manual and you'll be fine
    oh and if it's a Toyota W59 transmission, don't slam 2nd gear too much..you'll snap the synchro off into pieces
     
  19. Oct 28, 2011 at 8:22 AM
    #19
    tacoman78

    tacoman78 Well-Known Member

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    I agree. If you really want to eliminate the headaches of an automatic, then get a manual. Much easier to take care of and they actually prolong the life of many other parts of the vehicle if you drive them properly. I remember when I was in college I had a Toyota Matrix XRS (6spd) that was a fun car. I drove it 5 years and never changed the brake pads or rotors cause I hardly ever used them. I've changed the rotors on my truck twice in less than 2 years. That might be cause I got some cheap rotors but still. I wish my truck was a 5 speed, but the wife put the kabosh on the whole manual transmission after someone hit her at a stop light when she stalled out in the intersection. Only my toys can be manuals now. :(
     
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