Engine & Transmission Oil Question

lol liar...

 

Curious to know if toyota does this, while i know some manufactures run their engines on a dyno using mineral oil first for break-in. By the time the engine is installed, and the dealer receives it, it gets filled with a synthetic.
When i raced motocross and xc all my engines were broken in with a mineral oil first, or you'd never have a chance for proper ring seating. I've seen pistons with too much blow-by when someone used a synthetic.

 

Why.... I sell them!!! Yeah, that's right! I happen to have a special case of two micron filters out in the garage and I'm running a special this week... only $500 for each filter!

Seriously, the only thing that gets filtered down to that level is...nothing. Lol they filter at 4 micron to get out bacteria. They filter blood at 20 micron. The dude needs to read up on stuff...

 

Ferrari doesn't even recommend that strict of a maintenance schedule.

 

OP, honestly, if you follow the SCIENCE of oil, it is a complete waste of money and time to follow that regime. But if it makes you FEEL better. Have at it! That's why I drink, to make me FEEL better! It has nothing to do with the science of my health though!

 

Nope....they are filled one time at the factory. I might add that these engines aren't thrown together in some dirty old garage. These are clean state of the art facilities. The blocks and heads are machined in an environment that's damn near clinically clean

 

You can purify drinking water during the zombie apocalypse.....

 

Fine with me. I don't like additives in my oil anyway. Who needs 'em?

 

I know, even my engine builder had a special clean room all filtered air and humidity controlled from all the machining process when they built my bike and sled engines. It was cleaner than hospital operating rooms i've had the pleasure of using.

 

Pretty sure you can sell it on Amazon and get richer quick lol

But we need to be nice, respectful, helpful, understanding. Lots of miss-information out there both pro and con, so for me at least, I take the safe road, the tried and true.

While I have no doubt filters work as intended and oil protects to 10k, there are limitations most people may not take into account.
For instance, not all oil gets filtered at 100% all of the time.
There are by-pass valves to let oil go unfiltered for a reason. Also when the crankshaft is turning and churning/slinging the oil up cylinder walls, is it filtered? No micron filters there.
When it is -25*F outside and the oil real thick, (please don’t ask how I know lol!) it needs to be let thru quickly and maybe unfiltered if need be. If I have 5k fresh clean oil, I’m good.
At 10k, maybe not so much.

 

For the most part, those are HD Diesel engines.

 

Your killing that engine!

 

Please just stick to driving your train.

 

Then why do you say to change it at 5k instead of 10k like Toyota says?

 

Tell you what... Here is a factual post that should help everyone:

Rules of the Oil Change
Following the recommended OCI in the manual results in long life of vehicle.
Shorter OCI intervals will not decrease engine life.
Factory recommended oil viscosity results in long life of vehicle.
Brand of oil used is immaterial as engines do not fail because of brand.

That's it. Those are the facts. Anything else is opinion. Nobody knows if the 3.5 will run 200K longer because they run Amsoil and change the oil every thousand miles. They just don't. Look at that million mile Tundra. No break in changes, maintenance schedule in manual followed to a Tee. Heavy loads for a million miles. No additional preventative maintenance. That is also a fact and proof that the maintenance schedule in manual works. There have been many 200k+ Tacomas that have posted here and most follow the maintenance schedule. That is also fact.

Yet... people that must be smarter than the engineers who designed the truck seem to think their method and knowledge is superior, so they come to Tacomaworld to post about it. Amsoil...proof that marketing works.

And... lol... by your 5K and 10K logic... you really should change it every 1K miles to get the longestest life out of the engine!

 

I follow the 5k OCI in the manual because It works. I don’t follow 1k because I ran an experiment many years ago and it does not work. In fact the oil was so clean it was slipping past the valve guides. When I raised it to 3k, no more oil got burned or lost. But If it had been beneficial, I may be changing it if the cost/reward justified it. Case closed.

As far as being smarter than the engineers, when the first gen air bags first came out, I disabled it on my brand new Ford T-Bird I had just bought. Later, when they started killing people I was glad I had.
Does that make me smarter? No, that’s just made sense to me. Prove to me that it works and I’m all in.
When the more advanced air bags came out that deployed in stages, that made more sense to me and I had no problem. And yet, here we are, still killing, go figure. But I’m trusting they will eventually get it right because it’s what they do. And because they save more lives than they take.

Good talk

 

Dude your late to the party, look at all the posts.

 

Thanks for everyone’s responses. I read them all and take note and change what I do based on your experience. As someone who is new here I apologize for teeing this topic up to drag you through it again. I can appreciate the redundancy.

Here is additional information brought up in some of your responses.

• My truck is an automatic
• Yes, my plan includes air filter and PCV changes earlier than recommended
• 2 micron filters are available from Amsoil as a bypass filter
• I’m new to Amsoil after running my first 20 years with Mobil 1 and the last 10 years with Royal Purple
• I’ve always been finicky with my oils and find this newer extreme position will add only $100 a year to execute. I’m one of those guys who gets a peculiar sense of satisfaction when I cut the lawn and change my oil. I’ll admit that on quite a few occasions I’ve cut my lawn twice in a day, lol. All true.

 

it’s your wallet. Way overkill it’s not like you are breaking in an engine from the 1950s. Congrats on the 2021 Tacoma.

 

Geez buddy don't fall for the hype! I don't care how many times you cut the grass, logic is logic!
Google is your friend here man. From Chevron and countless other sites:

"Lubricant cleanliness, as we have pointed out frequently in our articles, is essential to lubricant performance. Abrasive particulate matter in lubricants can impair the reliable operation of machinery components, or worse, cause equipment failure. Oil filtration is commonly used to maintain oil cleanliness within ISO cleanliness code requirements. However, contrary to popular belief, there is a risk that too much filtration or the incorrect type of filtration can remove additives from lubricants, which in turn can affect the performance of the oil.
Additive packages are added to finished oil products for a reason, such as prevention of foaming or stabilizing viscosity. Most additives are chemicals that become solubilized in the oil and become immune to filtration during the manufacturing process. However, there are several types of additives that can affect filtration. Moreover, not all lubricants are formulated the same way. Different manufacturers may have different recipes and blending procedures for the same type of lubricant. Due to the variability between suppliers, quantities and types of additives, it’s not possible to have a standard filtration requirement for each lubricant type – for example, that all hydraulic oils can be filtered at the same level. The same is true when comparing different types of oil, such as hydraulic and gear oils. Most lubricant additives are solubilized in the oil and are usually less than half a micron in size. In some cases, they can adhere together, especially if water or contaminates are present, to form larger clumps that can be filtered out of the oil. Using a 15-micron size filter has usually proven effective in preventing excessive filtration. Very small pore-size filters below this level can remove additives out of some oils. The temperature at which oils are filtered can also affect how the additive will respond to filtration."

The Amsoil bypass and 2 micron is nothing but marketing to sell you shit you don't need. And, if that bypass filter decides to filter out the anti foam additive, which it could, you just screwed up your formulation and made it worse! Who do you believe... the little oil company who wants to sell you stuff or the Toyota engineers who make stuff to last...

Finally, there is a reason people who don't know shit don't design engines and stuff.
Do what you want. Your money.