Engine & Transmission Oil Question

Oh goody, another oil thread.

 

As I do with many oil threads.....I'll just leave this here.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

 

Change the engine oil and diffs early - yes, no problem there. Then change engine oil at the normal interval. Front diff will not need to be changed for a long time if changed early, change the rear at 20-30K again after the first early change and you should be good for a LONG TIME.

One change of the TC to synthetic and probably good for life!

The tranny is AT or MT? MT change because shifting will be 10000000% better, AT, let factory fluid go for a long time. Then flush and fill. Good for life.

 

I respect your opinion.

But synthetic oils aren't made from magical fairy piss. On average they are superior to conventionals in a couple of key areas....though the line is blurred a bit these days as conventionals are light years ahead of what they used to be. But they can't prevent 100% of wear 100% of the time.

They won't prevent your engine from breaking in. If that were the case, the TGMO 0/20 that's in it now....and doesn't call for a change until 10k miles, would not allow it to properly break in.

Besides, the OP couldn't use the recommended 0/20 viscosity....as no conventional 0/20 exist that I'm aware of. Certainly wouldn't hurt to move to a 5/20 or 5/30 viscosity....and those are available in conventional. But there's really no need

 

I drain my oil out every night and run it through my coffee maker in the morning before putting it back in. The coffee filter catches any impurities from driving it the day before and pre-warms the oil so it's easier on the engine when it starts up.

 

Exactly. Not to mention there is no regulation related to calling a product a synthetic. In other words, not all synthetics are 100% synthetic.

Then how do you explain vehicles that come from factory with synthetic?

 

2 micron filter for oil......not needed. The clearances in the oil passages and journal gaps are magnitudes larger.

You can run either dino or syn oil.....doesn't really matter. Both are good, they can even be switched.

Follow the change intervals in the Owner's Manual (OM). If you want to do a "break in" change, then go ahead it won't hurt anything. There maybe a minuscule advantage. Biggest impact will be on your wallet.

The OM will have the recommended oil viscosity and minimum API grades to use in your truck. No need to go beyond.

In the end, it is your choice. Will it help the truck last longer.? ......debatable and maybe. Reality, an accident totalling the truck is more likely.

 

Stick to the Toyota bible for service intervals and use quality products. I prefer Amsoil myself. No need to go overboard unless you fall under severe service. Welcome!

 

Freakin' genius

 

Don’t listen to all the haters talking you out if this. I applaud your approach.

Please photo or video document the entire process, including your set up.

 

Good night irene..........

The term "haters" is used to degrade anything that doesn't agree with the original premise or proposal.

The bulk of these posts are not "hating" on the OP. The posts are just detailing the OP's proposal is unnecessary.

 

Add a catch can too if you want your engine and valves to be clean!
Look up oil catch cans, some of them can be $150...don't spend that much. Amazon has oil catch cans for around $30.

 

Real logic in changing differential lube early.

The rest is pretty much feel good stuff. And listen, I sell Amsoil! Not that it makes me an expert*, but no need to buy more than needed. (*well I do have my BS degree, but I'm retired from real work so that doesn't count haahahahahaha)

Do we even know if OP has MT or AT?

 

Oh look here, another person with the utter lack of ability to detect gentle sarcasm.

What the fuck, I'm feeling playful this morning....

I think two pages of mixed comments (strike that - opinions) on top of innumerable dumpster fire threads about oil change frequency is unnecessary. These posts are in general repetitive to the point of being comical, and most are not factual, they are based on personal preference and opinion.

In the meantime, while you practice your sarcasm detection skills, please do not cock block my anticipated viewing of the detailed bench bypass filtration the OP is teasing us with.

 

I see a lot of follow the manual but also change the diff oil early...…….. why is that?

 

I think this is overkill. Sometimes too much tinkering can cause more harm than good. And we may have proof in this forum. One accident or mistake and it will all be for nought.

That said, foreign material between 10-20 microns may do the most engine damage over time. Smaller particles can be carried in suspension in the oil.

And when it comes to filtration, efficiency is the key. However, the issue is that the more efficient the filtration, the less the flow. And dirty oil is better than no oil.

 

lolo! But please, please...

 

First world problem. Ask yourself how long Toyotas go in Africa or Middle East before anyone thinks about fluids? Answer is when the idiot light comes on! Then they add a quart or two of whatever jungle juice they can find. Maybe.

 

Easy trigger.......

FWIW, I'm not blocking you from doing anything......