Engine temp running hot

I will politely disagree in checking a fan clutch. When engine is at normal operating temp, the fan will be harder to turn but nowhere near impossible to turn.

I'm 67 years old with a bad back and no longer work on my own vehicles. I currently have an honest mechanic doing most of my work. My disagreement is from past experience correcting over heating issues and also assuming fan clutch technology hasn't changed in the past few years.

 

Objection dully noted but properly running clutch fan at full temp is almost impossible to turn. (like trying to turn big spoon in honey jar)
So its possible to turn or move .... but barely. That is at full temperature had been driving for a while with AC ON and temp outside like 90F.)
At 32F you should be able to freely spin that thing.
Those who live in warmer climates can replace viscous fluid with higher grade one to have clutch engage more in lower temperatures.

 

I just had a similar problem and I was in the texas heat also at a stop light on a 7 1/2 hour trip going back home from school. My motor was fine while driving but it got hot while stopped and it was the fan clutch going out. I guess it would work sometimes because I would let it idle to see if it would start getting hot once i got home and it was fine but I replaced the fan clutch and no problems since. It could also be your radiator. Usually if its the thermostat or water pump then it would be hot all the time

 

I just checked the fan clutch in my Tacoma after driving about 10 miles. Right after turning the engine off I had no problem turning the fan with my little finger. In the past a fan clutch as difficult to turn as you describe can also be bad, just the reverse, actually spinning the fan faster than necessary.

Never knew the fluid could be changed. Is it a Toyota thing or apply to all vehicles? I know on the ones I replaced there were signs where the fluid had been leaking. The fix was replacing the fan clutch as there was no way to add or replace fluid.
I'm old and don't do much work myself on my vehicles any more, I'm out of date on a lot of the newer technology.

 

- How do I know if my fan clutch is working properly?

There are three ways to diagnose a bad fan clutch:

1- NOISE: Fan noise is sometimes evident under the following normal conditions: a- when clutch is engaged for maximum cooling, and b- during the first few minutes after start-up until the clutch can re-distribute the silicone fluid back to its normal disengaged operating condition after overnight settling; however, fan noise or an excessive roar will generally occur continuously under all high engine speed conditions ( 2500 rpm and up ) if the fan clutch assembly is locked up due to an internal failure. If the fan cannot be rotated by hand or there is a rough grating feel as the fan is turned, the clutch should be replaced.

2- LOOSENESS: Under various temperature conditions, there is a visible lateral movement that can be observed at the tip of the fan blade. This is a normal condition due to the type of bearing used. Approximately 1/4" maximum lateral movement measured at the fan tip is allowable depending on make and model. If the lateral movement exceeds the manufacturer's specifications, the fan clutch needs to be replaced.

3- SILICONE FLUID LEAK: The operation of the unit is generally not affected by small fluid leaks which may occur in the area around the bearing assembly. However, if the degree of leakage appears excessive, the fan clutch needs to be replaced.