Engine Swap

700? 400? Wow! I might buy it just for newer plugs!

LKQ asks for more than $2k for these bad boys.

 

Hello,

We removed the engine today and all went good. We spent the first 90 minutes unplugging wires and labeling both ends as well as the new engine, all plugs thus far appear to be identical between my 05 engine and the new 11 engine. I was surprised that the 2011 engine (automatic) uses the same flexplate/flywheel bolts (grade 11) as my 2005. I was also surprised that there is no pilot bearing. Plan to degrease/pressure wash engine bay/trans and get flywheel resurfaced tomorrow then I will pick away at the reinstall this week.

Still very confused by the Toyota dealer comment that the new 2011 engine which was in an automatic will not work in my 2005 manual truck as the ECU/ECM needs to be reprogrammed... I guess time will tell for certain but I sure don't see an ECU/ECM mounted on the engine

Thanks,

Damon

 

They wanted you to let them replace your 05 head gaskets because they make the money, they don't make anything when you do a engine swap.

 

Toyotaman: I figured they would be a little more helpful since I have purchased a few cars/parts there as well... I will kindly "update" them if it starts right up and runs great.

 

I hope the swap goes well and just saying some dealers even Toyota ones have been known to benefit there self instead of the customer, just my 2 cents.

 

Bingo!
The dealers are idiots and don't know what they are talking about or take you as an idiot so they can do the work

GL with the new engine install.

 

X2, good luck with the swap.

 

"Still very confused by the Toyota dealer comment that the new 2011 engine which was in an automatic will not work in my 2005 manual truck"

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

maybe they were thinking you were putting in the automatic trany, then you would need to have the ECU reprogrammed, all you did was swap iron for iron, should workie just fine.....

 

I would agree with this. Plan to keep your old sensors so don't damage them during the r&r of the engine.

The 2012 and after are supposed to have different heads.

If the engine you are installing has oem exhaust manifolds, they should be better than the early style also. If you have headers it doesn't matter.

PK

 

PK: No damage, going to sell original engine so need to keep it nice. Yes the 2011 exhaust manifolds look much better (pics below) and also appear to "bolt in". I plan to take some pictures and post with some possible helpful tips when done. Thanks

Bldegle2: there was no confusion on the engine swap, I gave them both VIN numbers and that is how they learned the new engine was from an automatic equipped truck. They said the engine was programmed to run with an automatic trans so it probably would not work. Time will tell...

Thanks for all the comments.

Damon

 

"They said the engine was programmed to run with an automatic trans so it probably would not work. Time will tell..."

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

again probably thought you were going to put in the automatic, the engine itself is programmed/controlled by the ECU, you keep your original ECU, it will then be programmed for a manual tranny, like magic....

 

Hello,

It was made and received very clear that I was only installing the engine. That's why earlier I asked if the ECM was on the engine itself, Toyota said it had to be reprogrammed for this replacement engine as it is programmed for an auto trans so it must be reprogrammed for my manual trans.

Any idea what toque specs are for flywheel and pp?

Thanks

 

So let me get this straight...you pulled your old engine rather than change out a head gasket, and now you are trying to dump the engine you didn't want to fix on someone else?

Let me know how the clutch works on a crankshaft without the pilot bearing hole.

Howard

 

Hetkind: If you read the entire post it may be understandable (I purchased a 2011 engine very cheap). I am "dumping" the engine with full discloser and pricing it accordingly so someone else can fix it, also written in this post.

The crankshafts are identical, both engines are out sitting side by side. Furthermore there is no pilot bearing in my original engine or pilot shaft on the trans, just splines for the clutch disk. Are you stating Toyota manufactured two different engine cranks, one for manuals and one for automatics? That would be hilarious.

 

Some sensors are Microcontrolers (as opposed to simple volt/ohm/on/off) type those will not work with computer unless programmed.
Its almost like TPMS sensors. you can install them from another truck but they will not work on yours with out reprogramming.
On the side note if you swapping just engine the only items I think may give you trouble is that VVTI setup.

 

Yes, I have seen MANY manufactures make cranks with drilled crankshafts for pilot bearings for manual transmission vehicles and undrilled crankshafts for automatic transmissions...do enough swaps and you will get surprised.

After trying to make the wrong engine fit one too many times, I try to rebuild/repair the existing engine before swaps. The last time I converted a vehicle from automatic to manual, it was far more work than just a bolting and unbolting...and the reason that motor had to go was pear shaped cylinders and a outdated, unmainable transmission that has the only vehicle parking function was a drum brake on the REAR of the push button trans.

Once the motor is out, why don't you swap out head gaskets and sell is a good running motor? a few hours and a gasket kit should be well worth it.

I was trained as a heavy mechanic 30 years ago and still try to keep my skills up. I went from three dead truck in my yard to a single non-running 4Runner. I got two new test lights today to try the tap test to see if the ingitor is good before buying parts.

Howard

 

Hetkind,

Thanks for your reply. The reason for not fixing this engine for me is right now I know it runs good, no smoke, smooth, etc. I know the head gasket is probably the reason for the misfire 6 code, but i'm not 100% sure. I would much rather sell it "as-is" and let someone else perform the repairs because I do not want the responsibility of making sure the timing components, etc. all go back consider this is if I could install it in a vehicle and make certain it runs correctly, right now that is not an option. I truly hope someone can fix it cheap, and have a great runner, and feel they made a great buy/stole it from me.

Damon

 

Best of luck on the job, let us know how it goes...and keep good notes for the next guy!

Howard

 

back in my heavy wrenching days, the cranks were the same, only difference was the pilot bushing, automatic no pilot bushing, manual, pilot bushing....easy to insert with wooden block and a few wacks...

 

Hello everyone,

Just came in a few minutes ago, truck is done and it fired right up, appears to truly be a plug n play. I have not driven it yet, will do so tomorrow and then offer a final report.

Fairly straight forward swap, about the only advice I would give is take the 2 hours or so necessary to unplug and mark everything AND take your time with the drivers side components: Toyota crammed the starter, Alt. and AC compressor all on this side. You need to have the starter set into place when the engine goes in (I hope it never fails and I have a lift).

I lowered the engine in the bay about half way (1' from the mounts) and plugged in some device that is mounted to the block and sits between the AC compressor (and Block) then I installed the AC compressor. Next I set the engine in place, tightened the mounts, and starter, then installed the alternator last.

The pass side is a breeze, tons of room to work since it only has the power steering pump.

Thanks again for all the input everyone.

Damon