Engine Swap Questions

Hello, I have a 95 4x4 2.7L Tacoma. I bought this truck very cheap knowing that the previous owner really didn’t keep up with maintenance, but i really wanted a small Toyota truck and was willing to deal with the prices to repair it.

The engine is in bad shape and sounds and runs horrible, but i have found another 2.7 engine with only 38k miles on it. I just wanted to know how hard it would be to swap out the old engine with the new one. Would this be something that me and a couple friends could do, or would i need to take it to a shop?

I have basic knowledge of engine, such as replacing water pump, radiator, etc but i have never swap out an engine before. Is it just a plug and play or is there a lot more involved?
One last question, if this is something that I need to have professionally done, what would be a good price range to have this swap done?
Thank you and appreciate your time.

 

it is something you cab do with help. If the "new" engine is the same model, then I suggest you clean it upon the outside, look for leaks and replace any gaskets before installing. Here is pretty much what you might need to change the engine:
1. disconnect and remove battery
2. drain cooling system and remove radiator
3. remove starter
4, disconnect all wiring to engine ( a lot of plugs and sockets)
5. remove the intake hose assy,
6. disconnect heater hoses.
7. disconnect throttle linkage
8. disconnect any vacuum hoses in the way.
9. disconnect fuel line
10. disconnect any other wires in the way
11. loosen bolts holding engine to tranny
you may have to remove the hood
12. strap on an engine hoist, connect to engine picker or something suitable
13. disconnect motor mounts
14. remove all bolts to tranny
15, slowly crank engine up making sure it is clear of wires, hoses, etc,
16. removal is reverse of this.

While replacing motor, you will want to pay attention to condition of hoses, belts and if they look at all iffy, replace them at the same time.

 

Just a thought- have you tried tuning the engine and looking at basic wear items? maybe the engine you have just needs a little TLC.

 

Thank you for your reply. I just found out that the engine is from a 97 tacoma and my truck is a 95. Would there be any issues? Also the engine that i'm thinking of buying doesnt come with a wiring harness, would i still be able to use the wires from my old engine?

or would it just be cheaper to try and rebuild my engine? I have about thousand dollars that i can put into the engine.

Sorry for all the questions, i just really want to make sure that i make the right decision

 

I have been told that will work. Always use the wiring harness from your vehicle. you should be able to bolt all your accessories from your long block to the new one. I have been told that the 95-99 2.7 engines are all the same, long block wise. the FI and other things external may be different, but you can swap those out.

 

For you, i think the "good" used motor is a better option than rebuilding. It is certainly cheaper and quicker.

 

Ok thanks. Like i said this would be the biggest project that i have done so far on this truck. I have replaced so many parts and im eager to finally get it fixed and running.

 

and from what i have heard these engines last forever, so if this used engine only has 38k on it i should be good for a long time.

 

if you found that engine on ebay, well those JPM used engines are a little misleading because they are used on an island so the run a long time but don't get many miles on them plus the mileages are often guessed at or "averaged" so you have no true real idea but I wouldn't avoid them just based on that but just assume they have the same wear levels of an engine of twice the mileage they say it has.

one more thing is these are not USA engines so everything will need to be used from your old engine as far as wiring sensors and exhaust manifolds.

personally I would be more trusting of an engine from a wrecked truck at the local salvage yard where you can trust knowing the true mileage and can hear and see it run before buying it. engines you buy that are not in the truck can be good or junk, you just don't know. (burning oil, weak compression, engine knocking)

this is why its best to buy one from a wrecked truck so you know it was being driven and can assume its a good working engine when it was wrecked.

 

The engine that I’m thinking about buying is being sold by a guy in a nearby town. The truck was owned by an older man and he wrecked into a fence pole on the farm so his family decided to just part it out.

 

yes that sounds like a fantastic deal, just be sure it runs fine before you buy it and pull it out. that's just the perfect way to find a replacement engine because you know its honest and true.

as long as you use your intake manifold I don't think there will be any problems with any sensors or anything, but if there is something that comes up im sure its going to be a simple remedy to leave whatever it is disconnected. if you went the other way and went from a 97 engine to a 95 then it might throw a code if there were any missing sensors but you should have no issues at all using a newer engine.

also, while you have the motor out (and before you reinstall it), replace the fuel filter (hidden under the intake manifold) and I think you should relocate it like I did here so its easy to replace in the future. see how to do it here: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...diy-2-4l-2-7l-fuel-filter-relocation-mod.html

 

appreciate your time and thank you for the advice. This site has been so helpful with the many problems i have encountered so far with this truck.

 

one other thing to look at is '95-96 have a distributor and '97 and newer don't, they use coil packs. I've actually heard both ways on the '97 so it may have been a mid year switch, all I know is my '97 has coil packs instead of a distibuter. Anywho if the new motor has coil packs then it most likely won't have the hole for the distributor in the head and the wiring will probably be different. All in all if your swapping out exact same engines its a relatively simple task of unhooking everything and hooking everything back up. What exactly makes you believe it needs a new engine? Have you done any actual diagnosis like comp. Test, checked for mixed fluids, blue/white smoke? Running rough doesn't necessarily mean bad engine, like mentioned before maybe she just needs some TLC.

 

My engine has 218k miles on it and has been very neglected by the previous owner. The passenger side of the engine is caked in oil which i think is coming from the valve cover. When i start the engine it has a rattle noise to it like a piece of metal has come loose and is bouncing around inside. It doesn't smoke at all and i haven't noticed any fluids mixing. It has a rough idle and at times it seems like its going to stall out at idle.Another thing, i don't know if this is a big deal or not on gasoline engines like it is on diesels but when i take the oil cap off it has significant blowby.

I don't mind trying to rebuild or replace the engine all together. I just want to fix it up so that i don't have to worry about it for the next couple years

 

Very easy to do i have had to do my engine a few times due to some unfornuate luck. But it takes me by myself 10 hours to drive in pull the motor and drive out with the truck running. Very simple job.

I always take the intake manifold off in the truck to make it easier and have more room but can be done without removing. Also remember the motor sits at a angle and can be a pain to position in the truck when installing

 

I just noticed that the new engine has a coil pack and my engine does not. Would I still be able to use this engine?

 

I'm sure the wiring is different between the coil pack engine and the dizzy engine, plus the computer is also probably different so I don't think it woudl be plug and play unless you had all the electronics to run the '97. Personally id do a little work to the original motor to see if its salvagable. First off id look into the noise, if it is serious then no need to put more into it. I'd start with checking the valves, if they're out of spec it will make noise. Do a comp. Test to check overall health. Plugs wires, cap rotor, clean maf and throttle body. The oil on pass. Side of block I would guess is the oil filter housing o-rings, about $15 for parts and 10 min worth of work to replace them. I've read the excessive blowby on these engines is normal, something with the design. I know mine will hit the underside of the hood with oil if I open the cap and it runs like a champ. 218k is not alot for these engines, so unless you find actual evidence of a major failure I wouldn't give up on her unless you simply want to replace the engine just to replace it.